Guys, I have caltracs on my 68 and they are pretty stinkin' noisy over bumps when there is no preload (for street driving). I purchased some nifty rod end rubber boots that Seals-It makes however they don't fit great but I'm trying them on one side to see if it helps.
The problem is the rod end when not preloaded can twist and on the heim joint smacks the bolt or spacers so you get this LOUD metal on metal clank. I also get this on my bump steer setup on my rack and pinion setup in the front (will try the boots on there too).
Anyone have any issues with this and a possible fix to reduce the noise? I saw someone say to put heater hose over the bolt but looking at my setup not sure how one would even go about that.
Not sure what to say about the Caltracs but I do have a question on the bump steer. What kit are you using? I'm using Bear with my R&P setup and I have no noise what so ever. I even used Bear before my R&P upgrade and didn't have noise either.
On my 70 Mustang I also have caltracs and on the street keep just a small air gap between the leaf and the cross tube and there is no clunking, similar as to how they tell you to initially set them up. When driving it, including some large bumps on my road, and I do not hear any bangs.
Quickturbo, they do not show a specific street setu in the install indfo. In the install, for initial setup, they state to allow for a "small" airgap to start with. Then once the car has the full load, including the driver, to set the pre-load by adjusting the transfer link till the roll pin just makes contact with the leaf upper surface. Needs to be done on both sides first. Then to get a baseline, lengthen the rod 1/4 turn. Once you dial everything in, the preload should never exceed 1 full turn.
Also when I was on the phone with them a few weeks back talking about my car, they provided the following:
Fully loaded car with driver
- If you have the Caltracs with 2 holes, select the hole that is most parallel to the car.
- On the Caltracs after the bar contacts the leaf spring, add 1/4 turn of preload.
- Their rear 9 way adjustable shocks use setting #7 both sides.
- If car pulls to one side, increase the preload on that side 1-2 flats.
- If car spins of the line, then need to address tires/launch RPMs.
- If car hooks then breaks, add 1-2 flats of additional pre-load on both sides.
Hope this helps,
Originally Posted by quikturbo
kwkenf- I have the aeroform r&p so they provide a bump steer kit with it. I feel like the joints on the front are somewhat sloppy. I think the front will be better with these boots so we'll see.
app01- I'll have to go back to their docs to make sure I had it set for street. I'll report back on that and if I still have an issue I'll try to figure out the "heater hose" trick.
You very well can. According to Calvert it just makes the ride a little stiffer and if you have bumpy roads, such as here in New England you feel the bumps more. Once I have mine dialed in at the track, I plan on leaving it that way all the time and deal with the harder ride.
my brackets are different in the front due to the reverse eye spring. I don't have that pin, but from what I can see there is a steel piece that is actually a part of the bracket itself that seems like it may serve as that stop. Anyone know for sure?
Looking at the pics if that bracket twists up maybe that is what is causing a noise and hitting the floor.
when in doubt, call the manufacturer just spoke with them and that flat piece across the top is in fact the stop (like the pin on the other brackets). I asked if it was ok to drive around with some preload to avoid the clunking and he indicated he's driven around for 10+ yrs with a 1/4 turn on the street just fine. I'm ok with the ride quality decreasing ever so slightly however if it's really noticeable I'll have to deal with the clunking of a non-preloaded setup.
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