TCI Engineering's Custom IFS - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demonizer67 View Post
Here are some Pics to show what I was talking about .
- The A-Arm mod - see pics BEFORE & AFTER. In the Before pics, you can see the way the shims are set & the A-Arm shaft is crooked to pull the Ball joint back for more caster. The AFTER pic shows the A-Arm shaft parallel to the tower with same shims an each side.

Maybe J from TCI has some insight to this A-Arm situation - perhaps I just overlooked something in the install?

-PS extension. See pics EXTENSION Top & EXTENSION Under - Its 3/8 sst tube with JIC flares & Fittings. This moves the connection point out & away from the Crossmember for easy access.

- Couple views of the TCI crossmember kit from under the car & behind the wheel.

I may just be more picky than most regarding symmetry & what not, so I decided to modify a few things as described. BUT, it did drive & perform very well before I modified the A-Arms - so I wouldn't say its necessary to modify the A-Arms.

Again, I really like the drastically improved handling of the car - totally a night & day difference.
It's not uncommon to have more shims/washers in the front hole vs. the rear hole on the upper control arm to achieve 4+ degrees of caster.

-J
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 11:59 AM
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I have the original kit in my car because the modular setup wasn't out yet when I bought mine. What all will I have to do to modify mine to use it with a coyote? Is it just the notch in the crossmember? Or is there more to it?
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 12:49 PM
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A-Arms & Caster

Thanks J, I do like more caster - so you say its not un-common - cool, good to know I didn't mess up he install then!.

I just preferred to have the A-Arm shafts parallel with the towers for better aesthetics because I do a lot of car shows & stuff - so I elected to mod the A-Arms a bit for symmetry.
-Mike

1967 Mustang Coupe, Ford Performance 5.0 Crate Engine with GT40 Alum Heads, Silverfox AOD, March Performance Serpentine system, 2.5" Dual Exhaust with Electric Cut Outs, TCI Custom Front End, Ford 9" Rear 3.89 TracLock, Wilwood Brakes all Around, Rocket Fuel 15 Chrome Wheels, BFG Radial TA 205, 255 60/15, A/C, Power Windows, Power Locks, Power Trunk, Kenwood DNX DVD with GPS, Corbeau Sport Seats.
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by justin51986 View Post
I have the original kit in my car because the modular setup wasn't out yet when I bought mine. What all will I have to do to modify mine to use it with a coyote? Is it just the notch in the crossmember? Or is there more to it?
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by justin51986 View Post

Sorry, I've been out of the office for a few weeks with a family emergency. It's not that hard to modify the existing crossmember but it does require some cutting and welding. We can provide dimensions on where and how the cuts need to be made but it is mostly in the center to clear the pan.

-J
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 04:44 PM
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can u give me the dimensions. either a pm on here or email jhock_04@hotmail.com. thanks
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 09:55 PM
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What are the pros and cons to a dropped spindle? Mine came with dropped but I am thinking I would rather have stock since my wheel wells are not modified and I want wide tires. Any suggestions before I put them on?

1968 Fastback Shelby gt500 tribute
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nelsoncat View Post
What are the pros and cons to a dropped spindle? Mine came with dropped but I am thinking I would rather have stock since my wheel wells are not modified and I want wide tires. Any suggestions before I put them on?
How wide are we talking? Do you plan to Autocross? What size rear tires are you going to run?

The dropped spindles will set the car down pretty far, looks great but will certainly limit tire size.


-J
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 08:36 AM
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Street driven only, in its former life it had g60 14 in front on 7" rims and n50 14 on 8" rims. I just ordered the TCI 4 link for the rear and would like the stock height with a slight rake. Not sure what tires and rims I will use for sure. The Shelby conversion and paint job is flawless and I can't wait to finish it. Would it be a big deal to exchange the spindles?

1968 Fastback Shelby gt500 tribute
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:15 AM
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What are the pros and cons to a dropped spindle? Mine came with dropped but I am thinking I would rather have stock since my wheel wells are not modified and I want wide tires. Any suggestions before I put them on?
Dropped spindle - I think is a cool look.
It does sit lower that I thought I would like - but either Im used to it now, or it looks better than I thought. Either way it looks cool and I dont have any rubbing or performance issues driving normal or under hard braking & lock to lock turning.

Note: TCI
Issues: TCI front is Narrower than stock, it was several years ago when I went through it - I think they said it was narrowed by about 3-4 Inches total - maybe 1.5" - 2" per side, meaning the spindle is moved to the INSIDE by that distance.

