Going to need flycut or arftermarket pistons for them heads, I'd personally spend $50 more on trick flow heads if you're wanting a 2.02 valve head in that price range. I'd choose another cam, comp xe line is my preferred first choice but also like Howard grinds.
Figure out what the ultimate plan is because gearing, converter, compression all need to be considered before choosing heads and cam.
Last edited by Lee12609; 12-29-2012 at 11:27 PM.
Reason: Going to need flycutlor aftermarket pistons for them heads, I'd personally spend $50 more on trick flow heads if you're want
Cylinder heads will make the most power. If you are planning to install your heads on a stock piston block I would go with Trick flow like lee12609 recomended They will have the most room for piston to valve clearence.. I would also spend the extra money and convert to a roller Hydraulic cam by using link bar lifters if using a non roller block. On the E street heads they flow very well but come with crap valves and springs for performance use. Whatever heads you get make sure the valve springs will work for the cam you choose. Do not just go by what the manufacture says is ok.
My opinion which isn't worth much is start with just collecting parts when you are ready to be without a running car and have everything to build the motor then go for it all at once. Otherwise I'd just drop a cam in and leave the heads alone.
If you get a cam first, it will be wasted money if you don't get heads that can breath. You would be better served by going with heads before cam if you can't do both together. Also, Trickflow 170's are the best bang for the buck. Just becareful with model of trickflow you get if you decide to go with trickflows. They have the street strip version that have larger head bolt holes then the street version and would require head bolt bushings on a stock block. Then they have a version for roller cammed blocks.
If it was me and $1800 was my price range I'd go with a set of TFS FAC190 heads from Fordstrokers.com. Woody will set them up with a valvetrain that is waaayyy better than anything you'll get off the shelf: TEA Twisted Wedge Fast as Cast 190 Cylinder Heads
If you can up your range just a bit more you can pickup the pieces necessary to convert your cam to a hydraulic roller while you're at it. I also really like the XE line from COMP for an ots product.
If you're building a H/C/I combo, the cam should always be the last piece of the puzzle to tie it together. It's the brain that makes it all work.
Also, on this type of build, you don't "need" a forged crank and rods. The stock suff will hold well over the amount of power it'll be making. I'm still running a cast crank in my engine, and while I don't know exactly how much power it makes, it's enough to propel it to high 9s. Just a tip in case you want to save that money, or spend it elsewhere.
In my opinion/experience start with heads. Here's the reasoning:
A cam will try to make your engine breathe better through improved valve timing/lift, but if the head is restrictive (sucking through a tiny straw that you hold open a zillionth of a second longer), then it can't make (as good) use of the valve timing.
On the other hand, if you have big, free-flowing heads, they will optimize every last inch of whatever (even stock) cam (and rest of combo) you have in there. Also, smaller chamber/higher compression, bigger, better valves and possibly better rockers (1.7) can take up a lot of the slack of a weaker cam profile.
Of course "everything-at-once" is always best, but I think this most genuinely answers your actual question.
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