I've read the correct method to welding in connectors is to have suspension loaded to eliminate the chance of twisting the body. However; can I tack the connectors into place while on jack stands then finishing welding them on the rotisserie without the possibility of twisting the body?
Don't know. I do know that the body shop I had do some work (which was to include the subframe connectors) didn't want to do the connectors without the engine and transmission in.
Chuck
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I did mine when the body was a shell. I supported it as closely as possible to the suspension load points (front rails where the springs sit, on the rear torque boxes. I ddin't have any issues.
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I've read the correct method to welding in connectors is to have suspension loaded to eliminate the chance of twisting the body. However; can I tack the connectors into place while on jack stands then finishing welding them on the rotisserie without the possibility of twisting the body?
I used your proposed method and it worked just fine. I fit them in place with the car supporetd on the frame rails (completely bare shell), tacked them in place, and then welded them on the rotisserie. It's so much easier to weld when you are not laying on your back, and more importantly, you don't have hot slag and spatter falling on you the entire time. I figured it would be better to do it that way since all the extra weight could potentially throw some sag in the unibody that would be permanently kept in place by welding in the subframe connectors.
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration in progress
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC
I did mine as a shell, w/o motor/or tranny. I did have the doors on- so I made sure the gaps were good, then tacked the SFC in place. Then put it up on stands (double checked here to make sure gaps were the same- they were) so then I just welded it right up. (small detail here: make sure you have the floor cleaned up-specifically don't leave a 18v dewalt drill laying up there) I kinda forgot with all the stuff going on- damn near ruined a good drill
Well, I did mine with the car up on a body lift because that was all that was available. While the car was up the shock towers and front of the car sagged. I welded everything together and then the back of the fenders sat higher than the front of the doors at the gap. I didn't have an export brace installed at the time either. Well, took a few years before I could get to it, but I had to unbolt my export brace, and cut my subframe connectors to let the frame to settle again. I added some extra steel between the subframe bar cut and the mount to take up the new gap, welded it up. It still has a little bit of unevenness from the fender to door lines but its so much better now.
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I'm sure, in theory, the car needs to be supported and loaded as it would be on the road. However, even the convertibles don't flex that much when sitting still. Just as a measurement, I measured the gap between my door and body before I removed the engine and transmission and after. No measurable change (used a set of calipers). So, from my experience, I didn't worry about it.
I did however, build raised supports for the front tires so that I could rest the car on the front tires and just support the rear end with jack stands. Gave me more clearance and kept the car on it's normal supports. That is far more important, as Bart's experience showed. Support the car as close to the normal supports as you can.
The theory behind installing the connectors with the suspension loaded is your door gaps and panel alignments will remain the same after adding the connectors, and the connectors will minimize further deflection of the car's frame/rockers. If you support the car by the rockers, some of the settlement/deflection that has occurred over the years will come out (how much that is I'm not sure) and then when you load the suspension with the subframe connectors, more stress will be introduced into the connectors since the body will want to return to its original position. This is more apparent on convertibles rather than coupe/fastbacks. For a convertible I'd rather get the car undeflected and weld the connectors in, but for the coupe/fastback I don't think you will see much difference in welding them in with suspension loaded vs unloaded.
If jack stands are your only option, you can get the same effect by putting the jack stands under the rear axle tubes and the front LCAs under the spring pockets (or as near to them as possible). Your suspension is then "loaded".
I was happy with my Global Wests when I installed them, but I'm seeing some pretty nice newer setups out there that tie into rear suspensions, inner rockers, etc. The more connection points you have to the unibody, the more effective they're going to be.
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Subframe connector installation ?
67 coupe 289 2bl, c4, 34k. That's how I got it but a lot has changed.
