Adjustable Strut Rods - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Adjustable Strut Rods

Hey guys.

Thought i would share what i did this weekend. I read this article on Daze Cars and thought i would make myself a set of adjustable strut rods. I decided to machine my own clevis but used all the ingredients posted. If i had to do it again, I would have went with shorter swagged bars so i could clamp them in my lathe easier.
Here is the article from Daze Cars: DazeCars, Home Made Mustang Adjustable Strut Rods


A shot of the pair.


The finished clevis



The original strut rods modified to fit in the swagged bar.

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 01:37 PM
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Very nice! These are next on my list of "Things to get off my *** and fabricate".
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 01:53 PM
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Looking good!
The only thing I would change is the bolt through the clevis so that there are no threads in the grip. It's a military spec. thing and I think is very important especially on suspension and steering components

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 02:30 PM
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Nice job on the strut bars. The clevis is the part that makes these possible for the average hobbiest. If you have resources and time, you may be able to sell some of the clevis's. What about the concave washers? It looks like they might collapse when tightened up. Thanks for sharing.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input guys.

The concave washer is the stock washer that holds the original rubber mounts in place. I figured that they would be strong enough since the bracket themselves thinner than the washer. It would give it a bit of locking in my opinion by preloading the fastener. But I maybe wrong. That is why the locking spring is there.

The clevis is not easy to make. They look very simple but it took me 3hrs to machine them out.(cold rolled steel) I didnt have a very sharp bit though. I dont think i would like to sell these just in case one would fail in the field... These are plenty strong but there is always the chance.

65 Fastback C code
- Randals Rack
- T5 conversion
- R front bumper, Shelby hood, Pony interior
- Lincoln disc rear end w/pos 3.55 gears
- 620lbs front coil / 4 leaf rear springs w kyb all around / Shelby Drop / adjustable strut rods
- Air Conditioned
- Summer Daily driver!
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 03:34 PM
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Awesome clevis and I don't say that to just anyone! ;-) What did you make it from?

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Last edited by MustangChuck; 06-04-2012 at 03:38 PM.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 05:09 PM
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I hate talented people like you! Very nicely done. I just bought a set from Shaun.... as well as springs, sway bar and UCA.

Tom

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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The clevis is from solid 2" stock cold rolled steel. A bit hard to machine but very strong.

Cool. I just ordered a read sway bar and think i need to beef up the front... The stocker is 5/8" so maybe 1 1/8" in the front? do you think that is too much? Im running a 289 with some upgrades.

65 Fastback C code
- Randals Rack
- T5 conversion
- R front bumper, Shelby hood, Pony interior
- Lincoln disc rear end w/pos 3.55 gears
- 620lbs front coil / 4 leaf rear springs w kyb all around / Shelby Drop / adjustable strut rods
- Air Conditioned
- Summer Daily driver!
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 05:41 PM
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Repeating from what I have read on past posts from guys that actually road race. The 1.125" is too big, leave that for the BB cars. Do not run a rear bar! It can cause the rear to snap loose and swap ends. You need a rear bar more on coil springs then with leaf springs because the leafs do provide some amount of anti roll properties

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 06:11 PM
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I have an extra set of these that I had made for my K code but I ended up going TCP. If anyone is interested, send me a pm. Just looking for what I have in them which is very little.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T6CHAN View Post
Thanks for the input guys.

The clevis is not easy to make. They look very simple but it took me 3hrs to machine them out.(cold rolled steel) I didnt have a very sharp bit though. I dont think i would like to sell these just in case one would fail in the field... These are plenty strong but there is always the chance.
Is cold rolled steel that much harder to machine than hot rolled steel? Will I have trouble making a 5/8"-18 with a new tap and die set? Iím getting nervous about my upcoming project using cold rolled steel.

Thanks
Joe

Those look great btw.


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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 08:43 PM
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I made a set too. I used these clevises. I had to machine a bushing to fit over the shaft but that wasn't too hard.

REPLACEMENT 5/8-18 RIGHT HAND THREAD CLEVIS FOR AC425152 END LOAD RACK AND PINIONS
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguelito View Post
I made a set too. I used these clevises. I had to machine a bushing to fit over the shaft but that wasn't too hard.

REPLACEMENT 5/8-18 RIGHT HAND THREAD CLEVIS FOR AC425152 END LOAD RACK AND PINIONS
Got any pics?

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklebustn68 View Post
Is cold rolled steel that much harder to machine than hot rolled steel? Will I have trouble making a 5/8"-18 with a new tap and die set? Iím getting nervous about my upcoming project using cold rolled steel.

Thanks
Joe

Those look great btw.
It is going to be marginally harder. I have a lathe in my garage so it really helps. The stock struts are hot rolled and were way easier to machine than the cold rolled material for the clevis. I dont think hot rolled steel will be bad if you make it beefy enough.

It really helps to use a lathe to start your taps so they are bang on straight. And like i said, i would have gone with a 7" swagged bar vs a 10" in retrospect so when cutting down the strut rod you would have some room to grip. The Daze car guy is super cool and writes some awesome DYI but I question some of the practices like grinding the diameter down for threading and such. Its time consuming and never straight...

65 Fastback C code
- Randals Rack
- T5 conversion
- R front bumper, Shelby hood, Pony interior
- Lincoln disc rear end w/pos 3.55 gears
- 620lbs front coil / 4 leaf rear springs w kyb all around / Shelby Drop / adjustable strut rods
- Air Conditioned
- Summer Daily driver!
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguelito View Post
I made a set too. I used these clevises. I had to machine a bushing to fit over the shaft but that wasn't too hard.

REPLACEMENT 5/8-18 RIGHT HAND THREAD CLEVIS FOR AC425152 END LOAD RACK AND PINIONS
How did you mount this to the frame?

65 Fastback C code
- Randals Rack
- T5 conversion
- R front bumper, Shelby hood, Pony interior
- Lincoln disc rear end w/pos 3.55 gears
- 620lbs front coil / 4 leaf rear springs w kyb all around / Shelby Drop / adjustable strut rods
- Air Conditioned
- Summer Daily driver!
T6CHAN is offline  
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