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Old 07-13-2012, 12:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hey all! I have been chomping at the bit to post here. Had to get some things sorted on setting up an account. I used that time to try and read everything I could find on what I'm about to undertake. This will be a lengthy post and I hope I don't step on any toes. I recently bought a 1967 coupe. Body is in very good condition. I looked at tons of cars that had new engines etc but the body was rough. The lines on this one are all straight, little to no bondo and just some surface rust seems to be the worst of it. The previous owner had it painted, and they did a nice job, except they should have gone the extra step and taken care of those surface rust spots. No worries, I'll do that when I change colors. Now to the meat of my post. I intend to use this car as a daily driver. It currently has a 289 with C-4 auto and has power brakes. The 289 had a rotten pipe on the exhaust, I fixed that but its got a lot of other little nuisances. driver motor mount is busted, radiator leaks, although the car runs cool, tranny is leaking pretty good, etc. I bought the car right, and I've still got about $6-7k in my budget for it. I want to modernize it.

I'll go over the motor first. I found a donor 5.0 HO with AOD and fuel injection out of a 93 mustang. Guy said it had 80k miles and ran good. Me being the trusting soul that I am, decided to tear the motor down to be sure. The motor is clean. Very little sludge in the valley and while I didn't mike the cylinders, I can't hang a fingernail on the ridge at the top of the cylinder above where the first ring is and cylinders are not stamped so it's still standard bore. I didn't want to spend money on the heads, but I decided to have them redone. I have a local machine shop porting them and boring the intake to 1.94 and exhaust to 1.60 decking it and checking out the springs. They will also put plugs in the EGR ports for me. I am planning to leave the stock cam in it. Here's what I have left to do: I'm going to wash the block down with solvent and use a wire brush to clean off the carbon. Leaving the freeze plugs, they look fine. Drill the timing chain cover for the dipstick. My late model does not have that nice ledge that is shown in some of the other 5.0 EFI swaps, so not sure what to do unless there is a cover that will work with the serpentine belts that can be drilled. Smog pump had been deleted previously. I will pick up a block off plate from ebay or somewhere for the EGR. I got the timing chain, gasket kit, melling high volume pump, Pick up tube, Water pump, motor mounts from Advance Auto. I need to pick up an A9P computer, but advance sells them for about $90 compared to $250 on ebay. I have all the wiring harnesses for it. I have to get headers an exhaust system, Radiator, High Pressure fuel pump, fuel lines and the sending unit with return built in and an oilpan to complete my engine part of this build. For Exhaust, I would love to go with the JBA ceramic coated midpipe headers for a 5.0 swap, but those are close to $600. Summit has some ceramic coated shorties for $199. Then I was going to pick up 2 hedman starters with the O2 bungs in them already then follow that with a Flowmaster American thunder exhaust system but am open to suggestions (preferably with links). Not sure what size radiator I can put in there. May have to go with an electric fan. Any advice on where to get the fuel lines and in line pump are appreciated as well. On to the tranny.

I have not torn into the tranny yet. I see paint pen markings on the bell housing, so I want to assume its been rebuilt somewhat recently. I'm thinking I am going to drop the pan on the transmission and just look to see if there are any obvious signs of wear. metal sludge in the pan, etc. I ordered the AOD conversion crossbrace and the Lokar TV cable and a new transmission mount from PACT today. I plan to use the yoke from my C-4, along with the dipstick. Planning on using the stock shifter for now. I know I will need to shorten the drive shaft, will have that done locally. On to the suspension.

Stuart over at Steve's mustangs was really patient with all my questions and gave me some really solid advice on this (that reinforced what I had read here). I ordered 5 spring rears for standard ride height. He said to start there, cause I can go down with blocks, but really cant go back up. On the front I ordered new springs and upgraded upper shafts lower control arms bushings and a 1" sway bar. His suggestion was to take off 1" of spring and see how it rides. I'm putting the KYB gas-adjust shocks all the way around. The car currently tracks straight as an arrow, but I'm adding quite a bit of power and also want to add Power steering. I have a guy locally has a Power steering box out of a 67 with the center link that wants $75. It probably will need to be rebuilt. My new motor has a Power steering pump, so I would need the rag joint, new lines and to either cut down the current column or get a new collapsible one. I want the collapsible one anyway. So my debate, is should I just go ahead and get the borgeson kit for almost $1k. Also need to change out the shock tower braces since the stock ones will hit the EFI. Car has power disc brakes already and it stops pretty good now, but will evaluate those when I have it apart. I also ordered a pair of Tin Man subframe connectors.

