Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Radiator in a 65 - with AC

3K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Triton 
#1 ·
I can't find a definitive answer doing a search.

Current plan for my car is:

302 engine - nothing wild...it's rated at 305hp.
Manual Transmission
Vintage Air A/C
Electric Fan with a shroud
R front valence (so I think I'll get more air pushing through the radiator)

At some point down the road, I could see myself stroking the motor to 331 or 347 cu. in.

With that type of setup, can a stock width aluminum radiator handle keeping things cool on a summer day with the air running?

I know I can modify the car to accept a wider radiator, but thinking I'd rather not do it. But I will if it's an absolute requirement.


Anyone else have a similar setup that can share their experience?
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I've got a griffin alum rad in my '65- stock size. T-5 trans and a 408 stroker engine, no a/c, no p/s; she runs cool almost all the time, but starts to warm up if it's hot and sitting in traffic. I've also got the R valance, and it helps I think. I'm considering adding an electric fan as well, just haven't had time to do it yet. With the open valance, be sure to make a screen of some sort to keep rocks from ruining your day though... lol
 
#4 ·
I just went through this. I had the original radiator on a factory a/c car with the a/c long removed. When I installed a custom auto air system and it started running hot. I added an electric fan to the original radiator, only to have it bust a leak immediately after installing the fan. (I'm pretty sure that was just coincidence. It had been 10 years since the original radiator was refurbished.) I replaced it with a new factory style radiator and reinstalled the electric fan. The new radiator is about 1/4 inch thicker, and barely fits with the fan attached. I have about 1/4 inch between my fan and the water pump pulley. Its only been a couple of weeks, but engine is running cool and the a/c is blowing cold.

This is a topic of much debate and varying opinions. Some don't like the sound of the electric fan, and have found working solutions using the water pump fan.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the feedback AntKnee.

I don't mind the sound of the electric fan...my car is going to be so far from stock, that it's not an issue for me.

Can you tell me which radiator you put in your car?
Do you feel like you're on the edge of needing a bigger one or does it stay right at the thermostat temp when sitting in traffic?
 
#6 ·
I put a Griffin 24" radiator in mine with twin 11" fans. I also replaced the condenser with a 24" one to help dissipate the heat better. Here is a link to the build thread of doing this type of conversion if you are interested. With the AC running, both fans running the coolant stays at around 185 degrees and that is sitting in a long line of cars for over 1 hour waiting to exit a Good Guys show in over 90 degree weather. All the part numbers are listed in the build thread.


http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/501699-64-66-mustang-24-radiator-conversion-diy.html
 
#9 ·
I put A/C in my K code and it ran cool. This was in Texas and Oklahoma where summers are often over 100 degrees. I was still using the stock brass radiator. However when I added the Weber carb set, the motor made more power and started to run at the high end of normal. Still not a real problem, but for an experiment I put on a Northern brand aluminum radiator I had laying around. It did immediately run 15-20 degrees cooler, but the brass radiator may have had some plugged up tubes, and not have been flowing perfectly. So the comparison is far from being scientific.




Z
 
#11 ·
Sweet, I have the same Radiator as you do Peter, and I have been looking for a dual fan setup that would fit.

THANKS!
 
#13 ·
Good to know, my current electric fan is really close as well. But I think since the fan motors are offset it might work. Going to take measurements tonight if I ever get to leave work.
 
#16 ·
I admit to not reading all your responses.

I'm running a stock width aluminum radiator...one of the cheapies from Northern Radiator along with a Spal curved blade fan and one of their programmable controllers. It comes on as called for by the t-stat and then ramps up based on temp. It will also come on full if the a/c is turned on.

I'm also running one of those aluminum overflow tanks and upgraded to a higher volume water pump.

This is on an EFI 347 with automatic transmission. The a/t is hooked up to the radiator cooler, but also has a smallish stand along trans cooler to help a little.

I'm pretty sure I could drive this car on Venus without overheating. I know for a fact I've been running it that way for roughly 10 years and it's not had a single hiccup.

Good luck!

Phil
 
#17 ·
I running a Northern Radiator as well and after a lot of research I used a two speed fan from a Ford Taurus. These fan seem to pump out plenty of cfm's and have a built in fan shoud. I also run a Holister fan controller. I'm running way too cool so I'm going to have to change to a 195 degree thermostat. I'm with Phil my doesn't budge so I could run on Venus too!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top