In the $500 range for me it would probably be something suspension/chassis related. Tubular UCAs or LCAs, or adjustable strut rods, or TCPs Export/Monte Carlo brace, or adjustable rear sway. Along the lines of your billet hood hinges, I like the Ringbrothers billet door handles.
I'd get the drake rally-pack. I really like these things, but can't justify the $$ for a clock and tach!
I really like the rally pack too, but feel the same way you do. I found a neat little tach from JCW that kinda resembles a rally pack tach. I like it since it looks old school, instead of like the other stuff at most of the parts stores. Its SKU Number: 1JA 144786 Manufacturer Number: 1235. I used a green Autometer bulb cover so it matches my other gauges better.
I would buy a radiator and get mine going again. I hate being broke and having other priorities.
1965 Fastback-Scat 331, Dart heads, FPA headers, Air Gap intake, 650 Ultra DP, Cobra pan, Lunati VooDoo cam 61003, C-4, 10 inch converter, Reverse manual valve body,Detroit Truetracw/3.50s, subframe connectors.
1968 S-code Torino Fastback= project
1966 A-code Mustang coupe=Basket case not sure what to do with it used some parts for the fastback.
I would buy a welder and some scrap with which to learn and practice. I have things on the car that need to be fixed and some recent paid-for body work that needs to be corrected.
You will absolutely love having a mig welder! Its like caulking with metal once you get the penetration issue understood (e.g. no cold welds). Metal is so cheap! I did my entire watts link for about $28 in metal, my subframe connecters were under $26, hydraulic clutch mount free (scrap pile metal)... Assembly kits also save $$$ - Roller spring perches $15, Roller LCA $99... It will pay for itself and I really enjoy welding.
I keep a bucket of old wrenches I got at a swap meet for $5. If you have a bolt you can't reach, cut up a wrench and weld it the way you need it. Sockets too - like welding a 1/2" drive socket to an old scissor jack so you can raise and lower components with a air wrench. They open up an entire new world. I like to pick up old bed frames, you can build structures like a cart for your welder and bottle for peanuts.
You also do not need an expensive one - I have been using a 110V Hobart 140 handler for 20 years and have yet to come across anything I could not weld. Great for body work. I probably would not do a roll bar though. Keep an eye on Craigslist - Don't scrimp on the gas - the flux coated wire sucks!
Body work is tough and requires lots of practice and techniques to keep from warping but its definitely doable. Spend some time on You Tube - every technique is there...
You will need a 4" grinder to pretty things up, cut steel and cover mistakes. Also a cordless sawzall is a great thing. I also spent $40 on an self-dimming helmet which is very nice. I actually really enjoy welding all the metal cutting and grinding etc can be grueling.
Last edited by dobrostang; 06-09-2012 at 11:10 AM.
I bought a nice Lincoln electric weld pak 100 mig a few months ago for $475 on craigslist with cart / several magnetic clamps / full tall gas bottle and lots of welding wire to do my own floopans. A buddy helped me weld my floorpans in and taught me along the way. I used it to make my fox body stang seat rails work how I wanted them to with out the seat risers. The metal I bought from a tractor supply isn't cheap though. Where do you get scrap metal from and how did you do your subframe connectors ??
Ford True Blue paint, 17X8 Edelbrock 454 wheels, waiting to install AOD/2,800 rpm stall / 8.8 rear with 373 gears / 4 wheel disc brakes. / Xpipe, Dynomax Ultraflows . More pictures here-->http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...-few-pics.html
2013 SHO Performance Package tuned by Livernois Motorsports