Other things: I bought an american auto chasis wiring harness and will rewire the car. Found that on Ebay. I intend to put in A/C. I was on perpetual hold with Vintage air the other day. They are local to me so I may have to just go over there. Hoping I can use the current compressor, but I know it isnt R-134 and it get's REALLY hot here in Texas. I'm getting enough B-Quiet Mat to do the roof floor doors trunk and firewall of the car as well. I'm also ordering 3 point safety harnesses. I'd love to knock out the body while I'm at it, but it's passable right now. I know I will need interior and probably should put an alarm on it too. If you guys can think of anything I'm missing or if you have some suggestions please let me know. I'd post pics, just not sure how.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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upload your pics to photobucket or a photo hosting site then copy and paste the IMG links into your posts and they'll just show up.

I passed on a full AAW kit becasue they told me I couldn't run it on my 68 because I have factory a/c so I had my main dash harness rebuilt for $175 and it works perfectly now.

Sounds like your off to a good start. I have some good EFI black ribbed Ford Racing EFI valve covers I'll sell you for a good deal, and possibly my unused freshly rebuilt AOD if you choose to go that route. Let me know if you're interested (PM me).
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here are some of my answers to your questions:

There is a timing cover that /should/ work. I have not tried it (and probably won't use it). It is Ford M-6059-D351 and retails for around $150. I am dropping a 94 engine into my car and I don't believe that timing cover is compatible with my 94's water pump. I am planning to drill a hole in the passenger's side of the oil pan and feeding the dipstick through that. (Haven't done it yet, so no pictures or advice available.)

There are two really good Ford electric fans available. There is the 90-95 3.8L Taurus fan and the 95-00 V6 Contour fan. The Taurus fan is a single fan, dual speed. It has been reported by "reliable sources" (aka the Internet) to be strong enough to pull small children through the radiator. It is pretty tall and the electric motor sits about where the water pump is, so there may be some clearance issues. The Contour fan is a two fan, 1 speed each setup. It is also reported to have good CFMs. Since the fans are split, there are fewer water pump clearance issues reported with it. There are several controllers you can use. The one I am looking at is the TorqFlo (p/n 733647) adjustable controller from AutoZone. It currently retails for around $35.

For the engine block, you will need to plug the current dipstick hole. I got mine from NAPA -- 3/8" freeze plug, p/n 3812185. They currently retail for a massive $0.75 each. The heads can be plugged with 5/8"-11 3/4" long allen head set screws. Somewhere I had the Ford part number (got mine from Ace Hardware).

Be careful which steering gear box you get. There is a difference between the early and late 67's. The early ones have a very long spear-like shaft that runs up to the steering wheel. The later ones have a very short shaft to which the steering columns connects.

Welcome to the forums. Good luck with the project.

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Old 07-13-2012, 07:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I called Borgeson today and went ahead and ordered the steering box and all the other necessary parts to make it work. I was looking at brazing in the dipstick into the side of the oil pan, as well. I was at Advance auto today trying to see if a slightly older timing chain cover would work. the part numbers were all the same from 85-93. It changed in 94 but they didnt have a picture/drawing. I also ordered the Aluminum radiator from Summit today, pn# SUM-380479. Supposed to be a direct fit replacement and it has the auto trans cooler. I like having a liquid trans cooler as the thermal transfer is better from liquid to liquid than liquid to air. Thanks for that napa part number, I will pick one of those up for the dipstick. I should be ready to put all these parts together late next week or early the following week. The only thing I really don't have, at this point, is the computer, an accelerator cable and a way to attach it to the pedal, a new water pump, (work out the timing cover/dipstick issue), the A/C, and some other miscellaneous parts. I ordered some summit brand ceramic shorty headers (pn# SUM-G9070) and 2 magnaflow Ultra flow Welded mufflers. I think I will get the exhaust done locally. I bought some O2 bungs to weld into the pipes just after the headers. Can't wait to get going on the project.
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Slow down cowboy! Let me try to help you with a few derailments I see heading your way.
You said you ordered the Borgeson box. I understand that there are very few headers that fit with those. Don't throw out your Summit receipts and header box just yet. You might be returning them.
Did you get the radiator to fit the Fox water pump? Bottom hose is on a different side than the basic small block.
You have to stick to the fox timing chain cover, reverse rotation pump. There is room to drill it out. I did mine.
Ditch the HV oil pump. Unless you are running a deep sump pan, you can suck the pan dry. Stock Melling is just fine.
Don't mix and match the A/C parts. You might not have a properly working system when done. Classic Air or Vintage sell great systems that use a modern compressor that requires slight modifications to the serpentine mounts. If you try to use the Fox compressor and things don't work, you might have a hard time getting assistance from Classic or Vintage.

