The -8 at the end of your part number for that cam indicates it is not a billet core (SADI core instead) - you can run a plain old distributer gear with that cam. I am running a stock HiPo distributer on a cast core Comp Cam solid roller with no problems. Aslo, for the money it is going to cost you to go with an MSD distributer, coil, and box, I do not see the benfit over your Pertronix equiped stock distributer, dollar for dollar.
The -8 at the end of your part number for that cam indicates it is not a billet core (SADI core instead) - you can run a plain old distributer gear with that cam. I am running a stock HiPo distributer on a cast core Comp Cam solid roller with no problems. Aslo, for the money it is going to cost you to go with an MSD distributer, coil, and box, I do not see the benfit over your Pertronix equiped stock distributer, dollar for dollar.
you think I should just have my distributer recurved and go with that ?
I seem to recall the engine builder saying Comp told him I don't need a bronze dizzy gear with that cam.
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Ford True Blue paint, 17X8 Edelbrock 454 wheels, waiting to install... 91 roller 347, AFR 185 heads / AOD/2,800 rpm stall / 8.8 rear with 373 gears / 4 wheel disc brakes. / Xpipe, Dynomax Ultraflows . More pictures here-->http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...-few-pics.html
you think I should just have my distributer recurved and go with that ?......".
in my opinion the pertronix quality is nowhere close to the msd units. You will never get more than you pay for in life. You want cheap, go pertronix. Want better, get msd.
my experience with pertronix, bought a #1, it failed, bought a #2, had misfire when hot.
bought the msd digital 6+ and have had it on three different cars over a 9 year/ 50,000+ mies period.
IMO, MSD all the way. I had the first version of the HVC coil fail on me after the warranty had expired and MSD had me send them the whole set-up for testing. Next thing I know I'm receiving all new parts at no cost to me including the HVC coil. MSD=Great customer services.
when I changed to an msd ready-to-run distributor the following changes occurred:
1) car was easier starting
2) better gas mileage, + 3 mpg.
3) easier to tune when I made other changes ( added vintage Paxton, changed carbs. etc)
several years later I added a msd box, the digital 6, which I would recommend over the 6AL box. The addition of the box yielded:
1) wayyyy easier starting in hot weather. The digital 6+ box has a 20 degree start retard feature. It is incredible how much faster the engine spins with that much ignition retard for starting, maybe 2 or 3 times faster.
2) Hotter spark, or multiple sparks maybe, whatever the cause, now the engine was burning fuel more completely. The rpm at idle picked up considerably.
3) gained another +4 mpg, for a total of 7 mpg over the stock ignition system (Both systems were mechanical advance only). With a vacuum advance distributor, there should be even better results.
The above results were overshadowed by the great reliability of the msd products. In comparison my experiences were Pertronix were disappointing. Obviously, others have not had the same failure rate that I did with Pertronix (two units, a I and a II). I used them on two different cars, both failed within six months.
Z.
What ignition coil are you running?
I have a Pertronix dist, stock type ignition coil and a MSD 6AL. I had a MSD blaster II, but the MSD 6AL just wouldn't work with it in.
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1969 Ford Mustang Coupe; 351w (5.8L) carb engine; Champion 4 row aluminum radiator; Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold; Edelbrock 750 CFM Carb; Crager Wheels; 215/60-15 front tires, 255/60-15 rear tires; Doug Tri-Y Headers; Custom Dual Side Exit Exhaust w/Xpipe; MSD 6AL; Electric Fuel Pump; March Performance U/D Pulley Set; Curved Monte Carlo Bar.
Thanks! Maybe I'll try out one of those. Any particular one better than the other?
the blue one is the best, but it's pretty pricy, and large also, making the mounting a problem. I did have one of the red ones go sour after above 5 years of heavy duty usage. It still worked, but I had a ragged idle with it. So I tried out the big blue one, and the idle quality improved. But I was using a supercharger at the time, so my ignition system was seeing more than the usual stress.
If you're going to run a digital 6, and an HVC coil, you better make sure you're alternator is up to the task.
you may, or may not, need more than a stock 42 amp alternator.I would consult with an engineer from msd tech support line. They would certainly be able to tell you the exact amp requirements of the distributor, box, and coil, and at any given rpm. The advice you get here is anecdotal in nature and not based on scientific compiled data.
My alternator is a autolite remanufactured unit that puts out 61 amps and ran the ignition and H4 headlight bulbs w/o any issues.
MSD ignition boxes are pretty much the high water mark as far as those
types of components go. The only aftermarket ignition that was ever
shown to generate more hp was the Hays Stinger. As is often the case
in life, the cubic marketing dollars that Autotronic's (MSD) had available
pretty much silenced the superior performance of the Stinger equipment
and that was that.
The MSD boxes do fail, even the ones used in NASCAR, that's why the
cars have a backup box (and the components inside those boxes are
likely a much higher grade than that of the retail MSD items).
That said, the Pertronix ignitors are no longer as high a quality unit as
they were back in the 80's and 90's when they were known as Per-Lux
and I've had more than one fail, which is not something I can personally
say about the MSD boxes.
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you may, or may not, need more than a stock 42 amp alternator.I would consult with an engineer from msd tech support line. They would certainly be able to tell you the exact amp requirements of the distributor, box, and coil, and at any given rpm. The advice you get here is anecdotal in nature and not based on scientific compiled data.
My alternator is a autolite remanufactured unit that puts out 61 amps and ran the ignition and H4 headlight bulbs w/o any issues.
Z.
I was running a few more high draw items, and had issues. I ran an electric fuel pump, and fan as well, and I chased what I thought was a carburetor problem forever. It seemed to run rich, especially at idle. I could never get it to idle clean, and it would load up, and kill spark plugs. I finally put a powermaster 140 amp on it, and it cured very problem, and the car made noticeably more power.
I wasn't sure if a stock style alternator would do it without the items I had. Apparently it can, but it's defiently something to look into.
That is good to know about the pertronix stuff- I was under the impression it was quality.
admittedly, the pertronix products have their fans, they are cheap to buy, and work well most of the time. But from what I have learned, the failure rate is higher than the higher priced aftermarket ignitions such as MSD. The msd ignitions are not fail proof, they just fail more rarely. That's all I want them to do, just be better.
what is involved with an alternator upgrade ? I'll be running H4 headlights with the relay kit and the MSD parts. My engine builder suggested I run a blaster coil with it. I just want it all to be fully tunable becasue I'm going to have my 347 tuned on an engine dyno to tune it perfectly for driveability and max reliable power. I don't want to leave anything on the table (safely). I know how extremely important a/f tuning as well as distributer (ignition) tuning is on these non computer controlled cars is, and I don't have the time, patience, or knowledge to figure it all out.
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Ford True Blue paint, 17X8 Edelbrock 454 wheels, waiting to install... 91 roller 347, AFR 185 heads / AOD/2,800 rpm stall / 8.8 rear with 373 gears / 4 wheel disc brakes. / Xpipe, Dynomax Ultraflows . More pictures here-->http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...-few-pics.html
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