1970 351 windsor horsepower - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Mod and Custom Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-18-2012, 04:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JJ 5821's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Flowery Branch GA
Posts: 114
Default 1970 351 windsor horsepower

i have a mach 1 with a 351 windsor 2 valve, 2 barrel carb, single exhaust. stock 250 hp. what are some enexpensive things to do to get more horsepower? it has a 4 speed manual tranny and the gears are not stock in the rear. they are like 276's, what gear ratio for rear diff?
JJ 5821 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-18-2012, 04:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Munising , Mich
Posts: 1,005
Send a message via Yahoo to mymachone
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ 5821 View Post
i have a mach 1 with a 351 windsor 2 valve, 2 barrel carb, single exhaust. stock 250 hp. what are some enexpensive things to do to get more horsepower? it has a 4 speed manual tranny and the gears are not stock in the rear. they are like 276's, what gear ratio for rear diff?
The best way to get some H.P is a new Edelbrock performer cam and intake set up , a good 650 cfm carb , a decent ignition set up and a decent air breathing set up , get a K& N filter opposed to a Standard paper filter.
You gain about 50+ H.P just in this small investment.
__________________
1969 Mach 1 , with American Eagle's 15"x8" 4.25 back space 235/60/R15 BF Goodrich tires
351W Massaged just a little with a mild cam and Edelbrock intake. Holly 650
1968 GMC step side short box
1967 Triumph 650 Tigar Twin Cycle
2007 Mustang
As Red Green Would Say. If It Ain't Broke , your not trying hard enough
Never give up the ship!

My Web Site
www.myclassicvehicals.webs.com
mymachone is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 05:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: NJ & PA
Posts: 11,277
Default

Agreed, dual exhaust, some sort of ignition upgrade, a Performer intake, not the RPM version and around 600 CFM. I like Edelbrock carbs. Easy to tune with there jet kit, they drive nice and they don't leak. One of the problems are the heads. Even though they have bigger intake ports and valves, the exhaust port is exactly the same size as a 289/302 and just don't really flow all that well. Maybe look for a set of GT40 heads, that would be a nice upgrade on a stock motor down the road.

Do you have AC? The rear gears are going to be tall to keep the compressor from exploding if it's still the old York reciprocating compressor. Most likely no lower then 3.00:1. What size rear tire and driving habits are going to be a big factor in gear selection.
__________________
Tom


Rehab is for quiters!

Huskinhano is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 06:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,044
Default

Regular Performer IMO is a waste, i would go Stealth or RPM. 650-750cfm, long tubes, 2-1/2" duals are a start.
__________________
Fitting 315's on the '66
Z06killinsbf is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 06:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,279
Default

I built a '69 2V 351W for daily driver use years ago. I installed an Edelbrock Performer intake, carb and camshaft. I also installed a Mallory Unilite distributor and Hooker Competition headers with dual exhaust. I couldn't believe what a difference it made!

I had an automatic and my rear was probably a 2:80. And that engine was still pretty mean. I don't know why you wouldn't go with the Performer RPM package. That wasn't around when I built my 351W. If it was, I would have used it.

With a 4-speed, you could get away with a little more cam. The Edelbrock performer cam is pretty mild. It's designed to work with a factory automatic/torque converter. You might take a look at the Lunati cams. They have a lot of very nice grinds for the street ready to go.

Do not forgo a cam upgrade for your build. It's the key to a significant boost in power. It makes everything else work much better.

If you want to get a little more involved, you could have the exhaust side of your heads ported. That shouldn't be very costly and it would really make a big difference on a 351W. You should also confirm what rear gear you're running. I think you could run 3:50 gear with no problems.
Klutch is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 08:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Just some guy
 
GypsyR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SC foothills, USA
Posts: 12,527
Default

First thing I'd do is get some long-tube headers and a free-flowing exhaust. You think of an engine as a big air pump. Sort of. Useless to have big carbs and intakes and such breathing in if it can't breathe out. All things being equal, you might even get a "seat of the pants" feel of more power. Plus a tad bit better gas mileage, win-win. I have experienced both. A big bonus will be that it will at least SOUND more powerful.
My preference is long-tube headers, they can be a bit of a pain though. You might opt for shorty's, tri-y's, even "hi-po" manifolds. Any would be an improvement.
GypsyR is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 09:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Bucket Lister's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 1,902
Default

