66 coupe period correct suspension - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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66 coupe period correct suspension

Yes this is my third post, so hello! Now on the the nitty gritty. I read and searched through the forum, searched products on the intrawebs, and either I've over looked for what I'm searching for or I haven't looked hard enough. I have a pair of 66 coupes. One is restored, nothing show quality, but a nice cruiser and that's about as far as I want to with that one. This post is more about the other one. What I have is a very solid coupe in a box. I purchased it that way. So my cross roads is this. Put it back to orginal or build a new track toy.

I am leaning towards track toy, however my intentions with the track toy is to run period correct suspension as Shelby or other teams would have ran by in the hayday of trans am racing. So with that being said I guess I'm looking at shocks, springs, and steering box, as well as set up geometry. Like I said maybe I haven't looked hard enough or in the right places but I'm having trouble coming up with what exactly these guys were running back in the day.

I'm not so concerned with the rest of the car being correct, just in the handling department. I was planning a smile no thrills driveline, like a 5.0 and t-5. However I would upgrade the brakes to a dual circuit disc set up with ducting to keep the temps within operating specs.

So any help or suggestions with set up would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 09:56 AM
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One thing you may want to get is a Tony D. Branda Shelby and Mustang Parts catalog.

68 FB 302GT in progress, really.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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And everyone like pictures so here is the complete coupe
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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And the coupe in the box
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Try that again
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 01:15 PM
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First one looks great.


Second one is not what I would call a 'box' car. I would have that one running before supper.


As far as specs. you will find they changed over the years and from team to team. That said, there are many 'period correct' mods you can make. I have 100,000 miles on my original set up from the late 70's. Koni's, export brace. monte-carlo bar, Arning drop, quick steer (had the factory HiPo box already), under ride bars, big sway bar, boxed a-arms, etc... I have never made a Shelby spec car - so I don't know the essentials.


Good luck - I like the 'day two' style of car building.
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 05:21 PM
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Visit Cobra Automotive's website. Vintage Racing legal parts that are period correct, with modern upgrades. My opinion the best vintage race parts available. Plus they have a whole bunch of vintage racing knowledge and if you can afford it track side support. For a more cost efficient parts provider, try Opentracker racing, Everyone on this site will vouch for John's knowledge and parts as well. Also, Pick up a copy or download the .pdf file of the Boss Mustang Chassis Guide.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 08:38 PM
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Opentracker or spend all your money at Cobra Automotive for many of the same parts.
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 08:57 PM
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Opentracker.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone03 View Post
Opentracker or spend all your money at Cobra Automotive for many of the same parts.
The only really comparable parts between the two are the control arms and if you purchase Opentracker's full race arms the price is similar. The front spring perches at Opentracker are bearing while Cobra are full oil impregneted bronze bushings. Cobra offers competition rear springs of their own design built in the USA and Opentracker as stated by John himself sources his imported springs from Scott Drake. Cobra offers larger bearing spindles which also accept the 1/2 inch tie rod. They also offer billet steel or aluminum hubs which Opentracker does not. Cobra has narrower front spring covers which allow for a wider tire and /or track alignments. Cobra offers a 12" x 1.25 inch brake rotor with a custom cooling plate that fits snugly around the rotor. Cobra offers reinforced steering center links. The list goes on and on. Saying Cobra parts are simply overpriced parts that are the same as Opentracker isn't accurate in my opinion. Again, I think Opentracker are a solid choice for the vintage style suspension for those more cost conscious but for those wanting the best I stand by Cobra for the above and aforementioned reasons. Just my 2 cents and that's all it's worth.
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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The coupe in a box, is defiantly in a box, it's just a rolling body shell, everything is out of it making for a clean slate build. I'll check out those two web sites for ideas. I'm not sold on anyone set up yet, but I like the idea of a sixties style track car and explor how those guys made it work. I already have a cruiser, so why not?
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 10:10 PM
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Period correct can mean a few things.Pretty much the golden standard though is to do the UCA drop GT or 620 front springs cut to your desired ride height (1/2 loop on my 620's) You either accept KYB's or hate them Koni shocks are "period" if you have the coin .Period correct or not (not) but adjustable strut rods with rod ends are the way to go even the guys in vintage Trans Am use them.Rear suspension you'll want a least HD 4 or more leaf

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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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This has really become a pain n the rear, there are way to many options out there without any one good place to look. I still don't know what I'm going with
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Although I did pick up a 347 stroker for the car
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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 06:08 AM
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Why is it a pain in the rear?
If you want the car to perform you will do the following (as stated above):
Arning drop
Subframe connectors
Front and rear springs
Front and rear shocks - Koni or Bilstein
Reinforced upper arms - Maybe shortened and angle corrected
sway bar
Roller spring perch
monte carlo and export brace.

That is pretty much the formula.
If it were me, i would use modern tubular arms....

Oh, yes and and the widest tires you can fit.
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