What makes more power: heads or cam?

[Tarmac_69_Mustang]

I'm going to guess that heads will make more power, but what would you all recommend; heads or cam first?

I have an idea of what heads I want, as well as cam, just wondering which step I should take first and install for the best power gains.

These are the cams: 7182 Mustang Edelbrock Cam And Lifter Kit Performer RPM Flat Tappet Cam 351W | CJ Pony Parts Of course it will get all the supporting parts which gets up to around $800.

Here are the heads I'm considering: 79259 Mustang Edelbrock E-Cnc 185 Cylinder Head Assembled 289/302/351W | CJ Pony Parts Not too familiar with heads, so any input is appreciated there. These just seem like the most idea heads for my setup.

Input/ advice?

[Lee12609]

Going to need flycut or arftermarket pistons for them heads, I'd personally spend $50 more on trick flow heads if you're wanting a 2.02 valve head in that price range. I'd choose another cam, comp xe line is my preferred first choice but also like Howard grinds.

Figure out what the ultimate plan is because gearing, converter, compression all need to be considered before choosing heads and cam.

[Tarmac_69_Mustang]

Ultimate plan is a close ratio tremec 6 speed (probably keep my 3.25 final gear for now), cam w/ all supporting mods, heads (obviously), forged pistons, rods and crank.

I guess at this point... where should I start where the price staying within 1800? That's my limit for now.

[cmefly]

Cylinder heads will make the most power. If you are planning to install your heads on a stock piston block I would go with Trick flow like lee12609 recomended They will have the most room for piston to valve clearence.. I would also spend the extra money and convert to a roller Hydraulic cam by using link bar lifters if using a non roller block. On the E street heads they flow very well but come with crap valves and springs for performance use. Whatever heads you get make sure the valve springs will work for the cam you choose. Do not just go by what the manufacture says is ok.

[Lee12609]

My opinion which isn't worth much is start with just collecting parts when you are ready to be without a running car and have everything to build the motor then go for it all at once. Otherwise I'd just drop a cam in and leave the heads alone.

[Tarmac_69_Mustang]

Maybe I'll do cams for now, since that will sound awesome too. I just want to do something that will improve performance and be worth it individually; as well as be as "simple" as possible.

I'll also be going with street or track performance springs and cobra auto sway bar.

I'd like to do it all at once, but I need to control myself... After the engagement ring, I'm getting spoiled a bit with the car, but i'm limited to 1800. Even though the ring is more than that :| lol

[cmefly]

Best bang for the buck is gears for the rearend.

[Tarmac_69_Mustang]

It would be if I didn't have a 3 speed. it would kill any fwy driving.

I did do that for the previous car, M3, but I had 6 gears. I think my car currently tops out at around 120 MPH, revs at 2400(ish) RPMs at 60 MPH. All with 255/60/15 tires. :\

[Tarmac_69_Mustang]

If i could get a tremec t-56 now... I would do it. that would transform the car dramatically!

I wonder how much the C-4 trans weighs? Along with the better gearing, I bet the weight drop would be felt in a good way.

[Lee12609]

T56 probably weights more than a full c4.

[Dragbug]

If you get a cam first, it will be wasted money if you don't get heads that can breath. You would be better served by going with heads before cam if you can't do both together. Also, Trickflow 170's are the best bang for the buck. Just becareful with model of trickflow you get if you decide to go with trickflows. They have the street strip version that have larger head bolt holes then the street version and would require head bolt bushings on a stock block. Then they have a version for roller cammed blocks.

[TXMAG]

If it was me and $1800 was my price range I'd go with a set of TFS FAC190 heads from Fordstrokers.com. Woody will set them up with a valvetrain that is waaayyy better than anything you'll get off the shelf:
TEA Twisted Wedge Fast as Cast 190 Cylinder Heads

If you can up your range just a bit more you can pickup the pieces necessary to convert your cam to a hydraulic roller while you're at it. I also really like the XE line from COMP for an ots product.

[John_Del]

Any restriction anywhere in the engine will negate any single add on. Save your money (don't spend it on cheap women and booze), and do it all in one shot: carb\intake, heads, cam, exhaust.

As someone already pointed out, different gears and an overdrive tranny might do a lot more for the buck.

John

[sportsroof69]

If you're building a H/C/I combo, the cam should always be the last piece of the puzzle to tie it together. It's the brain that makes it all work.

Also, on this type of build, you don't "need" a forged crank and rods. The stock suff will hold well over the amount of power it'll be making. I'm still running a cast crank in my engine, and while I don't know exactly how much power it makes, it's enough to propel it to high 9s. Just a tip in case you want to save that money, or spend it elsewhere.

[Le Singe Psycho]

In my opinion/experience start with heads. Here's the reasoning:
A cam will try to make your engine breathe better through improved valve timing/lift, but if the head is restrictive (sucking through a tiny straw that you hold open a zillionth of a second longer), then it can't make (as good) use of the valve timing.
On the other hand, if you have big, free-flowing heads, they will optimize every last inch of whatever (even stock) cam (and rest of combo) you have in there. Also, smaller chamber/higher compression, bigger, better valves and possibly better rockers (1.7) can take up a lot of the slack of a weaker cam profile.

Of course "everything-at-once" is always best, but I think this most genuinely answers your actual question.

JACK