I called TCI regarding ride height adjustability & they said maybe an inch or so up/down with the coilover . If I wanted it higher in the front to take the ball joint out of the lower control arm & put it back in from the other side, thus flipping the LCA up side down - also swapping LCA sides (right to left, left to right). I tried that when mocking up the car - see attached pics - brings it up to about OEM height

Wheels I used are Rocket Fuel 15 x 6, backspace 3.5". widest tire to fit is BFG Radial TA 205/60/15. any wider & it will rub a bit on the eng compartment during hard turns & braking. Clears Fenders.

I ran the Autocross at GoodGuys a few weeks ago. Handled GREAT! set up pretty much out of the box - adjusted the coil overs so the Lower Arms are parallel to the ground. Basic shock that came with the kit - no dampening adjustments or fine tuning.

Also attached some pics of final ride height -
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Front Ride Height Comp.jpg (96.2 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg TCI 1.jpg (91.4 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg TCI 2.jpg (98.5 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg TCI 3.jpg (79.5 KB, 37 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe, Ford Performance 5.0 Crate Engine with GT40 Alum Heads, Silverfox AOD, March Performance Serpentine system, 2.5" Dual Exhaust with Electric Cut Outs, TCI Custom Front End, Ford 9" Rear 3.89 TracLock, Wilwood Brakes all Around, Rocket Fuel 15 Chrome Wheels, BFG Radial TA 205, 255 60/15, A/C, Power Windows, Power Locks, Power Trunk, Kenwood DNX DVD with GPS, Corbeau Sport Seats.
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsoncat View Post
Street driven only, in its former life it had g60 14 in front on 7" rims and n50 14 on 8" rims. I just ordered the TCI 4 link for the rear and would like the stock height with a slight rake. Not sure what tires and rims I will use for sure. The Shelby conversion and paint job is flawless and I can't wait to finish it. Would it be a big deal to exchange the spindles?
I agree, the stock spindle would be best suited for your needs. Won't be a problem at all to swap them out if need be. Demonizer brings up a good point about swapping the lower ball joint and switching sides. This is what we used to do before we offered the stock height spindles.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Demonizer67 View Post
Dropped spindle - I think is a cool look.
It does sit lower that I thought I would like - but either Im used to it now, or it looks better than I thought. Either way it looks cool and I dont have any rubbing or performance issues driving normal or under hard braking & lock to lock turning.

Note: TCI
Issues: TCI front is Narrower than stock, it was several years ago when I went through it - I think they said it was narrowed by about 3-4 Inches total - maybe 1.5" - 2" per side, meaning the spindle is moved to the INSIDE by that distance.

I called TCI regarding ride height adjustability & they said maybe an inch or so up/down with the coilover . If I wanted it higher in the front to take the ball joint out of the lower control arm & put it back in from the other side, thus flipping the LCA up side down - also swapping LCA sides (right to left, left to right). I tried that when mocking up the car - see attached pics - brings it up to about OEM height

Wheels I used are Rocket Fuel 15 x 6, backspace 3.5". widest tire to fit is BFG Radial TA 205/60/15. any wider & it will rub a bit on the eng compartment during hard turns & braking. Clears Fenders.

I ran the Autocross at GoodGuys a few weeks ago. Handled GREAT! set up pretty much out of the box - adjusted the coil overs so the Lower Arms are parallel to the ground. Basic shock that came with the kit - no dampening adjustments or fine tuning.

Also attached some pics of final ride height -
If you have any pics of your car running the Autocross (or otherwise) make sure to send me some. jason@totalcostinvolved.com

-J
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 09:11 PM
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Is there any downside to flipping the lower control arms? Here is a picture of my car on the hoist.
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File Type: jpg image.jpg (91.9 KB, 36 views)

1968 Fastback Shelby gt500 tribute
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nelsoncat View Post
Is there any downside to flipping the lower control arms? Here is a picture of my car on the hoist.

It will push the control arm down and out of its primary target range of motion which will adversely effect performance. We intend the lower control arm to be parallel to the ground at ride height. Doing this will put it at roughly a 7-10 degrees down angle.


-J
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 02:05 AM
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So swapping spindles would be the smart move. What would I need to do this? Sorry to be a pain!
Craig

1968 Fastback Shelby gt500 tribute
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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So swapping spindles would be the smart move. What would I need to do this? Sorry to be a pain!
Craig

You have two options when changing to the stock spindles:

If you keep the GM calipers, you will need new caliper brackets and a shorter turn rack.

Upgrade to Wilwood calipers and bracket and keep the existing rack.

-J
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