My build - Page 9 - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Mod and Custom Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 02-18-2013, 12:14 PM   #121 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Greg'66 5.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ledyard, CT
Posts: 1,841
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by txtrailerdaddy1 View Post
Greg, I think I saw in your pic of parts that you got the trickflow EFI intake. I'm curious if that A) Gives you more clearance above the valve covers as I put the poly locks on and they don't like stock covers, and B) gives you enough clearance to put the stock shock supports in. If you have a stock combover style intake could you do some rough comparisons for me? Check height and that rear driverside corner in relation to the stock.
I haven't put the engine together yet so I don't know what kind of extra clearance it might have for valve covers. I do have the stock intake manifold. When I get a chance I'll pull them both out and take some measurements.

I did not particularly care for the style of the trick flow valve covers so I bought a set that I liked. They are taller than the the Trick Flow covers and I think the description said that "minor" work is required to clear the upper intake manifold. I'll find out soon enough!

I won't be able to provide any info for shock support clearance since I do not have shock towers anymore. I'll have no trouble at all getting my little engine into that cavern under the hood!

One thing you can do to get more clearance to the valve covers is put a phenolic spacer between the lower & upper intake manifolds. It's basically a piece of plastic that's the same pattern as the flange, but it raises the upper intake about 1/2". That's how I am planning to solve any major clearance issues. The only thing to be careful of when using one of those spacers is to make sure you have enough clearance to the hood since you effectively make the engine 1/2" taller. I think I have seen them available in just about every popular intake manifold pattern (stock, GT-40, and Trick Flow).
__________________
'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC

'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd2caa40.jpg

Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 02-18-2013 at 05:14 PM.
Greg'66 5.0 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-18-2013, 01:04 PM   #122 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

Yes summit has a 3/8 and 1 inch phenolic spacer. Then you need valve cover spacers as well. If the driver rear corner is diagonally shorter about an inch or so then the braces should work. Eventually going with the Shelby hood so height will be ok then.

On another note got the fuel rail on this morning and she purrs like an angry cat. I love it. Can't wait to wear out some tires.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2013, 07:00 PM   #123 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

i got the Dakota digital gauges hooked up. They are mostly working. Still have to tie in and calibrate the VSS and figure out why temp and fuel gauge arent working. Im pretty sure its just one of the connections into the bus board as I didnt strip a whole lot of wire and the contact may be on the insulation. Also got the B&M shifter mounted. We mounted it further back so its more anatomically correct for shifting. The cable they send with it is WAAAAY to long, so I gotta get a shorter one. Still got a few bugs to work out of the engine. Since a lot of its used, I don't really know the condition of everything. I had cylinder 2 and 4 running a LOT cooler than the other 6. when I pulled the wire to the injector the car stumbled, so I'm thinking I may have a dirty injector, or maybe a lifter that didn't pump all the way up, not real sure yet. We let it run long enough for the electric fans to kick in. It ran good, but had some surging. Maybe the computer just needs to adjust, I dunno. At any rate I'm really excited. I'll probably bring it home this week. if Its shifting good, then I twill be time to get the exhaust done and then go back into full blown reassembly.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2013, 11:17 PM   #124 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
MustangChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 985
Default

Man, making progress! Cool! Keep it up!

Chuck
__________________
http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/imag..._large.jpg?v=1

Check out Popular Hot Rodding, Aug 2009, Pg 35, upper right corner!

My budget makes a shoe-string budget look like Warren Buffett's personal checking account.

1969 Mustang Fastback (work in progress)
(Pics Gallery) (Video)
1995 Mustang GT Convertible (daily driver)
1994 Mustang GT Coupe (donor car)
MustangChuck is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-19-2013, 12:02 AM   #125 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Greg'66 5.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ledyard, CT
Posts: 1,841
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by txtrailerdaddy1 View Post
Greg, I think I saw in your pic of parts that you got the trickflow EFI intake. I'm curious if that A) Gives you more clearance above the valve covers as I put the poly locks on and they don't like stock covers, and B) gives you enough clearance to put the stock shock supports in. If you have a stock combover style intake could you do some rough comparisons for me? Check height and that rear driverside corner in relation to the stock.
Here's some shots of the intake manifolds. It looks like the Trick Flow manifold has about 3/8" more clearance underneath, which gives more room for valve covers. On the top end, it looks about the same as the stock manifold for overall height, but the driver's side rear corner is significantly higher. If you are looking for clearance to the export brace (shock tower braces), you could switch over to tubing and heim joints instead of using the stamped steel pieces. I've seen that done before and it seems to work fine.