Young fella, I don't think anybody noticed the word "enexpensive" in your post. Unfortunately, horsepower is very expensive. If you have a very limited budget, the best horsepower gains would be in tuning and maintenance. First, give the engine a 100,000 mile tune up. PLugs, wires, K&N airfilter, a serious carb rebuild, good tires, brakes all around. New shocks and steering components. New hoses and V-belts.
First upgrade? A Pertronix ignition in your distributor. Second? 2" dual exhaust. Find a decent local exhaust shop and have them do it. Stay away from the big chains. As your budget grows, you can get into the more expensive stuff like heads, cams, intakes, headers, etc.
There is no one single upgrade that will make your car an instant boulevard screamer. The drivetrain works as a system that must be balanced to get full performance out any one upgrade. If all you did was to install a bigger cam, you wouldn't get your money's worth. It might even run slower.
Drive it stock and lay plans for a swap engine/trans.
Bucket Lister is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
jdub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,638
Default

Don't be afraid to buy used. There's good deals to be had.
jdub is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskinhano View Post
Agreed, dual exhaust, some sort of ignition upgrade, a Performer intake, not the RPM version and around 600 CFM. I like Edelbrock carbs. Easy to tune with there jet kit, they drive nice and they don't leak. One of the problems are the heads. Even though they have bigger intake ports and valves, the exhaust port is exactly the same size as a 289/302 and just don't really flow all that well. Maybe look for a set of GT40 heads, that would be a nice upgrade on a stock motor down the road.

Do you have AC? The rear gears are going to be tall to keep the compressor from exploding if it's still the old York reciprocating compressor. Most likely no lower then 3.00:1. What size rear tire and driving habits are going to be a big factor in gear selection.
What's wrong with the rpm series I have a rpm air gap? Are they bad news
Hookedup12 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 09:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Bucket Lister's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 1,902
Default

An few things to add.
If your engine has a lot of miles, your entire valve train is worn out. Alot of "lost" horsepower can be regained by having your stock heads rebuilt. A good valve grind and new valve guides can give you back as much as 50 HP. Also worn out is your timing set, lifters cam followers(tappets), rockers, springs, pushrods, camshaft, fuel pump. These are the things that wear and turn a new engine into a tired, old engine.
With the heads off, you can look around for a 4-barrel carb and intake and mid-range cam.
Bucket Lister is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 10:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: NJ & PA
Posts: 11,277
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hookedup12 View Post
What's wrong with the rpm series I have a rpm air gap? Are they bad news
No they're not. IMO as Gypsy said, the engine is nothing more then an air pump. With the stock cam and heads, it's not going to be moving enough air/fuel to make them worth while. Generally to increase low end torque which is exactly what we drive and makes the car move out and feel peppy, you make the inlet track longer and smaller in diameter to speed up the mixture to pack the chambers. At higher RPM, it becomes a restriction and you need shorter, larger diameter runners to move the mixture. Using a runner designed for higher RPM is going to make the engine feel lazy because it just can't pack the chamber as well as the smaller, longer runner.

Chrysler used this trick back in the early 60's on their cross ram 413's and 426's. The street version had one bank that was tuned for low end torque with longer, smaller diameter runners and the other were high speed. This gave the engine 2 torque peaks and a broader power range.

I wish I save the article or find it on line some place but I can't. About 10 years ago MM&FF were testing Edelbrock Air Gap and Performer RPM on a built 302 race motor. I don't recall exactly the HP they make but it was around the 425 HP range, both manifolds were pretty close. After they were done just for the fun of it, they stuck on a Performer 289 that every one says is junk. On this 425 HP 302, they made 400 HP. While they took a 25 HP hit what was really amazing was this junk Performer 289 made more power then the Performer RPM and Air Gap up to 5000 RPM.

So what manifold do you want on a street motor that pretty much stays below 5000 RPM? Keep in mind too that motor like the BOSS 302 with huge intake ports were dogs at low RPM and many times engine builders filled the intake ports with epoxy to make them smaller. It's a matter of matching parts for the real intended use not fancy race names.



Chrysler 413
__________________
Tom


Rehab is for quiters!

Huskinhano is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-19-2012, 09:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JJ 5821's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Flowery Branch GA
Posts: 114
Default

thank you all for your input. it is very much appreciated.
JJ 5821 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.