Headers? Which will fit properly? Which are best in performance?
I am worried about ground clearance on my 66 289 Mustang. I am also worried about headers not fitting. So I hear that full length headers will not fit my car and that shortys will probably be best.
Get mid length, that way there's still power potential. To me it seems almost pointlessto get shorties only because you can mid length for a tad bit more and get more power.
You can also talk yo FPA, he makes headers that will fit anything.
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1969 Ford Mustang Coupe; 351w (5.8L) carb engine; Champion 4 row aluminum radiator; Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold; Edelbrock 750 CFM Carb; Crager Wheels; 215/60-15 front tires, 255/60-15 rear tires; Doug Tri-Y Headers; Custom Dual Side Exit Exhaust w/Xpipe; MSD 6AL; Electric Fuel Pump; March Performance U/D Pulley Set; Curved Monte Carlo Bar.
Unless you go with shorty’s or actual custom built headers, 99% of all headers will require "massaging" to install (whether it's denting a tube, moving a bracket, etc.). Unless it is for racing purposes, in all reality, there are little differences in overall performance between shorties (Tri-Y), mid-length & long tube headers.....shorties actually perform excellent up to about 5500 rpm and then will have a slight drop until 6k rpm when it begins to really decline.....more than enough for street use and much better than oem manifolds.
Hedmann in the 60's/70's an excellent product and considered one of the top mfg's with Hooker....they were built in Culver City, Ca until a few years ago. Beginning in the late 80's Hedmann quality began declining & today, they are considered an "inexpensive Header", meaning, you get what you pay for. In general, the head plate should be at least 3/8" (1/2" is best), tubing should be at least 16 gauge (14 is best).....otherwise leaks and burn-though are going to be a problem as well as the longetivity of the headers
I'm no expert on headers, but I've been really pleased with my Tri Ys. But as mentioned above, you get what you pay for. I spent the cash and got Doug's Ceramic coated Tri Ys. No fitment problems, great quality and I've had them on there since the end of 2002 and they still look great.
I used Sanderson shorties in my 66, with an AOD. No fitment problems at all. If you are not sure beechkid is right about the performance difference, here is a link to an actual test --http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Lets-Get-Technical.html Not sure why that won't come up as a link, but that is the location on Sanderson's site.
Last edited by Hwyman; 01-17-2013 at 09:14 PM.
Reason: link
I'm no expert on headers, but I've been really pleased with my Tri Ys. But as mentioned above, you get what you pay for. I spent the cash and got Doug's Ceramic coated Tri Ys. No fitment problems, great quality and I've had them on there since the end of 2002 and they still look great.
Seems like Doug's was bought by Pertronix. No idea if any change in quality resulted.
I did the same thing but still had to beat in one tube to clear the shower tower on a 289/TW head. For the price I expected them to fit without this need.
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66 2+2, 289 Ross, TW, CI TLSR, Victor, Demon
Just a heads up. My FPA headers are great, but another local guy who posts here bought a set that was supposed to be identical to mine (351c in a 69). The set that was shipped by FPA was different than the set I have and did not fit. FPA sent another drivers side header and that did not clear the z bar. Just be wary.....
I put the ceramic coated Hedman headers in. Got them from Summit. Fit beautifully with the AOD.
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1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust, two turtle doves, and a partridge in a pear tree.
It people says that only longtubes makes power they don't know how a header work. All the modern really high winding F1 racecars actually runs "shorty" headers because that gives them the most power.
I always liked this old compairing test from Carcraft. Especially the "Test 5/6" where the mid-length make more top end hp than the full length headers.
I bought the $189 E-Bay Stainless full length headers... Quality part, fit perfectly with zero massaging any parts at all and have not leaked a bit since I got them. I put the same brand ones on my NSX six years ago with the same experience and they still look good today. I see lots of "I'd never buy those b/c they are cheap and therefore crap" then followed by "I only had to bend a few things and hit my $1000 headers a few times to fit!! Soooo happy!!" Take it for what ya want.
__________________ The beatings will continue until morale improves!
One Man, One Arm, One Car...
(and one laptop to Google "How-To everything"...
1965 Fastback which I restomodded/murdered in my garage...
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