__________________
'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC

'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd2caa40.jpg
Greg'66 5.0 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-19-2013, 01:00 AM   #126 (permalink)
Member
 
jahearne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 42
Default

This post is an inspiration when it comes time to upgrade our '66. So far I've collected a '93 5.0, Silverfox AOD, crossmember, stall converter, Borgenson power steering, MustangSteve powerbrakes, Ron Morrison fuel kit, Off-road accessory drive kit and automatic console/shifter. A few more parts to round up... Unfortunately, no word from RJM wiring yet.

Thanks,
__________________
John

'66 Fastback
'67 Ranchero

jahearne is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-19-2013, 08:08 AM   #127 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

RJM makes great products but completely worthless at responding. I cancelled my order and went with a company called QAS he had them in stock, and its an RJM harness. It seems most of the harnesses for this you find aftermarket are RJM. QAS was even cheaper than buying direct from RJM. I'm so jealous of your silverfox AOD. Im gonna have to build my own, with silverfox's kit. What is that off road accessory drive kit? I see you got the ron Morris fuel kit.... not sure what that entails. I originally intended to go with the fuel pump on the rail and I have a fuel sender with the second tube in it. I am looking to sell it, it you don't have that, and need it.

Greg, as always, you are the man. That 3/8 extra clearence would be nice, but not necessarily worth the 450 for a trickflow upper intake, for me.guess I'll do the phenolic spacer, and the helm joints for the braces.

I need to do a much better update with pics. Mounting of the fuses/relays for the rjm, the really clean job that lance did for my fan and the relay and temp switch set up for it, the Fuel lines, and so much more.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html

Last edited by txtrailerdaddy1; 02-19-2013 at 08:15 AM.
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-19-2013, 08:49 PM   #128 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cibolo,TX
Posts: 718
Default

Thanks for the kind words Ed,wiring is "my thing" I guess (I'm an Aircraft Electrician at night) . The fan control set up in your car is the same I'm running and has been trouble free for over 8000 miles now. As I said when we talked my car will idle at 190 in the summer with the AC on with those fans. Your fans fit your radiator much better than mine do to,BTW that rad is a very nice piece in your car.
cyclone03 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-19-2013, 11:33 PM   #129 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

Oh, hey Lance! Glad to see you on here. While my car is a restomod, the overall "theme" I wanted to go for was to pop the hood, and have people wonder if maybe this was an option in 1967. You guys have really done that. It's also very comforting for me to see just how knowledgeable you are, in action. I know I've spent hours scratching my head wondering where I was going to mount this or that. I also have a new appreciation for people like James W who manage to make their engine compartment look like it's "wireless". I'd like to know where he put all that stuff, cause there is barely enough room to fit what I got in mine, much less completely hide it.

I'm feeling reinvigorated now. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I know I got a lot to do yet, but I will be able to enjoy the car for a bit, before I have to bite into all that other stuff.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-21-2013, 04:59 PM   #130 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cibolo,TX
Posts: 718
Default

As for "wireless" mine is "semi wireless" and that is a lot of work.
My goal on your car was for everything to look "in place" nothing just run here or there because the wires reached. Our hands where tied on the placement of some parts because they were preterminated but it the end it will all look good and work well,but most importantly be trouble free.
BTW all the AC parts are in,after I do a leak check it will be ready for serviceing.
cyclone03 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-21-2013, 10:55 PM   #131 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

Awesome news. I got the 1/0 and 4 gauge battery cable in yesterday. Man that stuff is THICK. I mean I'm an electrician, and I know wire sizes, but I guess I never thought about how big it would be. Shouldn't have any voltage drop issues with the battery in the trunk. I need to find a good battery box. I'll probably switch to an optima battery so I don't need to worry about venting. Looks like I'll be bringing it back home this weekend. I got the new shift cable on the way in now. Hoping the transmission doesn't give me any grief. Need to get a pressure gauge to set the TV cable up also. Once that is in I can try out the AOD. I'm ready to start ironing out the wrinkles.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-25-2013, 07:43 PM   #132 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

