Replacing headers on a 69/ 390 - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 2011apex View Post
you might have problems on the drivers side with the steering box and the slave cylinder. I've never tried bolting them on first then lowering it in but then again i don't have the 390 either. I'm just replacing my headers on my Cleveland but it's not as tight as yours. I removed the slave cylinder and the cross brace/support to give me more room underneathe along with the engine mount bolts and the tranny bolts so i can jack up the motor one side at a time to give me more room. i also bent a wrench so i could reach the hard ones directly in front of the shock towers. good luck
Can't comment on the slave cylinder as I have manual steering. I didn't have to much trouble with the steering box but I did have to turn the wheels to allow me to clear the idler arm.

The passenger side I couldn't get in from underneath, no matter what angle I tried the header wouldn't go in between the bell housing (where the starter mounts) & frame rail. I've read that it can be done by taking the passenger side motor mount loose & jacking up on that side of the motor to tilt it but I've never tried.

I really don't like to "cut up" these old cars but after test fitting the headers I decided that I will be notching the towers, if Ford & Kar Kraft could do it for the Boss 9's then why not.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 02:27 PM
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I'll be surprised if that will fit back in there with both headers on. Try it and see I guess. If not, remove the passenger side header and lay it in the engine compartment close to where it goes, then lower the engine in. This is how I do it, but I have a 351W in mine. The drivers side header is impossible to get at all the bolts in the car, so I bolt it on out of the car.

69 Mach 1, 351W, T5, owned for 29 years, 03 Mach 1 Azure Blue, 65 fastback, 289, C4 (son's), 67 fastback, 289, C4 (wife's)
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 03:30 PM
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Installation Progress?

Any updates on installation? I like the look of these. I am leaning towards the JBA's if I get headers.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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By far the toughest thing I've had to do to a car. three of us started after lunch and by 4 we had it in. I did not loosen the headers (worried about future gasket leaks) plus I'm not sure how you would ever get in to tighten bolts. I did remove the idle arm bracket, and turned the wheels to get the idler arm out of the way. We had to reposition the lift and angle of the motor several times and I did raise the rear of the car (not sure if it helped but I was trying anything).
I also had to get a longer reach engine hoist.

Its all down hill from here, I cant wait to get it fired up.

Last edited by OldToys; 09-12-2015 at 05:02 PM.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 09:18 AM
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390 Header Install

Looks good. Do you think you have enough clearance so that the header flanges won't hit the towers? Can you run an h-pipe or x-pipe into the transmission or drive-shaft tunnel with these headers?
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Looks good. Do you think you have enough clearance so that the header flanges won't hit the towers? Can you run an h-pipe or x-pipe into the transmission or drive-shaft tunnel with these headers?
It clears the towers but only 1/8" at most. I'm not sure what the headers have to do with the x-pipe but there is plenty of room to add crossover after the headers.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 12:31 AM
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I hope that the 69 is tighter in the bay than the 67 because I'm about to try this. I just need to decide which headers. I'm leaning toward the FPA headers.
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Groundpounder17 View Post
I hope that the 69 is tighter in the bay than the 67 because I'm about to try this. I just need to decide which headers. I'm leaning toward the FPA headers.
The '67-'70 practically share the same engine bay.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 11:23 AM
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On a side note, that's a great looking engine compartment! I used to have a '69 Mach with 428, very fun to drive, but even changing the plugs was a PITA.

Matt
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 01:33 PM
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69 Wider Tower

The '69 may have a welded band on the shock tower for additional strengthening, making it tighter. But I'm not sure if it's positioned in the header flange area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpounder17 View Post
I hope that the 69 is tighter in the bay than the 67 because I'm about to try this. I just need to decide which headers. I'm leaning toward the FPA headers.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 02:09 PM
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Yes the car in the pictures here has the wraparound shock tower reinforcement. That usually causes problems with about 3 bolts, two on the passenger side and one the drivers side. Some cars have the issue others don't, depends on how tightly that plate was installed when the car went together. 67 era cars don't have that plate and thus have more room, albeit not much but in that tight an area it seems to make a huge difference when it comes to getting a bolt started. And you can get the engine in with both headers bolted on.

69 Mach One, 428CJ, Legend 5 Speed, 3.91's.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Its back together and running I could write a book on all the problems I went through to get to this point, the new starter was bad for one. Here is a short video it sounds SOOOO much better with the new headers.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 07:05 AM
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I know that this is an old post but many will search for this very issue regarding header installation in their FE Mustangs. For those of us who have an FE in our cars and are doing engine pulls for modifications or for repairs, make sure you change the plugs while the engine is out.
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