FiTech settings, Tweaks, Adjustments - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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FiTech settings, Tweaks, Adjustments

Fitech phone support seams to be good but as each one of us call maybe we can post up our problems and there fixes to share

One of the first thing's they ask is where are the IAC steps. They should be 5-10. To adjust them down you have to open the throttle blades open. Every time you adjust the screw you have to shut off and wait like 30 sec and restart to zero the TPS.

That ISC adjustment can cure a lot of problems, stumble, starting etc

Command Center:

Another tip I got was I remarked that after shut off (10 min or so) I open gas cap to observe fuel spitting out of vent line I installed in the filler neck.

He had me check #7 on the pro tuning Fuel pump control, mine was 97%. He had me lower it to 38%. Basically the pump was running at full speed all the time and heating up the fuel in the command center. The purpose of this setting is to lower pump output for idle and low demand

Larry

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 11:39 AM
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I would love more tuning tweak information as well. I'm starting to think the pre-set settings are for the less radical or 'buff and shine' guys. There is no way I would have gotten my IAC steps correct if I didn't find that information online on another forum. That should be in their packet of tweaks to do for tuning.

On throttle, my Fitech works incredibly well. My only tuning issues at the moment are idle and deceleration. It will sometimes try to die if I don't throw it in neutral and keep the revs up after a hard acceleration followed by a hard brake. It will drop RPM's way too low. And also, I dont quite understand why it doesn't quickly keep idle RPM's the same between being in gear and being in neutral. It may take 10 seconds for it to level back out. Which may not seem like alot, but when I idle at 1k in gear and show up to a car show and put it in Park, and have it rev up to 13-1400 RPM's idle is kind of embarrassing. Carbs change RPM's between gears and neutral, FI should keep the same RPM's. Bryce tried telling me a tight converter will do that, but I have a 3000 stall converter and these RPM's will jump like crazy up and down between being in gear and neutral until it settles out. That's a lack of convenience I was hoping to gain from this unit.

My point being, I'm betting there are ways to tune it out, but I have no idea how at the moment.

Chaz

'71 Fastback
9in 31 spline 4.30 Winters Performance True Trac, 4r70w manual valve body and hardened gear set, 408w with 225 High Ports, FTI Solid Roller cam, Super Vic; Aluminum MMC driveshaft, 3" Exhaust.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 11:40 AM
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Hopefully they will get a forum going. The system is very good at self learning and set up, but instructions in "laymans" terms would help those that barely getting into fuel injection.

1965 Mustang Fastback- 349 clutch killer, 70MM turbo,FiTech Go EFI 8, TMI Sport XR interior,Centerforce DIYAD,18" TSW, Master Power big brakes
Super Ford Magazine cover '99
Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Cover '00
Modified Mustang and Fast Ford cover '11
Power & Performance 6/15
SEMA 2014 and SEMA 2017

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1966 VW Fastback- 17" 8 Spokes, 2276cc cruiser
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 11:45 AM
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Also, Grabber Blu, are you using a relay of any type for your fuel pump electrical hookup? I'm doubting it since you have a Command Center, but I have read on other forums that these FiTech units will PWM the fuel pump. Doing that with a relay needs a solid state relay, which I am ordering right now. If you use a regular relay, your pump will pump at 100% and only be regulated by the internal regulator. I think having the fuel pump PWM is a huge advantage that I haven't seen talked about on this forum. But I have to use a relay since my pump is in the rear and it's a pretty strong pump and I don't quite feel comfortable running a 14g whire to the rear of the car to run the fuel pump.

Chaz

'71 Fastback
9in 31 spline 4.30 Winters Performance True Trac, 4r70w manual valve body and hardened gear set, 408w with 225 High Ports, FTI Solid Roller cam, Super Vic; Aluminum MMC driveshaft, 3" Exhaust.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrackrStang71 View Post
I would love more tuning tweak information as well. I'm starting to think the pre-set settings are for the less radical or 'buff and shine' guys. There is no way I would have gotten my IAC steps correct if I didn't find that information online on another forum. That should be in their packet of tweaks to do for tuning.

On throttle, my Fitech works incredibly well. My only tuning issues at the moment are idle and deceleration. It will sometimes try to die if I don't throw it in neutral and keep the revs up after a hard acceleration followed by a hard brake. It will drop RPM's way too low. And also, I dont quite understand why it doesn't quickly keep idle RPM's the same between being in gear and being in neutral. It may take 10 seconds for it to level back out. Which may not seem like alot, but when I idle at 1k in gear and show up to a car show and put it in Park, and have it rev up to 13-1400 RPM's idle is kind of embarrassing. Carbs change RPM's between gears and neutral, FI should keep the same RPM's. Bryce tried telling me a tight converter will do that, but I have a 3000 stall converter and these RPM's will jump like crazy up and down between being in gear and neutral until it settles out. That's a lack of convenience I was hoping to gain from this unit.

