408 stroker build - Page 4 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #46 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 09:16 PM
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7 grand and you can get a tci fully programmable GM six speed automatic TCI 271601P4 TCI 6X Six Speed Transmissions

I've had my lentech AOD for 7-8 years and never had a problem in fact I've never even changed the fluid.
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post #47 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 09:25 PM
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that would be sick... especially if you want a 9 second car and still be able to do 160+ on the highway..lol

1968 Coupe, forged roller 408, AFR 205's, custom Comp roller cam, FAST EFI 2.0, Headman headers w/ full stainless steel Flowmaster system, FAST Dual Sync Billet ignition, MSD Blaster coil w/ CDI box & rev limiter, Holley elec fuel system, PA C4 w/4000 stall, Ford 9 inch (Yukon bolt through case w/ 4.11, Billet Detroit locker, 35 spline forged axles), NOS, MT ET Streets, Denny's Alum Drive Shaft.
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post #48 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Now THAT is sexy. Wouldn't that be a mild form of blasphemy though?

"Smile there's always somebody that's got it worse... like your neighbor that drives a chevy"
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post #49 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 09:52 PM
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Nah! we are talking "mod and customs" I don't even have a problem if someone puts an LS motor or a Cummins in their stang. Imagine a 6cyl sleeper with a 600hp 1000ftlb cummins under the hood, 10 sec 35 mpg stang.

Last edited by htwheelz67; 10-16-2013 at 10:36 PM.
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post #50 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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I've seen a 4bt cummins in either a chevele or a Camaro, I don't remember which one it was though. That was a bad cat, but just imagine all the frontend work it would take for a mustang to even think about holding a 1200lb engine up off the ground.

"Smile there's always somebody that's got it worse... like your neighbor that drives a chevy"
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post #51 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 11:06 PM
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I wouldn't buy anything from TCI.
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post #52 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 11:07 PM
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Ok an aluminum VW taureg 5.0 v-10 diesel, I have dreamed of doing an old 60's car with a modern turbo diesel, funny thing I bought a diesel pup back in 06 yeah a duramax LBZ (the 6.0 ford sucked and the dodge well was a dodge)and put exhaust and a real high hp tuner on it, all of a sudden my roller cammed TW headed 67 mustang vert didn't feel so fast that is basically why I yanked the perfect running 351 and built a 408. It is amazing how fast you can make a 7500 lb diesel pup go and my normal 75-85 mph 260 mile cruise from Parker AZ to OC CA always yields no less than 17.5 mpgs. My 3/4 ton diesel is my economy car..........
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post #53 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 12:24 AM
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The Ford 6.0 did have issues from the factory, but once you fix them, it's a great diesel powerplant.
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post #54 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 12:53 AM
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Sure if you "bulletproof them" at some big bux, 7.3 is the beast for longevity, 6.4 compound turbo is the new monster eating the cummins but a fuel sucker with theDPF, 6.7 we will see.
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post #55 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 09:11 AM
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I wouldn't trade my 7.3 for any of them. I've watched my dad and brother both dump money into their broken Duramax/Allison's, yet the 'ol 7.3 just keeps going.
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post #56 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 12:32 AM
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Back to the original thread, build the 408 from the bottom up, its much easier to change intakes than cams and pistons, much easier to do power adders when the bottom is set up for it, a trans swap is a no brainer, with 500hp or more I am more concerned with suspension and brakes. If your gonna go fast gotta stop fast and handle the hp, a 350hp engine will go faster than a 500 hp engine if you can hook up, a 450hp engine with traction and 50 ft lbs more TQ and hp below 5000 will go faster than a 500 hp/tq engine past 5000 with the right gears and will be more drivable. Peak hp does not always mean faster and rarely means more streetable. The more low end TQ and HP you make the the better on a street car.
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post #57 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 03:35 PM
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I see people get talked into things they don't need way too often. A good aftermarket CAST crank is stronger than a stock block, and a forged crank is not needed an any stock block build, because the block itself is the weak link. Prepping the block with good hardware and keeping cap walk to a minimum is the key to making the engine live. Not a forged crank. H beam rods are heavy, and not needed. The heavier the rotating mass, the harder it is on the block, and it will slow the acceleration.

Keep the suspension basic. I run a completely stock front end, with Calvert 90/10s, and Caltracs on the rear. My POS is pushing in the 800 hp range, with one of those junky ol cast cranks and I beam rods. I shift it at 6400 RPMs, I drive the car 7000 miles a year, and it has excellent street manners. It has cut 1.29 60's, with basically stock suspension, and has been 6.12, which is a mid 9. The car has been running solid for over 2 years, and I beat the crap out of it. Don't believe everything you read on the internet about buying products that you don't need. Keep it simple.
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post #58 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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yeah the stopping/steering/suspension will be taken care of before it sees any real drive time. As of right now I've already converted the front to discs and will be doing the same to the rear once the drive line is done. I've also already built export braces and monte carlo bar for the car. Sub frame connectors and tying the frame together laterally is also in the plan. I know most people stop with just the sub frame connectors but I feel like connecting the 2 sides would be beneficial since an engine doesn't twist on the car from front to rear so much as it does side to side (watch what the engine does when you romp on the throttle). I'm not looking to do anything to crazy like a 4 link rear or coilovers in the front but I will be getting all new springs and good shocks all the way around. something else I was debating on is whether or not to go with caltracs or traction bars. I've heard good and bad about both.

"Smile there's always somebody that's got it worse... like your neighbor that drives a chevy"
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post #59 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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As for prepping the block I feel like Jim at fordstrokers knows what he is doing. Part of that comes from the fact that I have seen ONE bad review of his business and that was old news from dealings with a former business partner. That and the fact that he had no problem whatsoever meeting with me to "talk shop" and he has an online tour of his shop posted on the website. that tells me he has nothing to hide as far a questionable build practices goes or farming out major parts of the build.

"Smile there's always somebody that's got it worse... like your neighbor that drives a chevy"
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post #60 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 06:55 PM
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You know what's funny? Jim is also the one that talked me out of putting a forged crank and H beams in mine, and I told him up front that I was going to spray it, and my engine was more agressive off the bottle than yours seems to be. I called him and told him I wanted a forged crank, and H beams, yet he talked me out of it. Maybe he needs more money than he did 2 years ago........



My engine now makes considerably more power with the exact same parts as it had when it came from Jim, since we rebuilt it locally because my engine had ring issues from fordstrokers. This goes right along with what I said in the last post about Internet engine building. Just do your homework. It really seems that you just want people to tell you what you want to hear, and if it doesn't follow along those lines then you don't care. I don't say that to be rude, but it's just how it appears. Be careful on the Internet.

Last edited by sportsroof69; 10-19-2013 at 07:12 PM.
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