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My 65 fastback build (mini tub, vert rocker, floor pan)

25K views 128 replies 31 participants last post by  Riley 
#1 ·
I'd like to share some of progress I've made on my car. The car started as a T code 65 fastback driver that I enjoyed for several years before getting into autocross with my other cars. This will document my v8 engine swap, vert inner rocker and torque box install, mini tub, one piece floor pans, transition pan, and trunk replacement. It all started several winters ago when I began replacing all the front suspension components with new v8 items:


The wheels shown on the rear are 18x8 coddingtons left over from another project, they will go onto the front I just have them mocked to start on my 9" conversion:
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Here you can see the new control arms in place with the old garbage on the floor:

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Lower control arm bushings are urethane as well as the spring perch rollers. Springs are 620s from street or track.

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Brakes are 13" 03-04 cobra and the adapters I got from mustang Steve. The rotors and calipers were sourced from late model restoration. They came red so they got some high temp caliper paint in black:

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Hubs are drum brake replacements that I pressed new studs into:

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I shaved the grill ornament off and replaced it with a 66 center piece for a more intimidating look:

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After the brake install and taking 1/3 coil out of the springs, the front wheels were bolted up:

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I got some high temp pony decals for the calipers. Nice touch I thought:

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#84 ·
I'm not at home but I think the fronts are a 225/45/r18. Front wheels are 18x7 can't remember the offset. Rears are 18x9 with 5.625" backspacing with 275/40/r18.

I could measure the front wheel backspacing if you'd like next time I get a chance.

Couple pics I snapped outside when I took the above video:

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#88 ·
The lift is a 2 post MaxJax made by danmar. It is a mid rise lift and can be unbolted from the floor and moved out of the way. I think I gave around $2400 shipped to my door off amazon. It been a great lift. I have a 10' ceiling but my openers for my overhead door are only 8.5' or so and I can lift my car all the way up and didn't have to touch my door opener or tracks. You can't stand under the car obviously but I can sit down and the lift is always saving me time and headaches.
 
#91 ·
I was thinking about running open pipes too, but I'm going to use the side exhaust like the GT350's and that would probably get old.

The 69 Camaro Z28 used a chambered exhaust which is pretty close to open headers...Might be a way to get those made up so I can splice them into the side exit option. I know a few guys who run this type of their Cobra replica.
Classic Chambered Exhaust Inc. - FAQ
 
#94 · (Edited)
Yes. Rear lip rolled. Narrowed leaf springs and a mini tub all for the sake of the 275 tires. 275 might not seem like much but in a 65/66 with full interior and stock suspension attachment points it's about as much as it gets.

When I began building the car, SCCA rules stated I needed stock attachment points to stay in the class I wanted to race in. They have since added a new class and I could run a 3 link now if I wanted. Go figure. I'd still be limited by my interior panels though as I'm not willing to give up my fold down rear seat.
 
#98 · (Edited)
After welding in the dual exhaust brackets inside the frame rails, the frame rails were epoxied inside and prepped for new trunk drop downs and rear crossmember:

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Weld through primer where all the panels meet:

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Panels were then rosette welded in the factory locations:

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Still need to sand with 80 grit, 2 coats of epoxy and seam seal in these pics.
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Note that the vert rockers, floor, transition pan, trunk drop downs and more have all been replaced. Zero filler. No converters. No extra seams. Just full panel replacement welded in the factory locations

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#100 · (Edited)
Here's a couple pics of the custom centercap a I've been working on. I still need to add a taper inside and out but this is a test fit before the taper is added. Once they are tapered they won't chuck up in the lathe to machine the small end so this was a trial fit:

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Again these will be tapered to mimic the factory centercap.

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#102 · (Edited)
I rolled some SPI epoxy on the bottom of the car to finish out the rest of what will be red oxide after finishing welding up the trunk dropdowns and rear crossmember:











Random pics of the bottom of the car:











Note: the first pics taken above of the rear of the car were taken when the epoxy was still drying. It's less red and shiny once it dries. Still need to seam seal some parts of the bottom.
 
#103 · (Edited)
So here is what the centercaps looked like before adding the tapers (note running horse on caliper):







Some aluminum cuttings under the lathe:



And this is what they look like with the tapers added inside and out:







I think this is a higher res pic than what I posted earlier of the car rolled outside (using tapatalk instead of AutoGuide):



I'll probably try a few different things with the tires eventually. They aren't for everyone but I'm digging them. I realize it would be probably more acceptable with a Firestone, Bridgestone, or Goodyear but My Japanese tires will do for now. I've contemplated possibly painting on red lines to mimic the old school ones instead of white letters also. Once the centercaps are installed with the red medallions I think it would be a cool look.
 
#105 ·
Thanks caper. There's actually quite a bit of detail going on with the wheels/tires. The rear wheels are custom offset 18x9s that I had to measure to fit and have custom made. The 9" wheel required a narrowed leaf spring, mini tub, and rolled rear lip. A 275 tire with stock suspension attachment points and leaf springs is actually quite a lot of tire in the 65/66 world.

For finish on the wheels I painted the spokes the cast gray color and also sanded the outer lip with 180 grit leaving the inside lip polished for 3 different finishes on the wheel. The calipers and center of the rotors have been painted black and running horse high temp sticker added to the caliper. The painted tires were my doing and the custom centercaps were made to use the medallion from a different set of caps for a different wheel altogether. In other words it wasn't take out of box, bolt on, and go so I appreciate it man.
 
#106 · (Edited)
Here's something for you fastback guys running convertible inner rockers I haven't seen mentioned so I thought I'd post. The vert inner rocker interferes with the interior panels and must be trimmed. Original panel on the left. The one on the right has been trimmed to fit not to mention soda blasted lightly in prep for paint. I used a previous owners paint job almost as a high build primer and 'blended' some imperfections with the blaster while retaining the original grain pattern. I'll still have a couple areas I need to smooth out slightly before painting them 65 ford medium blue:









Here's a pic of the offset spacers used to keep the narrowed leaf springs on the inside of their perches:



 
#109 ·
Wow long time no updates so I thought I'd upload a few pics off my phone. Here are some pics of the prep I did for my mini tub:



This pic is the drivers side taken from inside the trunk:



Driver side view looking up through the wheelwell. You can see the holes I punched so I can rosette weld the tub in:







Here they are being welded up. These are Detroit Speed engineering tubs and are designed to tub 3" per side and be used in conjunction with moving the inner framerails in. I didn't do that because I want to keep my fold down rear seat. The way I trimmed mine I gained 1.75" at the front of the tire and about .75" at axle centerline. The front is where you'll need to add the most room. Any more at axle centerline and my interior panels wouldn't fit and my tire would be hitting my narrowed leaf spring anyway:

From the trunk:





 
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