68 Shock Towers on a 65...

[tarafied1]

I purchased a ratty 65 coupe for pennies and I had a 68 Fastback that I sold to a guy for the roof. I have what's left. The 65 is rotted away on the shock towers and frame, the 68 was still pretty solid there (only there). SO I am doing a 68 swap onto the 65.
I know I need the 68 suspension (UCA, LCA, Spindles, drag link). The 68 drag link for the 68 is different at the pitman arm than the 65, can I use a 68 arm on the 65 gearbox?


I have the front clip cut off the 68 and I'm preparing the 65

65 rust



68 clip

[tarafied1]

here is the 65



and here is whats left of the 68

[Maxum96]

I'm not sure it'll work. 65-66 Mustangs were very different in the engine compartment and suspension pieces from a 67-70 Mustangs.

[Texastang]

Personally, I would rather put some cheap aftermarket '65 shock towers on it than those '68 towers. This is a serious structural part of the vehicle and going with a mismatched piece that may not have been engineered properly for that car.

Obviously I would recommend the best possible towers money can buy, just throwing out the "cheap aftermarket '65 shock towers" to emphasize even they would be a better choice than improper shock towers.

[Huskinhano]

Supershifter is the guy to ask. He's done this already. Send im a PM if he doesn't see this post.

[tarafied1]

I appreciate your concern.
However, they will work, the frame rails are identical. The width of the 65/66 and 67/68 frame rails are the same as well. They are Ford shock towers, better than aftermarket. The reason the 67/68 could fit a big block is the design of the shock towers move the track width 1" wider on each side. That's why I need to use the 68 suspension as well. This is not a mismatch or hack job. The Boss 429 had special shock towers, there are kits to notch the shock towers, there are even kits to put Mustang II suspension on these cars. It will look factory and be just as good as any other 68. I can compensate for the track width with the BS/offset of the wheels. I will be able to put a big block in if I want and it will all be Ford parts.
So now, back to the original question, it is my understanding the steering gearboxes have different diameter shafts. Does any body know if a 68 pitman arm will fit on a 65 gearbox?
I can probably swap in a 68 Collapsible column and 68 gearbox while I am at it.

[tarafied1]

I should add that this has been done before so I am not inventing anything. Just utilizing parts I have to save an old horse.
From what I could find out surfing the interweb, 65 thru early 67 used a 1" shaft and late 67 thru 70 used a 1 1/8" so maybe I could find an early 67 arm. I think I will just go with the 68 column and gearbox.
Now to find some Granada spindles...

[yellowoctupus]

I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but I think if I was replacing that much of the front sheet metal, I'd just put in new metal and a MSII style front end. Opens up your engine options (mod motors etc).

Good luck if you do get that 68 front end grafted in, that would be a trip if it dropped right in place.

[Lukesportsman]

I have an early 67 steering assembly I don't need. Long steering shaft/box. You can have what I have/you need for price of shipping. LMK, though honestly going to be too cold for next 2 days for me to care and look in barn. LOL Steering column ugly, but there, but its a power setup down low. Just offering a hand if it could possibly help you. I actually like what your doing beyond the nasayers though I'd probably go the easier route they listed. Just not as brave I guess............so sick of rust repair.

[latoracing]

I think it is cool! As long as the '68 towers are in good condition, and you can do the work, go for it! I don't like using the Mustang II type front suspension (my opinion), the '68 stuff would make people go, how did he fit a FE in a '65? (if you ran one), it will get alot of looks. I am wondering if you will have to modify the radiator support a bunch to work with the '68 pannels though. If you are going to the trouble to use '68 suspension, just use all of it, maby easier in the long run. I would like to try this myself, it would be fun! Get started, and show a bunch of pics!

[tarafied1]

Thanks for the support and offers. I am not on any deadline so it's just so I have something to do in my spare time. I was also inspired by yellowoctopus' $1,000 challenge. I paid $600 for the 65 and I have nothing in the 68. I traded some labor for a T5 and I have accumulated tons of 67/68 Mustang parts over the past 30 years. I'm hoping to swap/barter for a lot of what I need to make it a roller. It is going to be a fun project.
I have already begun cutting off the rust...

[tarafied1]

I drilled holes thru the frame where there were two in the shock tower. I'm going to use those as locator holes. I started to clean up the right side of the frame.


Now I am going to clean up the left side. The outer frame rail is in good shape so I am going to save it and separate the outer off of the 68. Then I can slide the inner assembly into place.
Not sure if you all can follow what I'm saying but when I get there the pics will make sense. here is a pic of me drilling alignment holes from the original "inner" to the outer rail (which I will keep).

[tarafied1]

I am no professional but I did already replace the whole front clip on my 67 back in 06 or 07 and it hasn't fallen apart yet.
on that car I used all repop stuff

[tarafied1]

Oh, and I am and going to replace the radiator core support on the 68 frame with a 65 repop. I will wait until I have the frame section in place. Then weld a temporary brace across it. I'm also using the 65 repop aprons. The 68 aprons were shot and probably wouldn't have matched the fenders correctly.
I probably will have more than a $1,000 in it but I'm hoping to keep it under $5,000
Then I am going to use it a the local drag strip and who knows where the budget will go from there.

[tarafied1]

so the 65 is cleaned up, alignment holes drilled. now I will prep the 68 rails