My point being, I'm betting there are ways to tune it out, but I have no idea how at the moment.

Chaz
From what I saw FiTech do on my car was open the butterflies a little. I would get under boost and let off and it would drop the idle while coasting. They gave a 1/4 turn and the solved the issue. Reset the TPS by turning the key off for a little while to relearn the new position and reset the IAC.

1965 Mustang Fastback- 349 clutch killer, 70MM turbo,FiTech Go EFI 8, TMI Sport XR interior,Centerforce DIYAD,18" TSW, Master Power big brakes
Super Ford Magazine cover '99
Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Cover '00
Modified Mustang and Fast Ford cover '11
Power & Performance 6/15
SEMA 2014 and SEMA 2017

2006 Ford F250-10" lift, King Coil overs, 6000 watt stereo, 370 rwhp/722 ft lbs tq, smoking 38's and rolling coal

1966 VW Fastback- 17" 8 Spokes, 2276cc cruiser
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 12:24 PM
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I had the stall thing going on as well as i would put the car in neutral and cruise to red lights. I ignored it and it has gone away which makes me believe that the system learned my driving style and adjusted. I notice now that my idle is a bit higher then it was before. I guess i need to take the console out of hiding and pay attention to the dashboard to see if its making adjustments.

Steve E.
1965 Wimbledon White Vert.
T5, FiTech EFI, Borgeson Power Steering ,Ididit tilt, Street or track 4 wheel disc, coil overs, 3 link rear, 3G alternator, Custom sound system
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 12:53 PM
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My car runs rich and stumbles (about 10 AFR) if i step on the gas below 2500 rpm . Above 2500 the AFR goes back to 13-14 and it pulls strong, so I am thinking that I need to adjust the accelerator pump settings.

By the way, my handheld controller died, all I get is a white screen. I called Fi Tech and they are sending me a new one.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by v1rotate View Post
My car runs rich and stumbles (about 10 AFR) if i step on the gas below 2500 rpm . Above 2500 the AFR goes back to 13-14 and it pulls strong, so I am thinking that I need to adjust the accelerator pump settings.

By the way, my handheld controller died, all I get is a white screen. I called Fi Tech and they are sending me a new one.
I leave my screen always plugged in, but the one time I unplugged it to move it, it went to a white screen, but must have reset itself. Hasn't did it since.

1965 Mustang Fastback- 349 clutch killer, 70MM turbo,FiTech Go EFI 8, TMI Sport XR interior,Centerforce DIYAD,18" TSW, Master Power big brakes
Super Ford Magazine cover '99
Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Cover '00
Modified Mustang and Fast Ford cover '11
Power & Performance 6/15
SEMA 2014 and SEMA 2017

2006 Ford F250-10" lift, King Coil overs, 6000 watt stereo, 370 rwhp/722 ft lbs tq, smoking 38's and rolling coal

1966 VW Fastback- 17" 8 Spokes, 2276cc cruiser
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 04:21 PM
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See, are the IAC steps suppose to be set 5-10 while in park idle or in gear idle? Bc it changes depending on which.

Also, there are adjustments for the rear butterflies. I asked Bryce and he said I could open them, maybe. He didn't have a solid answer like "yes, you should have the front and rears open evenly." Or "No, it doesn't matter."

Because I want my large solid roller to idle at 1000k, it requires the front butterflies to open a lot to make the iac steps 5-10. I may start over and adjust them equally and see if that helps.

Also, has anyone changed the prime shot number? Mines at like 250. I've read some guys on other sites have brought it way down to around 50. Sometimes it takes a bit to start. Sometimes it fires right off.

Chaz
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrackrStang71 View Post

On throttle, my Fitech works incredibly well. My only tuning issues at the moment are idle and deceleration. It will sometimes try to die if I don't throw it in neutral and keep the revs up after a hard acceleration followed by a hard brake. It will drop RPM's way too low. And also, I dont quite understand why it doesn't quickly keep idle RPM's the same between being in gear and being in neutral. It may take 10 seconds for it to level back out. Which may not seem like alot, but when I idle at 1k in gear and show up to a car show and put it in Park, and have it rev up to 13-1400 RPM's idle is kind of embarrassing. Carbs change RPM's between gears and neutral, FI should keep the same RPM's. Bryce tried telling me a tight converter will do that, but I have a 3000 stall converter and these RPM's will jump like crazy up and down between being in gear and neutral until it settles out. That's a lack of convenience I was hoping to gain from this unit.

