Just received a set of stainless headers listed on ebay for $249.95 with free shipping and thought I would share since I'm sure there are plenty of members curious of the extremely reasonable price. They are listed as Procomp PC5061 headers for small block ford. The headers were delivered in five days. here's what I found since I couldn't find any info online. The headers look great, just like the picture. They include stainless bolts for mounting to the engine and collectors. Composition, decent quality gaskets are also included (I intend to use copper gaskets instead). The welding appears to be a decent quality. The collectors are 3" and neck down to 2 1/4". the header flanges are 3/8" thick and I'm eyeballing the tubes at 18 gauge stainless. The only drawback so far (it will be a few weeks till they are installed) is the flanges do not appear to be stainless. They have the same coloration but don't have the grain of stainless and are magnetic. At this point I am unsure of the corrosion resistance of the flanges but overall they still seem to offer a great value. I'll let you know how they fit.
I bought the stainless 65 long tubes for like 229... Fit and finish is AMAZING. They bolted RIGHT in w/ zero headaches, look awesome, sound great and were worth every penny. One of the very few projects on this whole car that were trouble free.
__________________ The beatings will continue until morale improves!
One Man, One Arm, One Car...
(and one laptop to Google "How-To everything"...
1965 Fastback which I restomodded/murdered in my garage...
You typically don't want stainless flanges due to it's rate of expansion. You'll forever be tightening the header bolts. 304 Stainless(which is what almost all affordable headers are made from) elongates as it's heated in comparison to alloys with lower coefficient of expansion such as carbon steel or a stabilized stainless such as 321(which uses titanium as the stabilizing alloy). Problem with 321 is price, as it's 4-5 times as expensive as 304. FWIW, even a 304 stainless flange pair alone would run close to $150, so you can see another reason why your set wouldn't get them. Don't worry, you're better off with the carbon steel for a driver.
Here's a trick I learned when I started fabricating turbo system components out of stainless 10-12 years ago. Before you run the engine, spray WD40 on the entire header set, let it soak in, then wipe off the residual. When the engine is run, the headers will take that golden hue that stainless is famous for.
You typically don't want stainless flanges due to it's rate of expansion. You'll forever be tightening the header bolts............"
...and this is why you don't want to use those shiny stainless header bolts either. They loosen too easily if you tighten them correctly, and are terrible at galling if you over tighten. Get some black oxide coated bolts and you will be happier.
Does anyone know if these work with the cable clutch conversion?
__________________
64.5 Coupe (owned since 1998)
302 / T5, 9inch Rear 3:50 Traction Lok, Shelby style glass packs, Granada Disk, Full MSD Set Up, Nightmist Blue
GT Wanna Be
You typically don't want stainless flanges due to it's rate of expansion. You'll forever be tightening the header bolts. 304 Stainless(which is what almost all affordable headers are made from) elongates as it's heated in comparison to alloys with lower coefficient of expansion such as carbon steel or a stabilized stainless such as 321(which uses titanium as the stabilizing alloy). Problem with 321 is price, as it's 4-5 times as expensive as 304. FWIW, even a 304 stainless flange pair alone would run close to $150, so you can see another reason why your set wouldn't get them. Don't worry, you're better off with the carbon steel for a driver.
Here's a trick I learned when I started fabricating turbo system components out of stainless 10-12 years ago. Before you run the engine, spray WD40 on the entire header set, let it soak in, then wipe off the residual. When the engine is run, the headers will take that golden hue that stainless is famous for.
Any updates on the corrosion of the flange with the stainless ? I am looking at picking up a set too.
Seems they, make a ceramic coated version now also . Anyone have those ?
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1989 Coupe Black X41 code 2200 original miles
1984 GT350 Turbo T-top #1978
1984 Turbo GT 418rwhp 4 banger
1966 Coupe black on black TW headed 302, AOD, 8.8 , Bullitts, Cobra brakes, Cowl hood. New project and usually giving advise, not used feeling like an idiot newbie
Progress pictures ;
http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z253/GT350RR/66%20coupe/
...and this is why you don't want to use those shiny stainless header bolts either. They loosen too easily if you tighten them correctly, and are terrible at galling if you over tighten. Get some black oxide coated bolts and you will be happier.
I've used ARP stainless header bolts for years and have never had one of them gall, even in aluminum heads. The trick is to use a dab of anti seize on the threads. Tighten them down when you first install and check them after the first couple of heat cycles. You should be under the hood checking things out at least once a month anyway, so just add header bolts to your list. Or you can get ARP stainless header bolts with that are drilled for a lock wire and never have to look at them again. There are also locking washers of various types if you want to go that route.
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John
'97 TBird project. AED supercharger, forged bottom end. Runs high 11's, when it runs.
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Stainless headers, ebay