How much did you spend on those stock heads? Usually for a couple hundred more you can find a good set of used aluminum aftermarkets.
Glad to see you are really excited about this project. It keeps the hobby going with new blood in the mix.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I ordered Shorty headers, and spoke directly with borgeson about what I was doing. I think I could drop the steering box an inch if I had to for clearance. Everything I read said shorty's worked cause they were not much larger than stock.

I got the radiator with the inlet on the passenger top and outlet on the driver bottom. My motor is not a fox motor. It's from a 94. It does not have that flat ledge to drill out the timing chain cover. Its a lot thinner and on a curve.

I have read now, that there's an issue with the 94's and the shock towers on the driver side hitting the A/C compressor. There's very little on the work arounds for it. I see Rockitt relocated his to where the smog pump was but didn't indicate HOW he did it. The a/c uses 4 bolts to bolt into its bracket across the compressor. The smog pump used a bolt that was front to back. I need to check that bracket I have, as this motor had the smog pump removed, and I think the bracket might have been shaved some. I will look at it more in depth tomorrow. Worst case, I will look at changing out the accessory brackets to pre 94. I understand about mix/matching and I will talk with them about it. This compressor wouldn't be set up for R134A refrigerant so I need to see what the options are anyways.

As for the heads, I debated on that. Was advised to not really look at those aluminums that I could find for cheap. If it was used, they could have been overheated and warped. New and the quality was questionable. I paid $500 to have a reputable performance machine shop port and re-valve these heads to 1.94 intake and 1.60 exhaust. Sure they are a bit heavier but should work great. I felt that was a good bang for my buck. Edelbrocks were about $1k for their entry level. When I get them home, I will port match them to the intake and exhaust manifolds.
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sorry, didnt catch the year of your motor. Personally, I would just ditch the '94 serpentine and timing cover. You are right, cannot drill the SN-95 covers. And I wouldn't run the SN-95 FI system either. Way too pickey on cam choices. Theres only 3 cam I know of you can run without a tune. Stock, Steeda 19 and TF Stage 1.
I bought a set of TF Twisted Wedge at a swap meet for $600 with very low time on them from a guy upgrading to a big block. Secret to finding good Ford deal, go to a mostly Chevy swap meet!
Not sure about '94's, but '95's are 134a.
Check out Corral.net for good deals on serpentine systems off of a Fox.
If your interested, I have a few Fox serpentine systems I could swap you out for the SN stuff you have. I know I have the PS pump/pulley and bracket and I think I have the alt bracket too. Don't have any of the AC stuff or timing cover and pump though.
I am running (going to when it get running)the Fox serpentine system in my '66
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok, got an update. I hit the junkyards today. I had looked on ebay and found the serpentine brackets for all but the AC and it was going to run about $275 plus shipping. Then I needed the timing chain cover for about $160. Add to that that Im still needing a starter, MAF, ignition coil, cold air intake etc.... it was gonna add up. I walked into a parts yard and they had a 91 mustang LX. Motor still in the car and it was freshly rebuilt, all the gaskets are new. It was only missing the alternator and smog pump. I picked up the whole engine with the starter, cold air intake and even the radiator shroud. Now this opens another can of worms. This has the salt and pepper shaker connections and I have the complete harness from the 94..... so since I have to pair down wires anyway, do I follow the wiring diagram, and rewire. I can get the wire harness from the car for $100 but the did break some of the clips. I will still have to strip it down and make it work. But at least I can fit the motor in now. I also got the monte carlo shock tower bar from the car. I know it wont work, but I'm hoping I can use that as a platform to build the one for this car. Im hoping the Alternator from the 94 will bolt up. I will tear this one down to to confirm that its been rebuilt. I will use my heads from the 94 that are being revalved. This motor had stock headers so I wouldn't think there's been any mods like a cam etc. If they wanted that I would have expected to see more than just a K&N cold air intake. When all is said and done, I will put the 94 back together and try and sell it maybe recoup most of my money.
