Scatter Shields or Blow Proof Bellhousings - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 02:54 AM
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I used the RobbMC alignment dowels also and they made the installation much easier.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff351w View Post
It's not needed until it is, then it's too late if you don't already have one.
Kind of like a parachute?
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by patrickstapler View Post
I hear you on the race car. I'm just debating if it's needed on a DD that will see a little track time for fun, but there will be no hard launches and it won't see north of 6K RPM.
I think this is right. If you have the extra room your budget and want to buy one for one for added insurance, then go ahead, there is certainly no harm. But on a street driven car that will not see the track, I don't think it's necessary. Ford has produced how many millions of Mustangs with aluminum bells that have collectively been driven billions of miles on the street over the last 50+ years and I have yet to encounter a Mustang owner who suffered an injury from the failure of their aluminum bell to contain their exploding factory clutch/flywheel while driving on the street. And if you also consider the fact that SFI certified components are higher quality than anything that came out of the factory initially, the chance of such a failure on the street is reduced even further.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 09:55 AM
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2 views: first, I raced a Mustang early 70's with an aluminum bell, 13.85 quarters, never a problem.

other side, while enjoying the pleasant employment with Uncle Sam, I had a M113 armored personnel carrier, loose the shaft between the final drive and the transmission, kind of like losing a drive shaft. It was located right in front of the driver.

It tore through the hull, sliced open the abdomen of the driver, broke a leg of the gunner, and when the track turned onto it's side (driver had lost interest in controlling it), I ate the .50 cal barrel and lost 4 teeth.

The examination of the failure showed the mechanics had reused the locking tabs on the connecting bolts, instead of using new ones, kind of like the locking tabs on the exhaust manifold on a 1965 289 engine.

Quite a mess. ed ay +3112

Richardson TX

1968 GT500 Arrest Me Red (The Big Boy Toy)
1966 K Code Vert (The K 'Vert)
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 02:55 PM
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Pat, I'm running a SFI billet wheel and FMS Cobra clutch kit with a stock aluminum bellhousing. My motor is pretty mild, I'd estimate about 250 or so HP. I feel pretty safe. I also like the fact with the stock bellhousing you have a boot swing the clutch fork keeping the road grime out.


I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for posting that Tom. I was actually wondering if the stock boot would even fit the aftermarket bells.

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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:40 PM
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I looked at all of Lakewood's boots and none fit so I just took a stock '66 289 boot and RTV'd it in place. It's held up for the 6 months since I completed the repair and doesn't appear to be coming apart at all. I did have to cut the end of the boot to allow the fork to stick out a bit further.

Also, if you're running the Lakewood, take the opportunity to switch to the mid-68 and later clutch fork and mount; this is the clasp style instead of the earlier wire design and provides a more secure attachment for the fork.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bellmount.jpg (35.3 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg boot.jpg (68.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg clutchforkclasp.jpg (52.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Lakewood 15200 Side Pic.jpg (75.7 KB, 3 views)

66 GT350 Clone in Sapphire Blue. Built from the ground up over 12 years and finally being enjoyed on the road!
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