1969 Hydraulic clutch - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 03:35 PM
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I have the same setup sitting in my basement for sale.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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what pics do you need?

IM LOVING MY LIL BABY!

T5 with Hydraulic clutch
302 ported & bored .40
petronix II & flame coil
short 96 headers flowmaster with X pipe
planning a DIY subframe & track bars

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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juit View Post
what pics do you need?
Anything would be a help, especially of the slave cylinder mount.

Thanks.
Chuck



Check out Popular Hot Rodding, Aug 2009, Pg 35, upper right corner!

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 07:21 PM
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I built this slave mount out of a piece of scrap angle iron. It's used for a Wilwood pull type slave, and bolts to a Energy Suspension motor mount. I used a 1" master but a 7/8" will probably work with it. If you have the room around your header, etc, it would be a much cheaper alternative than the CNC slave and aftermarket mount.

John

Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 12:00 AM
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I'm curious on how the 1" master pushes the 7/8" slave?
I had to put in a 3/4" master to pull my 7/8" slave. I tried the 1" master but couldn't couldn't get the 7/8" slave to move much. The 3/4" still takes a little force to move the slave.
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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maybe you are not purging it correctly?

I just need to move only 1 inch of pedal to shift on my setup

sorry I haven't upload more pics Ill try to do a video

.

IM LOVING MY LIL BABY!

T5 with Hydraulic clutch
302 ported & bored .40
petronix II & flame coil
short 96 headers flowmaster with X pipe
planning a DIY subframe & track bars


Last edited by juit; 02-09-2013 at 12:26 AM.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrinkdude View Post
I'm curious on how the 1" master pushes the 7/8" slave?
I had to put in a 3/4" master to pull my 7/8" slave. I tried the 1" master but couldn't couldn't get the 7/8" slave to move much. The 3/4" still takes a little force to move the slave.
The bigger the master cylinder is in relation to the slave cylinder, the longer stroke the slave will have as well as requiring more foot pressure to push in the clutch. In my case, I originally used a 7/8" master and with the Centerforce pressure plate, and the pedal force was way too light. The 1" master made it feel almost like a stock system only much smoother.

John

Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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I bended the yellow stud a lil to make a soft swing

If you can see I also hooked to the wheel firewall screw

with this the clutch wont move the firewall










here is a video link with an awful ending

t5 clutch bracket mustang 1969 69 - YouTube



BEWARE IF YOU HAVE KIDS OR HAVE A HEART PROBLEM DONT LOOK AT THE VIDEO YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED






.

IM LOVING MY LIL BABY!

T5 with Hydraulic clutch
302 ported & bored .40
petronix II & flame coil
short 96 headers flowmaster with X pipe
planning a DIY subframe & track bars


Last edited by juit; 02-09-2013 at 09:46 PM.
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 09:24 PM
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Juit, After looking at your video, it appears that you have the bleed fitting on the bottom of the slave and the supply line on the top. It will be just about impossible to completely bleed the system as pictured. The bleed fitting needs to be on the top of the slave cylinder.

John

Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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its still doable if you bleed it from the master cylinder

I have access to a brake purge pump also

Maybe Ill move it if I need to move anything but it has been working great since 07-22-2012

thanks for the heads up

IM LOVING MY LIL BABY!

T5 with Hydraulic clutch
302 ported & bored .40
petronix II & flame coil
short 96 headers flowmaster with X pipe
planning a DIY subframe & track bars


Last edited by juit; 02-09-2013 at 10:00 PM.
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 11:18 AM
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Many thanks for the additional pictures and the video! It looks like you disassembled things just to take the pictures. I REALLY appreciate that, especially since I know how difficult it is to reach under the dash.

Chuck



Check out Popular Hot Rodding, Aug 2009, Pg 35, upper right corner!

My budget makes a shoe-string budget look like Warren Buffett's personal checking account.

1969 Mustang Fastback (work in progress)
(Pics Gallery) (Video)
1995 Mustang GT Convertible (daily driver)
1994 Mustang GT Coupe (donor car)
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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no prob

glad they worked for ya

IM LOVING MY LIL BABY!

T5 with Hydraulic clutch
302 ported & bored .40
petronix II & flame coil
short 96 headers flowmaster with X pipe
planning a DIY subframe & track bars

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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
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I paid for all of this 170 bucks so its a big saving

got an incredible deal from High Performance Parts & Accessories - Car Shop Inc. and sold me this combo

I've bought so far:

wilwood hydraulic master

Juit, what size is the Wilwood Master?


I also have SN95 T5 & Bell housing. I bought a BMW slave which has a bore of 13/16" - .8125" from AutoZone for $20. With this slave, I only need 3 holes which two are for the mount and one for the rod. I will trim the clutch fork and cover the rectangular opening and will look nice. I looked at various setup such as Isuzu and Miata slave but I really like the BMW slave. For the Master I have a 80's Toyota Land Cruiser Master with 3/4" bore.

I am trying to find if a 3/4" bore master is enough for a 13/16" slave. With my slave even more further in, I would think 13/16" slave would be more than enough.

Thanks

Waid
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Last edited by waid302; 03-25-2014 at 10:45 PM.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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I think my master was a 3\4

IM LOVING MY LIL BABY!

T5 with Hydraulic clutch
302 ported & bored .40
petronix II & flame coil
short 96 headers flowmaster with X pipe
planning a DIY subframe & track bars

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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 08:09 AM
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On my FFR Cobra, I used a Wilwood slave which is .88 and originally tried a 3/4" Wilwood master cylinder. The clutch pedal feel was way too light and the 3/4" just barely had enough throw to disengage the clutch. I changed it to a 1" master, and the pedal feel was was much improved and the clutch disengagement could be adjusted.

A 3/4" master be correct, depending on the type of slave used but for my car the 1" was perfect.

John

Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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