I have a pretty long list of wish mods. Sum of em
Have been mentioned. Paint bumpers, trim, tailight surrounds. Need a new tank, think ill have a cap mounted directly on tank n do away with filler neck. & looks like ill have to make the delete panel for the air controls since I cant find anyone that makes em. Would love to cut off the drip rails & install modern glue in glass
My list of planned mods is also quite long, but since I'm rebuilding the car from the ground up, why not?
302 roller block from a 94 GT with 93 Cobra iron heads and 1.7 rockers (converted to carburetor)
T-5 transmission from the same 94 GT
8.8" rear axle (with disk brakes) from the same 94 GT
Front accessories for the same 94 GT (only alternator, power steering pump and water pump)
(I may have to relocate the PS pump when I get the Vintage Air setup, then I will need a custom A/C compressor bracket)
Power mirrors (electronics sourced from, you guessed it, the same 94 GT)
Taillight lighting improvement
Complete chassis wiring
Front disk brake calipers (sourced from a 2003 Crown Victoria) with 94-04 Cobra rotors
Electric fan (sourced from a 90-95 Ford Taurus 3.8L V6)
Gauge cluster upgrade.
Power door locks
Check out Popular Hot Rodding, Aug 2009, Pg 35, upper right corner!
My budget makes a shoe-string budget look like Warren Buffett's personal checking account.
That body is really nice, what color is that paint?
I'm assuming you are referring to me. It's emberglo (details in the PM I sent you).
Originally Posted by Zimbo
Any info on how you did this? I wanted to do the same to my 67 vert so I don't have to stop for gas as much
+1 on what kwkenf said - it's basically a drop-in swap. If I had to drill mounting bolt holes, it wasn't more than 1 or 2 - the majority of them line up just fine. You have to use the 1970 sending unit if you want the gas gauge to be accurate (well, at least as accurate as it can be for a gas gauge). The other sending units will physically fit, but your gauge will stay on "full" longer. The only downside to the whole swap is that the 1970 gas tank sticks up a few inches into the trunk, so you'll lose a little trunk space - that's probably not a big deal for about 99.99% of us. The filler neck can basically just be cutoff a little bit.
For the steel plate, I measured the outside dimensions of the top of the tank and had a steel fabrication shop bend it to my specs. I welded some flat plate along the front and back edges to box it all in. Underneath, I used some angle iron that I drilled & tapped for bolts to hold the whole thing together - the trunk floor and gas tank are sandwiched by 1/4" thick steel. I got the idea from looking at a product called Tank Armor - I saved some money by doing most of it myself, plus I got thicker metal. The armor serves 2 purposes - 1 is to prevent puncturing the tank by accidentally dropping something on top, and 2 is to hopefully prevent the tank from rupturing and spraying fuel all over the inside of the trunk in the even of a rear end collision.
Tank installed prior to steel plate:
Steel plate bolted in place:
'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration in progress
5.0 EFI conversion
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC
'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 01-23-2013 at 12:05 AM.
I bought this to do a few mods to. Someone got started and must have gotten scared, or tired of it. Any way, 2" wider inner wheel houses installed, so I can run some 335-30-18's out back. Have a full Street or Track suspension system being built, (coil overs, full floater housing, 13" front brakes...). More mods to come, like convertable inner rockers, one piece seat riser, all the under floor bracing, full cage, shaved drip rails, flush mounted glass, 5-speed, and a "R" model front valance with splitter. This is going to take me forever, but will be fun!
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