I tried to get the VHX gauges working today. Seems like it has a communications error. I called Dakota Digital. They ran me through a couple quick tests. Somethings not communicating. They are gonna get with the engineers and get back with me tomorrow, but indicated they will probably just send me new gauges. I still have some tuning to do. It starts right up but doesn't want to keep running until warmed up. Almost like a carbureted motor without the choke. Also smells like its running really rich. I imagine the computer needs to adjust, and it wont do that till I get it out on the road. I also think just having tips on the headers has something to do with it. So it's too early to tell. I'm also pretty sure I need to set the valve lash. I hear a few cylinders popping. Timing was set at 15 degrees. I adjusted it by ear cause it just didn't want to stay running. It's better now. I found the grommet in the brake booster is split, so I could be losing some vacuum there. I probably need to replace the PCV valve as well. I know surging is a common issue with these 5.0s. Guess I need to tackle one thing at a time. I also ordered new rotors, pads, wheel bearings and flex lines for the front brakes from CSRP today. Still waiting on UPS for my shifter cable and some terminals to relocate the battery. I also have a power steering line that pumps the fluid out faster than I can pour it in. I have to figure out why that wont seal.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-26-2013, 10:29 AM   #133 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
MustangChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 985
Default

If your headers are open just past the O2 sensor, then you are most likely getting extra clean air into the sensors, which will cause it to think it needs more gas. Once you have a full exhaust on the car, you should have better luck keeping it running. I am sure there will need to be time for the computer to relearn its settings.

If you still have hydraulic lifters, your valve lash should be 0. I believe you only need to worry about valve lash if you have solid lifters. If you changed the cam or rockers, you will want to make sure the pushrods are the correct length.

Chuck
__________________
http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/imag..._large.jpg?v=1

Check out Popular Hot Rodding, Aug 2009, Pg 35, upper right corner!

My budget makes a shoe-string budget look like Warren Buffett's personal checking account.

1969 Mustang Fastback (work in progress)
(Pics Gallery) (Video)
1995 Mustang GT Convertible (daily driver)
1994 Mustang GT Coupe (donor car)
MustangChuck is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-26-2013, 06:05 PM   #134 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

I didnt change the cam or lifters, but I did put in 1:6 ratio rockers on studs, so I have to adjust the lash. As far as pushrod length, I didnt change them either. The geometry on a few of the rockers were off so I know i need to change some of those. The fine tuning may take just as long as the major parts.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2013, 09:41 PM   #135 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 392
Send a message via Skype™ to txtrailerdaddy1
Default

Been a hard few days for me. Before I hook up my transmission shifter cable, I wanted to make sure I had brakes. One of the rotors had some big grooves in them, so I called CSRP and ordered new, rotors, flexible lines, bearings and brake pads. I got them in and figured I'd go knock them out. I go pull the driver side tire and something didnt look quite right. I call CSRP and it turns out, somewhere along the lines, someone converted to Granada brakes. So of all the parts I ordered, only the flex hoses will work. I try to crack the line loose and it just rounds the corners off the fitting. Then I think I'm gonna bleed the brakes. The bleeder screw wont budge. I had picked up one of those fancy little vacuum pumps, as I'd always wanted one. And it wont pull a vacuum. So, I decided that I'd had enough fun and called it quits. So, I drove to Austin the next day to trade out the rotors, bearings and pads. I also decide to pick up new calipers while I have everything apart. I had to replace the brake line on the driver side since I crushed the fitting getting the line apart. 2 trips to the parts store and 1 to the hardware store later, I had fabricated a replacement hard line. I pack the new bearings and get the new driver rotor all mounted up. It took a while, but I finally held my mouth the right way and the caliper went together. I had to call an old timer to come help me as I was unfamiliar with the little spring and slide clip set up. Go pull the passenger side tire and try to break the nut loose on the flex line and it looks like I will have the same fight. I don't think I can replace that whole hard line, so I soaked it with penetrating oil and I am going to see if I can find a flare wrench to get it apart. Worst case, I picked up a 3/16 compression connector, but would prefer to not have to do that. Maybe I can just cut the flare off and change out the fitting. Decided that's a job for tomorrow. Here's a pic of the driver side. Maybe I'll have time to get some pictures of everything tomorrow.
__________________
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/3864a0a4.jpg

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html

Last edited by txtrailerdaddy1; 03-07-2013 at 09:48 PM.
txtrailerdaddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.