My point being, I'm betting there are ways to tune it out, but I have no idea how at the moment.

Chaz

There is Decel RPM Decay to slow RPM drop (raising the value slows the drop), I increased the value because I would drop past idle and the back to normal idle. It's a 5 speed so it wouldn't stall but it wasn't right.

If you raise the Decel Decay to slow the RPM drop. If you adjust the Decel Decay you have to adjust Decel IAC decay it has to be adjusted a fraction of a step. Seems if you adjust the first one to 10 the other one would be .1

Larry

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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The IAC steps 5-10 are in park/neutral.

I don't run a relay for the Command Center because they don"t require it

Larry

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blu View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrackrStang71 View Post

On throttle, my Fitech works incredibly well. My only tuning issues at the moment are idle and deceleration. It will sometimes try to die if I don't throw it in neutral and keep the revs up after a hard acceleration followed by a hard brake. It will drop RPM's way too low. And also, I dont quite understand why it doesn't quickly keep idle RPM's the same between being in gear and being in neutral. It may take 10 seconds for it to level back out. Which may not seem like alot, but when I idle at 1k in gear and show up to a car show and put it in Park, and have it rev up to 13-1400 RPM's idle is kind of embarrassing. Carbs change RPM's between gears and neutral, FI should keep the same RPM's. Bryce tried telling me a tight converter will do that, but I have a 3000 stall converter and these RPM's will jump like crazy up and down between being in gear and neutral until it settles out. That's a lack of convenience I was hoping to gain from this unit.

My point being, I'm betting there are ways to tune it out, but I have no idea how at the moment.

Chaz

There is Decel RPM Decay to slow RPM drop (raising the value slows the drop), I increased the value because I would drop past idle and the back to normal idle. It's a 5 speed so it wouldn't stall but it wasn't right.

If you raise the Decel Decay to slow the RPM drop. If you adjust the Decel Decay you have to adjust Decel IAC decay it has to be adjusted a fraction of a step. Seems if you adjust the first one to 10 the other one would be .1
Thanks for that info. I'll try it out. Bryce suggested I add more fuel to the DFCO, since the unit cuts all fuel when decelerating/coasting, as all modern FI units do today (while in gear). But it didn't change anything for me, the RPMs still drop way below idle on hard decelerations.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 05:26 PM
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Hi everyone,

Another forum has a standard template started for settings and adjustments for their FiTech installation and figured maybe we could start the same in addition to problems within this forum. This may help those having issues with starting up/running/initial setup overall.

Template could be as follows (stolen from Chevelle forum but tailored to fit my car):

ENGINE SIZE/ SPECs:
331 stroker with 4340 eagle crank, 4340 h-beam rods, SRP forged flat top pistons, Ex-282-Hr comp cam with HR lifters, ported Edelbrock performer rpm alum. heads, comp roller rockers, comp push rods

FITECH SETUP USED:

GO EFI-4, 600hp Power Adder (no timing control yet / controlling electric fan)

FUEL SYSTEM:
255 Walboro in-line pump
Sump on 70' tank (20 gallon)
6AN feed/return

ENGINE VACUUM:
9 in gear, 10-11 Park

CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND SPECS:
3 runs the best on my car
232/240@.050, 112lsa

IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise
3-7 in Park

TIMING CONTROL: Y/N?
No. Using MSD pro-billet w/20* bushing (mechcanical)
34 degrees total by 3000rpm,
14 degrees initial,


IDLE RPM:
860

TARGET IDLE AFR:
14.0:1

ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS & WHY:
(copied one persons settings from the Chevelle forum and seemed to worked great for my application!)

-Added 14 to LOOP rate up and LOOP rate down IAC settings (IDLE CONTROL), which (when revved, or warm started) allows and helps get a quicker return down to my commanded idle rpm.
~Default settings gave me a "hanging idle".

-Subtracted 10% of both AFTERSTART and WARMUP fueling in all temperature settings.
~This seemed to cure the cold and warm starting issue I had of idle being real low, for roughly 10 seconds, then "catching up" and idling fine.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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The Template is a good thing, I just didn't know how to implement it. I got the idea for this thread by visiting that Chevelle forum

Larry

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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody do data log? I did and noticed the TPS rarely goes to "0" at idle. Had a lot 4.5's or so.

When viewing the the hand held it goes to "0"

Larry

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