Critique my 66 front suspension w/ 351 plan

[cajungrav]

Im dropping a351 with an Aod trans in a 66 gt fastback and would like to know if I have chosen correct/suitable front suspension parts.

Front disc
Ccp mini subframe kit
1" drop gt springs w/ 1/4" poly insulators
1" sway bar
Export & monte bars
Shelby drop

This is mainly a street cruiser. Thx.

[Jsams]

How exactly is the CCP subframe kit better than the stock setup?
Does it have a better camber curve?

[Huskinhano]

Originally Posted by Jsams

How exactly is the CCP subframe kit better than the stock setup?
Does it have a better camber curve?

The subframe kit does not a thing for camber curve, it ties the front and rear frame rails together to make the body more rigid which will make the car work better with other suspension improvements. A car twisting and flexing isn't going to handle very well.


I'd suggest lowering the UCA. It's easy to do. As everyone says it improves the camber curve but IMO just as important it raises the roll center which makes the car corner flatter. On my 66, lowering the UCA 1" dropped over all ride height by about 5/8" because the relationship between the points where the spring mounts has increased. If you are going to use the "GT" springs and not the "620" springs, I'd suggest not cutting them at all until you see how it looks. I was going to cut a half coil off, I'm glad I didn't.

[Jsams]

I think he is talking about the CPP Mini subframe kit. Not subframe connectors.
See this link.
Disc Brake, Steering and Suspension Products for classic Chevy and Ford cars and trucks

[Huskinhano]

Originally Posted by Jsams

I think he is talking about the CPP Mini subframe kit. Not subframe connectors.
See this link.
Disc Brake, Steering and Suspension Products for classic Chevy and Ford cars and trucks

Forgot about that set up.

[GT289]

He says it's mainly going to a street cruiser.
I'd have to know more specifics about the benefits of that CPP kit.
With what I know right now, my "off the cuff," is why bother.....

You could lower the factory UCAs, spring it and replace all the stuff
that needs replaced and be where you need to be for a street car.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

[cajungrav]

Yes that's the kit I'm thinking about. It eliminates the strut rod. I forgot I will be completing a Shelby drop as well.

[LastDeadLast]

I'm with GT289. For a street cruiser why go through all that expense when you could lower the UCA's, maybe install roller perches and have street machine that would handle great.

Just my .02.

-Shannon

[dodgestang]

Add two front torque boxes while you are under there welding in your subframe bars.
Add roller perches to get more suspension movement/feel
Chose a good shock. (I like my IAS...but they don't make them anymore...it is worlds better than anything KYB makes)

[cajungrav]

The cpp kit is around $700 give or take. I've priced upgrading the stock control arms with an adjustable strut rod, and the price difference is minimal. The cpp kit gives me modern upper and lower control which I'm sure will handle better the stock upgrades. This is my first vintage rebuild so any opinions are valuable. Is my thinking correct or can the stock suspension handle like the cpp kit? Thx

[wheelsup351]

Originally Posted by LastDeadLast

I'm with GT289. For a street cruiser why go through all that expense when you could lower the UCA's, maybe install roller perches and have street machine that would handle great.

Just my .02.

-Shannon

This.

[cajungrav]

There's a $500 cost difference between rebuilding the factor style control arms versus the cpp kit. Does anyone have experience with the cpp kit? And does it out perform the stock style suspension?

[GT289]

See if those dudes will send you the camber curves for their setup.
Or find someone that's installing one and plot it.
Kinda falls under the heading of "one good test is worth a thousand
expert opinions."

I know CPP by the way. I just remembered. They're the Chevelle/Camaro/
Nova resto parts guys. Personally, I dunno that I'd be impressed with
their suspension design expertise on a Ford product.


ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

[leefrankpierce]

CCP subframe requires you to mod the car by cutting off the front strut rod connectors. Then you will be in a world of hurt if you do not like it, or need to rebuild the suspension later and CCP is not there.
Thus, I am trying to limit my choices to ones that do not mod the original frame. I am wondering if I could cut slots in the CCP to clear the strut mounts and keep them on.
The advantage of the CCP (as far as I see it) is to remove the front strut rod which is the strangest thing about a mustang suspension.
Most upgrade suspensions replace the rubber bushing with a solid joint, but I do note, few actually replace it, so it must not be that bad of a thing.
In fact, look a a forumula 1 car, they use struts.
Ridetech replaces the front strut with a piece they call a "strong arm" which eliminates the front strut rod like the CCA but uses the factory mounts.
I, as well as many people here, are struggling with the most cost effective way to get modern performance and do not mind spending the money, but do not want to waste money.
I emailed Sean from a while back, and have watched the threads closely, usually coming down to the same conclusion.
Factory deisgn was fine and handed good when new, we perceive the front suspenson as not working well cause we have used worn out suspensions.
Firm up the front strut, lower the uca, use a roller spring mount, ensure the steering is tight, put in good (not cheap) replacement parts and it will handle great up to any street car. If you plan on trying to take a corner at 150mph with a turbo porche on your bumper, then go for the tubular or full roller stuff.
The summary for me is sourcing parts from Opentracker which ensures all parts are properly setup and has useful upgrades at approx $1600
or
Sean's coilover with a 1" sway bar added at 2875
Street or Track Front Bilstein Coilover System
In both cases I am adding the bigger spindle from streetortrack.
I might have sean from streetortrack put a kit together, he used to have non-tubeular kits too, I think they use opentracker parts, but never asked.

[cajungrav]

You make an excellent point about the removal of the strut arm. If ccp goes out of business and I need to replace/rebuild it...I'm sol. The street r track system is great but seems bit pricey for a street car that may go down the strip once r twice.

I just priced out open tracker stock replacement setup at roughly $1200. Is open tracker the best quality for the price? If not, who else should I research.