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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wow..... So I tear down the motor to see what I got and if it is actually a rebuilt motor. My first hint that their might be a problem when I noticed there was no dipstick hole on the driver side of the block. Then I pulled off the intake and no roller lifters. So, they got a shortblock and put the heads on it. It's not a total loss. I will take the parts I need and put it on my modern block and then sell the long block. I should recover most of the money I spent on the motor and I got all the extra parts. I'm going to call the salvage yard monday. They had a guarantee on the motor. It may have run, but it would have run like crap, without the roller cam, I suspect. I dont think I'll be too hard on them as I got everything I wanted and then some. But, I will see if they will give me the wiring harness to make up for the motor not being all it was supposed to be.
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:02 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Man, what a bummer on the block! But don't try to splice the '94 to the Fox harness. Get the complete harness out of the same car the motor came out of. Use the wrong block as a bargaining chip.
You can install the '94 alt. on the Fox bracket, but you need to cut a small notch in the backside of the bracket. Did this with mine. I also cut off the air pump ears to clean up the bracket too. The '94-'95 alt. is the best one Ford ever made.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Man Scott, you read my mind. Yeah I can sell the block and heads and I have the roller block from the 94. So i went by the yard today and talked to the guy told him about the motor. Also I told him I appreciated him helping me out with all the other accessories, and I can probably sell the motor etc. I asked him if he'd hook me up on a few more parts to make up for the block. I got the wiring harness, the fuel cutoff switch, the computer mounting bracket, and the gas pedal and cable. Was going to try and get the O2 harness but would have had to pull the driver seat to get them and the fuel relay, so I passed on those. I just need the connectors anyway and I can get them off the 94. Although, I think the 94 only has 1 O2 sensor. cause the EGR had a tube went into the other header on the 94. Either way, I think I got a huge amount of parts, so I'm happy. Anyone know if you can move the A/C to the smog pump location on the 93? It would be a cleaner application.
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Parts are starting to come in now. I'm hoping to start pulling and replacing next week. I got the shorty headers in from summit. I put them on the engine and took some measurements. It doesnt look like they will even come close to fitting. I show that I only have about 3.5 " of clearance from head to shock tower on the driver side and about 4.5" on passenger side. These are around 5.5" from the head. I know james used a pair of JBA's and I've heard people say most any shorty would work, but anyone have a model number to one they KNOW works on these swaps? This would appear to be one 1650-SJS Mustang 5.0 EFI Swap Header Mid-Length Ceramic 1964-1973 | CJ Pony Parts and Summit has the same one just its not called a 5.0 EFI swap header there. I really don't want to spend that much for headers but if nothing else will fit, then I guess I'm stuck. I do want the ceramic coating to keep heat down. Any suggestions?
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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how about these hedman's? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HE...NG&prefilter=1

I did call summit before I ordered. The guy really wasn't all that helpful. Now I have to ship these others back. Just don't want to have to ship too much back.
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1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ok got some pictures uploaded so I will try and post them.

My car.




The 94 donor motor



The AOD (which should have been an AODE but it worked out)



The 289 thats currently in the car



Can someone tell me what alternator this is?


The Heads off the 94 (currently being ported & revalved to 1.94 and 1.60 and adding studs and roller 1:6 ratio rockers)


The block torn down. Very little wear on the cylinder walls. not a lot of sludge in the valley pan.



This is the motor out of the 91 that I got. supposedly JUST rebuilt and runs strong.



Can you spot the problem?


how bout now


The timing chain cover for the 91 about to be drilled. I drilled from the inside out as it gave me more room to get the right angle without buying a long bit.



And after its drilled.



I will have more on all the parts and various ones as I install them.
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1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...-my-build.html

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Old 07-25-2012, 09:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok a few more.....

Intake and some accessories gotta find something to clean that aluminum...


New oil pump and pickup and the bottom end after washing the block with diesel.



Pistons cleaned up.




Oil pan painted and set in place
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