Are any of the new Mustang 8.8 rears adaptable to a 70 Mustang? I'm doing a 70 convertible and would like to change to a complete 8.8 hub to hub. Looking to do away with leaf springs etc. How much work is needed? Any links to somebody who has done this?
Thanks for any info
I'm doing a 70 convertible and would like to change to a complete 8.8 hub to hub. Looking to do away with leaf springs etc. How much work is needed?
Lots of work and fabrication. Oh, and lots of $$$$$$
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11.5:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed
Link to my Hub Garage and blog about my car http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96
I just did this in my 65, which is narrower than a 70. I used the R & C 4 link in the rear. It was not bad at all in my opinion. I just cut the stuff off that I didn't use and followed the directions. Did the whole thing in a day. I may have to narrow it just a touch, and still have to deal with the drive line. The R & C system is really straight forward, great directions and comes with a video. I have heard that the explorer 8.8 is essentially the same, with rear discs and such, but have not used one yet. Go to my last post in this forum to see pics of mine if you like. Well worth it in my opinion (have not run it yet though...) Good luck.
65vertstang, you are doing what I did on my sons 70 fastback in 2000. DOHC 4.6, T45, except I kept the 8" rear, but rebuilt it with 3.80 gears and Arburn limited slip. I used R & C front suspension also. Very nice and simple. The vert is for my daughter. I am thinking Coyote engine but with an auto trans for her. R & C front with R & C 4 link in back. I want a more updated drive in this car. Disc all around, etc. I am in the info gathering stage of the project. Since I do all the labor on my cars, the cost should not be too much of an issue other then purchasing the parts. I am exploring buying a wrecked car versus individual parts.
Thanks for the reply
65vertstang, you are doing what I did on my sons 70 fastback in 2000. DOHC 4.6, T45, except I kept the 8" rear, but rebuilt it with 3.80 gears and Arburn limited slip. I used R & C front suspension also. Very nice and simple. The vert is for my daughter. I am thinking Coyote engine but with an auto trans for her. R & C front with R & C 4 link in back. I want a more updated drive in this car. Disc all around, etc. I am in the info gathering stage of the project. Since I do all the labor on my cars, the cost should not be too much of an issue other then purchasing the parts. I am exploring buying a wrecked car versus individual parts.
Thanks for the reply
I had a buddy parting out a cobra so I got everything I needed from it, plus some stuff that I didn't. I think that the Coyote is so bad a**, but for the price that I got my drive train for I wouldn't even be close to a Coyote and would still need, everything besides the engine. The only thing that I forgot (and I am kicking myself now...) was the brake booster and master C set-up. Having the donor right there would make things even easier for sure. R&C make it almost too easy with the engine mounts already welded in place, love it! I want to be safe with my kids in the car so discs all around, and reliable drive train are very important to me as well. Same thought on the labor, doing it all myself, not only am I learning and having fun but also I know every nut and bolt on this thing! By no stretch am I an expert but happy to help if you have questions. Good luck and enjoy!
The SN95 rear is about 1.5" wider (hub to hub) than a 70 rear. If you are planning to use aftermarket or late model rims, this shouldn't be a problem. I am planning to use the rear from my 94 GT donor. I am running 97 GT rims and with the old rear end, needed 1" spacers. With the new rear, I should only need 1/4" spacers.
Chuck
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Check out Popular Hot Rodding, Aug 2009, Pg 35, upper right corner!
My budget makes a shoe-string budget look like Warren Buffett's personal checking account.
Why not use the cheap effective 8.8 Explorer rear end that comes with disc, posi, 3.73 gears, 31spline and close to same hub to hub. Plus it doesn't really have that many brackets to cut off. I tried cutoff, plasma and sawzall: Really prefered the sawzall as it was quiet on the casting and allowed it to get pretty close to tube, Finished with flapper wheel.
I bought mine for like $3oo online with warrantee, rotors turned and calipers loaded with disposable pads. Moving pads anyhow with Crites kit and simply welding on new pads (circle track make some very stout ones) to fit to my 67.
Add your suspension of choice to this for an inexpensive rather stout diff for anything short of drag racing. I road race one with over 600hp.
ONE NOTE: The tubes are 3.25 vs the more common 3" so you'll have to do some fitting.
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69 351 TKO Sport Roof
70 557 PG Mach I
67 347 TKO Coupe open track car
67 289 C4 Coupe cruiser
69 460 SCJ TKO convertible
94 351 TKO NASA Mustang
Lukesportsman, thanks for the reply. Do the Explorer rears use the same bolt hole pattern as the front wheels? I like the idea of making the change to the Explorer rear. Just wondering if front and rear wheels would have to bought with different hole patterns and if this limits the choices of wheels. This site is a wealth of knowledge and info. Thanks
No, same bolt pattern and are available quite affordably versus other options for a mid power car. You want it to come from the last of the 302 4x4 versions to have the right options on axles and gearing and get the disc breaks. The V6's were available with different ratios, but you'll give up the strength. Pay extra up front (maybe $100) and save a lot in later upgrades.
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69 351 TKO Sport Roof
70 557 PG Mach I
67 347 TKO Coupe open track car
67 289 C4 Coupe cruiser
69 460 SCJ TKO convertible
94 351 TKO NASA Mustang
Lukesportsman - When you installed the explorer rear in your 67, did you do anything about the 2.5" offset pinion? And what kind of driveshaft style did you use ( the explorer flange type or original)? I am putting an AOD in my 67 vert and and want put better gears in the back and the explorer is quite the deal.
Thanks, Jim
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On HotRod Power Tour 04 - Lake of the Ozarks
69 Cougar 351W 5spd 4WDB
65 Ranchero 302 5spd
I modded an Explorer 8.8 for my 66. Basically to get rid of the large offset and make it fit my car I shortened the driver side(ds) tube to match the passenger side (ps) and used a new ps axle shaft on the ds. The difference is 2 7/8".
The assembly is now 56 5/8" wide wheel mountiing surface (wms) to wms or 5/8" narrower than a stock 66. There is still a pinion offset of 7/8" to the ps.
The wheel bolt pattern is the same 5x4.5
I paid $110 for this rear complete with the disc brakes, it has the Tracloc and 31 spline axles plus it came from a v6 2000 model with 110,000 miles on it. Same rear as the v8 Explorer.
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66 T code converting to V8
Modified Explorer 8.8 w/3.73 LS
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8.8 rear in a 70
