I'm getting close to buttoning up my Tremec T5 swap, and figured I'd post up how I got it to work in case anyone was looking for info, what I've run into, and just general suggestions. I apologize for the crappy pictures, it's hard to get good lighting in a garage.
My car is a 1968 Mustang Coupe, original V8 and C4 car. It currently has a 1971 302 engine, so it is the stock 28oz imbalance. It is also equipped with headers (unknown brand - cheap ones) and power steering. It was also a factory A/C car, but most of that has gone missing.
The donor car for the transmission was a 1999 Mustang with the 3.8L V6. The reason for the V6 transmission, is that it uses the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 289 and 302 V8's. If you have access to the donor car (I didn't, had to source these parts elsewhere) be sure to grab the block plate, starter, clutch fork, and clutch/pressure plate itself if it is still in good shape. I ended up buying everything new since I bought the transmission off Craigslist.
The transmission itself is a Tremec T5. This is a slightly updated version of the older T5's, and is supposed to handle up to 300hp I've been told (V6 model).
Since I got my transmission off Craigslist, I didn't get a starter, flywheel, or clutch with it. I sourced my parts new instead.
The clutch kit is from the same car the transmission is from, a 1999 Mustang with a 3.8L V6. I got mine from Napa, part number
1107114. The Mustang uses an 11" clutch, so there should be no worries with this behind a mildly built V8.
The starter also comes from the same car, a 1999 Mustang with a 3.8L V6. I got this from Napa as well, part number
4N-9240.
The flywheel was a bit tricky. It had to be 164 tooth and accept and 11" clutch (The '99 Mustang uses an 11" clutch and 164t flywheel), BUT it also had to be 28oz imbalance. After doing some research, I found out that 351W engines kept the 28oz imbalance when Ford switched the 302 over to 50oz. Further research discovered that an 80's/90's Bronco (truck will work too) with a 351W and manual transmission used a 164t, 28oz flywheel that accepts an 11" clutch. O'reilly's had one in stock, part number
SAC NFW1129.
Once I sourced all of those parts, it was time for assembly. Most likely, your old bellhouing bolts won't work with the T5 bellhousing because it is thicker, so pick up some longer ones at the hardware store. I also bought new starter bolts since I didn't have any. The bellhousing bolts are 7/16" coarse thread, and the starter bolts are 3/8" coarse thread.
The flywheel will bolt right in place of your old flexplate. Torque the bolts down and install the pilot bearing. The clutch and pressure plate install next. The pressure plate-flywheel takes six 3/8" coarse thread bolts, each with a lock washer.
Now, for the transmission itself. I have headers, so it gets a little tight underneath. I ended up having to remove the passenger side header and install the bellhousing and clutch fork first, otherwise the bellhousing won't have room to slip between the collectors. I believe this wouldn't be necessary if I had stock exhaust manifolds. However, even if I did, I would still install the bellhousing separately first, as it was much easier to deal with the transmission without the bellhousing attached.
Once the bellhousing was bolted down, the transmission slid nicely right into place. I bolted it together and since I don't have a mount yet, I used a jack to simulate where it will sit once done. I will pick up a new mount tomorrow and test fit it with the stock crossmember, and update it here.
Some of the problems I ran into:
1. The headers on the drivers side come very close to the clutch fork, and really close to where the cable will be. Since these headers are crappy anyway, I will probably end up going back to cast manifolds and running dual exhaust to eliminate some of these problems. Also, even though it is hard to see, the power steering ram sits directly behind the clutch cable hole. This means that you WON'T be able to run power steering. I will be converting mine back to manual steering to make room for the clutch cable.
2. The passenger side header slightly contacted the block spacer plate, forcing me to clearance the header tube. The starter is also pretty close to the headers as well, close enough that I would recommend heat wrapping it if you stick with headers. Again, I'll probably go back to manifolds to eliminate a few of these problems.
And finally, here is the shifter as it sits in the interior. It is centered almost perfectly in the hole with the stock shift lever. I will be keeping the stock lever because the angle is perfect for me, at 6' 4", and replacing the knob with something a little more period correct.
A few last little side notes:
I reused my stock C4 gas pedal, but cut the kickdown arm off it. Not necessarily because it hit anything, but it was in a very awkward spot, and removing it opened up a surprising amount of room underneath.
I will also be using Mustang Steve's clutch cable kit.
I don't have a transmission mount yet, I'm going to compare the stock C4 one with a 99 Mustang one, and post the results here.
This transmission in particular uses an electronic speedo pickup. I will either have to pick up a Cable-X box to use it with my stock speedometer, convert to an electronic speedometer, or convert the transmission from a reluctor ring to a plastic gear. Not sure how I want to approach it quite yet.
Well, there it is! Kind of exciting to have 5 gears now! Any questions or comments?
My T5 swap saga: 68 Mustang with Tremec T5
