...with the original style Ford efi, please save yourself a lot of trouble and just get the tanks inc. for the mustang. Just get the kit that has the efi tank + pump + fuel sender. It is so easy to put in and be done with it. I've struggled with several exterior pumps failing at a bad time. I got enough and finally installed the tanks inc. for my '66 and finished up while I was off the last week. I like having the fuel sender and fuel pump going in from on top of the tank. The only negative is that I had to cut a piece of 5/8" plywood to build a deck over the tank so that nothing would slide around and damage the fittings that are on top of the tank. I drove the car this weekend, while the red head is down at the beach with the girls, and I have some off time. I'm using the 5.0 style intake/injectors on a 1990 5.0 HO and AOD transmission behind that. It pulls much stronger with the internal pump. The exterior style pump seemed to run out of juice when I would go WOT. Now, it is performing like I would expect an efi system to perform. I know there are lots of people that have done this lots of different ways...but I am finally very happy with the results and trust this a whole lot more than the exterior style pump. I like that the pump will stay cooler being submerged. I still have a brand new exterior pump (maybe 10 hours of usage) in the trunk that I could install in about 20 minutes or so as the fuel lines are inside the trunk now. I got the kit from summit racing and the only extra thing I needed was the NPT To Nipple, Straight, 5/16 in. Hose Barb to 1/4 in. Male NPT, Steel, Chrome, Set of 3 for about $8. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3123 Use the efi style clamps. I know that some do use the -AN style hookups being as the stuff is inside the trunk and a leak could be a big problem if it were to get ignited. I'm not really worried about that. >
I decided to go with the kit because I was already running the Ford style efi and couldn't see spending a bigger pile of money for the newer carb style efi stuff. I'm just throwing this out there for anyone to use for additional information on going efi. Works for me. :grin2: And before somebody asks, I do have the cut off switch that kills the pump if I were to be rear ended.
I just used the spectra mustang efi tank. Snice I don't like to cut into a perfectly good trunk floor. It uses the stock location for the internal fuel pump.
You don't have to cut the trunk at all for a tanksinc tank. At least I didn't when I went EFI. All I had to do was enlarge 2 holes for my feed and return line since I went with braided line.
I have the Tanks Inc. tank in my 65 Fastback, and I ran the lines through the trunk. Before I put in the EFI I replaced my stock 5/16" line for a 3/8" line and that is my primary line for the EFI. My return is PTFE fuel line which runs on the passenger side frame rails all the way to the front of the car.
Here is a pic of the lines in the trunk, and if you are putting in EFI please add an Inertia switch so it will automatically shut down the fuel pump if you are ever hit. I did and it shuts the pump down in 1-2 seconds after getting hit, a simulation test hit that is.
I kept the original tank, made a bracket to attach an external pump to the existing tank mounting screws. I used a fuel filter and the mounting bracket from a Windstar, ran a supply line to the engine along the right side frame rail that mirrors the original supply line. I used the original line as the return, connected it to the drain plug port on the tank. I fill up when the gauge reaches the quarter full mark and I have never had a starvation issue.
I ran mine exactly the same as GearHeadPeter did. To my recollection there were already holes there for something electrical. Cant recall now. I just enlarged them a bit.
There was one hole there and it was for the fuel sending unit in the tank. Took it out and the bulkhead connector fit perfect. I did have to drill two other holes, one for the vent, and the other one was for the supply line.
Interesting. I don't have any holes at all right there and I don't want to drill any through my newly painted trunk. :frown2: I guess I will be going with the Spectra tank instead.
Pete-
Which inertia switch did you use and where is it mounted?
I mounted it on the trunk support frame on the passenger side where the trunk hinge is, but on the inside so it will be out of the way. It is a simple two wire switch, hook one to the pump +12 coming from the EFI, and the other part of the switch goes to the pump.
Does tanks inc, or anyone, make one capable of supporting 1000ish hp? I currently have a -10 line from the tank to the regulator, and when I put EFI on the new engine, I'd like to keep it that way. Can they accommodate that?
I added three point seat-belts way back when. My wife is bad about not making sure the buckle makes it completely inside the car before she shuts the door. Arrghhh! Makes me want to smash something. Her door has a bad chip place where she has done that. I can't say anything though....somethings are just better not said when it comes to the wife unit. I just smile when I go to hold the door for her getting in/out and make sure it is inside. Been married 39 years...don't want to blow it at this late date. Red headed women can be ferocious when they get stirred up. :surprise: I am going to replace the fenders soon as they got messed up when the EF4 tornado got us. I will then repaint myself....again for the third time since having this money trap... Heck I've gotten to where I just go down to the car and open the door and just empty my wallet in there every week or so...:0/ lol
My 22ga TanksInc tank dropped right in (so did the 16ga tank, long story). Had to tweak a couple of the factory mounting bolt holes but really minor.
I used a -6 AN bulkhead connector in the 60* portion of the trunk floor above the tank and beneath the parcel shelf to exit the trunk and ran down the driver's side. I am also running through the trans crossmember support, trying to decide how they terminate at the unit so I can route them more towards the tranny or 75* them over from near the MC and bend them in.
Some day I will have a pic of my trunk in a thread that I can link to .... someday heh
Funny: It's a vicious circle isn't it. Everyone buys new cars, mods them for individualizing them and improving performance. 10 years pass and everyone starts looking for OEM wheels and all those little doodads that you initially found cluttering and annoying.
Buy a new car, buy some $6k HRE's and then a decade later, spend another grand to buy back a set of NOS wheels. Use it the way you like it and don't worry about what other's think. I know its not the topic at hand but it struck me funny after returning from MCA 40th show. Circle of car life.
How true. I think if i ever do sell the stang, that I will sell it to a real concours type nut. It would just about drive one of those guys crazy with all the mods etc on my car. Take him years to even remotely get it back to what he would have to do! >
She and I went to town this morning, about 30 miles, and the car did well. I just didn't realize that I had been losing HP by the old pump not able to keep up. I punched it pulling out of the drive and laid down a long strip (deserted road). It really is a different horse now. :laugh: One other thing, I let her off at the mall while I went to harbor freight to pick up a three ton jack that was on sale. It was on sale for $89.99 and I had a coupon for $79.99 and a %25 off coupon. I really needed another big jack as it is hard to rotate tires on an F150 without two heavy jacks. :surprise: So I have two heavy duty one's now. The old one I have from there has held up really well to much usage so it was worth it to get another one.
PS, don't waste your time on those aluminum racing jacks they sell. I have one that absolutely quit working very well after a couple of years. Their heavy jacks do hold up very well though, and are worth the pride of admission.
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