if you're thinking forged rotating assembly then you definately should be thinking of stroking that 351 to a 408 which of course chagnes a lot of decision making. Then you can get what ever heads you want and choose the piston that will work with the heads. Then you just need to ask about how to build a 408 for your budget. That will give you plenty of power.
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Ford True Blue paint, 17X8 Edelbrock 454 wheels, waiting to install... 91 roller 347, AFR 185 heads / AOD/2,800 rpm stall / 8.8 rear with 373 gears / 4 wheel disc brakes. / Xpipe, Dynomax Ultraflows . More pictures here-->http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...-few-pics.html
There is no way I would do a forged stock stroke 351W bottom end.
For light weight do a 347 stroked 302 with aluminum heads.
Keeping the 351, stroke it to 408.
For 7K rpm, you will need a solid flat tappet valvetrain. Solid rollers are cool, but they are high maintenance, especially if driven on the street.
A Hyd. Roller is a great option if you keep the revs to 6500.
As stated previously, start with a plan for a complete engine package and stick to that plan.
Much of your M3 experience will not transfer to older engine platforms.
Maybe a 408 is what I need to do. Im guessing I could stroke and keep everything else stock for now?
FORDSTROKERS.COM or Brian at ADPERFORMANCE.COM build great engines. If looking for a kit I would stay with Scat cast crank and Scat I beam Rods and Forged pistons.
$1800..... get your mind straight in what you want the car to do 90% of the time....
than design your build around that.
you already have a performer RPM manifold so that means probably 90% street driving.
TW heads and about $500 for roller cam or get some info about a custom cam for your car.... You will like that much better than an OTS cam.
don't put it on until you can get the rest of the valve train.
You are going to need a better carb than the 600 Holley.
You might want to talk the significant other into increasing the budget to do the heads, cam and carb all at once. You will be much happier that way. you will have it down for a weekend and significantly improved on Sunday driving it around. Or do the cam and heads and wait on the carb...
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1970 Mustang coupe.
347 with world products heads, roller cam, roller rockers, Cal custom finned valve covers, performer RPM intake and a holley carb.
Hooker headers, jegs 2.5 exhaust.
C4 trans with a shift kit and PAW converter http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y12.../70%20mustang/
Has jegs drag star knock offs now..... More to come when i get home!
The RPM mani came on the car, I'll probably upgrade if I need too. As well as the 600 cfm carb, I'll be getting a 750 cfm carb soon (from a friend).
Goal is to have a good autox/ road course car base; yet still streetable. Which is why I'd like to have a 7k RPM redline (wish it could be higher), better for the road courses.
I might actually just start with coilovers and tires, as that will improve the handling. That along with some weight reduction will definitely greatly improve handling.
Last couple days I've been debating on getting a T56 before any power mods, as that would do wonders on the track compared to any power mods I could do. I want more power, but I also want to be well rounded. A lot of power and a crappy suspension setup won't get me very far in autox.
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1969 Ford Mustang Coupe; 351w (5.8L) carb engine; Champion 4 row aluminum radiator; Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold; Edelbrock 750 CFM Carb; Crager Wheels; 215/60-15 front tires, 255/60-15 rear tires; Doug Tri-Y Headers; Custom Dual Side Exit Exhaust w/Xpipe; MSD 6AL; Electric Fuel Pump; March Performance U/D Pulley Set; Curved Monte Carlo Bar.
could I just keep the stock bore but increase the stroke?
So rather than getting a 4.030 bore, just stick with the 4.0 bore (with the 4" stroke) and get a displacement of 402. Wouldn't that cause less stress and side load?
Just a thought.
EDIT:
This crank (weighs 6 lbs less than stock and is in most of their stroker kits):
Drive the car and keep saving up. I have to agree with many others, you need a comprehensive plan for the ENTIRE drivetrain before spending dollar one. Failing to do so always costs much more in the long run.
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69 Mach 1 418W/TKO600/Street HP750/RMP Front Coil-Over/TCP Manual R&P/3.70 Auburn Pro/Global West SFC-5 Leafs-Del-A-Lum/Koni's/Magnaflow 2.5 X pipe
Drive the car and keep saving up. I have to agree with many others, you need a comprehensive plan for the ENTIRE drivetrain before spending dollar one. Failing to do so always costs much more in the long run.
I think cams and heads will be the biggest thing I do, on top of the stroker kit.
I think I'll probably end up doing all the suspension and wheels first, then a t56, then the rest of the big engine mods. The manual trans alone will change the car dramatically as well as help get a little more power to the ground. This whole 3 speed auto thing is killing me! lol.
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1969 Ford Mustang Coupe; 351w (5.8L) carb engine; Champion 4 row aluminum radiator; Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold; Edelbrock 750 CFM Carb; Crager Wheels; 215/60-15 front tires, 255/60-15 rear tires; Doug Tri-Y Headers; Custom Dual Side Exit Exhaust w/Xpipe; MSD 6AL; Electric Fuel Pump; March Performance U/D Pulley Set; Curved Monte Carlo Bar.
could I just keep the stock bore but increase the stroke?
So rather than getting a 4.030 bore, just stick with the 4.0 bore (with the 4" stroke) and get a displacement of 402. Wouldn't that cause less stress and side load?
I'm not sure what else I'd need, but that's definitely the bulk of it.
393 stroker keeps your current pistons and changes the crank and rods only I believe. Then you will be limited to running heads that work with your stock pistons too.
I think you should do the T56 transmission and suspension and buy, or build a 408 starting with a 351 roller block on the side. Get one off craigslist from a 90's F150 or van. You could also buy a good 408 shortblock then the heads / cam later on if you're like me and you like to buy save, buy and save.. No matter how you cut it a good 408 will probably cost you $6-7k but will certainly do what you want it to.
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Ford True Blue paint, 17X8 Edelbrock 454 wheels, waiting to install... 91 roller 347, AFR 185 heads / AOD/2,800 rpm stall / 8.8 rear with 373 gears / 4 wheel disc brakes. / Xpipe, Dynomax Ultraflows . More pictures here-->http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...-few-pics.html
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get some info about a custom cam for your car.... You will like that much better than an OTS cam.
