Replacing headers on a 69/ 390 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing headers on a 69/ 390

I am working on a 69 mach 1, the headers, and bolts are rusted. I'm looking for what others have done? Will just raising the engine a few inches be enough to pull them out from below? The bolts are rusted and I've already broke one so I need to find a better way to get the bolts loose. The broken bolt is on passenger side closes to the fire wall, what are the chances that I wont get a header leak if I don't have a bolt in that location.
Thanks for any replies.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 09:42 PM
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Don't know anything about removal specific to your car/engine but I'd bet just about any amount that you'll have a leak if you're missing a bolt.

1995 GT Convertible - Laser Red - 331 stroker, Kenne Bell 2.2 - 415 RWHP 396 RWTQ
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 10:35 PM
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I have a set of Hooker Super Comp Plus on my 67 fastback with an FE. About half way down the right side of the motor, I have a bottom header bolt I simply can't install. No leak but your location is different.

I would use some Kroil or PB Blaster and spray all the header bolts. Do this for 2 or 3 days to allow it to seep through the threads. Hopefully, they'll break free for you. Make sure you use anti-seize on your bolts when you reinstall em'.

I have a painted engine bay and am still not sure how I crammed that FE and headers into that small hole without as much as a scratch on the paint.

Good luck on those bolts.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 09:31 AM
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Removign Header Bolt om390 Mach 1

I have a 390 in a 67 Mustang and I can't imagine how to fix this without removing the hood, motor & transmission mounts, raising the rear of the car 12-18" and lifting the engine enough to get to the bolt. Along the way the radiator would need taking out as well. (Note: So far, everything I repair on my car seems to require the process that is the most invasive and time consuming)

I would suggest asking on the network54 FE forum. I suspect a number of members will have struggled through this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldToys View Post
I am working on a 69 mach 1, the headers, and bolts are rusted. I'm looking for what others have done? Will just raising the engine a few inches be enough to pull them out from below? The bolts are rusted and I've already broke one so I need to find a better way to get the bolts loose. The broken bolt is on passenger side closes to the fire wall, what are the chances that I wont get a header leak if I don't have a bolt in that location.
Thanks for any replies.

Last edited by jimeast; 08-31-2015 at 09:36 AM.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 03:13 PM
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Are we talking about factory headers or aftermarket?

Well anyway the FE's are the worst motors when it comes to installing exhaust manifold bolts in, especially when it comes to the CJ bolt pattern with 4 bolts per port (32 in all). This is one of (if not the main) reasons I'm going to notch my towers for the extra 3 1/4"-3 1/2".

As already mentioned I'd use PB blaster on it for a few days & take it slowly. As for a exhaust leak if I remember your main thread on this car it alreay has a bolt missing from that side so the chance for a exhaust leak is high.

1968 GT/CS clone restromod in progress of restoration being reborn with a 390FE, 4.11 limited-slip Ford 9", 17x8's Bullet edition silver matallic rims, Raven Black paint, Deluxe black interior, & to many other mods to list.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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They are after market, I am thinking about taking a sawsall and cut the header tubes out leaving only the mounting plate. At least it would be easier to get to the bolts.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 07:34 AM
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i was just going to suggest cutting up the old headers to make it easier to access the fasteners.

good luck
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-04-2015, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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I started removing the headers today, by far the hardest header R/R I've done to date. I had to cut out a tube from each side to clear the steering box and steering bracket. I'm not looking forward to replacing them and setting it back down.
Here it is ready to pull.
Its high enough to remove the bolts.

I had to heat the bolts up but as soon as they cooled to room temperature, I was able to break them loose. all but two that sheared off.

Here is one of the bolts I had to drill out the second is same side front.


Cleaned and ready for new gasket and header.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate all the replies, I have the old headers off and the new ones on. I can't believe how tight it is. Take a look at the attached pictures is this correct, are you sure I can squeeze them between?

Drivers side

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 09:20 PM
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Headers?

Are these JBA or FPA Headers? Looks great so far! Did you jack up the rear?
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 09:39 PM
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimeast View Post
Are these JBA or FPA Headers? Looks great so far! Did you jack up the rear?
Doug's headers... I have not jacked up the back but can if it will help.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 12:37 PM
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That is tight.
I've installed mine once with the headers already mounted & probably won't do it again. The guy I bought my headers from liked to pull & install his setup with only the passenger side bolted on then installed the driver side after the motor was in.

My future plan is to bolt the headers to the H-pipe then lower the motor down in between them but you are trying to get away with not having to fight the manifold bolts while its in the car...

1968 GT/CS clone restromod in progress of restoration being reborn with a 390FE, 4.11 limited-slip Ford 9", 17x8's Bullet edition silver matallic rims, Raven Black paint, Deluxe black interior, & to many other mods to list.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 01:20 PM
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you might have problems on the drivers side with the steering box and the slave cylinder. I've never tried bolting them on first then lowering it in but then again i don't have the 390 either. I'm just replacing my headers on my Cleveland but it's not as tight as yours. I removed the slave cylinder and the cross brace/support to give me more room underneathe along with the engine mount bolts and the tranny bolts so i can jack up the motor one side at a time to give me more room. i also bent a wrench so i could reach the hard ones directly in front of the shock towers. good luck
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 01:39 PM
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Installing Engine w/Transmission

Holman Moody and Shelby used to lift the back of the car to let the engine and transmission assembly slide down under the transmission tunnel better. The factory had a trench under the car for the same purpose.

The header might go in better if the bolts are loose and each header section can "fall inwards" a little until the engine is sitting on the motor mounts.

Last edited by jimeast; 09-11-2015 at 02:31 PM. Reason: spelling
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