Holley double pumper linkage - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Holley double pumper linkage

hello, not much activity lately, have a hard time keeping the new password straight.. Anyway was wondering if any one has tried setting the primary and secondary in the 1 to 1 linkage vs the progressive for road racing. I have thought about it but never tried it on the track. Seems that it would make the power more predictable and steady vs the secondaries coming in and out in the last quarter of throttle.

also, thoughts on locking the advance for the distributor

Thanks
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 04:40 PM
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Definitely lock out the advance if track only.

Not at my car now to compare the linkage, but I don't remember changing it.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:21 PM
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Since every different vehicle might act a bit differently because of what is in the build, I would say try it if you are keeping the rpms up over around 3000. If you get lugged down in a low gear turn and the rpms drop, it might cause a bit of a studder or stumble trying to accelerate from a low rpm. I think you will need to just go try it and see how your car likes it.

When I was only drag racing my car, I launched it from around 3700 rpm so I ran 1:1 but I still ran a primary power valve. It was a bit easier rumbling around back in the pits and staging like that. You may find that your car will like 1:1 better with a secondary power valve and squared up on the jets. I saw people drag racing like that and I also saw people running jetted up with no power valves at the track too.

1:1 might also require you to rethink your accelerator pumps a bit.

My carb came with a few different linkage rods to tune how fast or slow the secondaries would come in. I'm running the stock rod now since I'm going back to the streets.

I think the Holley dominator is set up 1:1 or alls the ones I have seen at the track were.

331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec

331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE

One of the last tnt's on my 289 may she rest in pieces. It ran in the
high 11's low 12's when it was at its best.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2yWPZGfMT0

Last edited by macstang; 04-19-2017 at 05:25 PM.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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silverblueBP , any trouble starting the car when hot with the dist locked?.. I try to keep it running for the whole session, but things do happen.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:50 PM
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The MSD 6 AL box retards it automatically at startup. So I've read. It's a new MSD distributor too.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:51 PM
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Starts easy when hot.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:26 AM
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If you search the web, there are several reputable carb vendors selling road race carbs with 1:1 linkage. It looks ike they run powervalves on both ends.
I would say try it.
Ask the guys at this forum for details
racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.org - Index page
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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good idea, square the jets up and I can tune the top end with power valves.. The issue I was having was at VIR at the ends of the big straights when I would start to get out of the secondaries, the engine would go very lean and fealt like it was out of gas to the point of burning 2 pistons (1 and 4)..(still trying to figure out exactly what happened there) And at Kershaw when opening the secondaries traction is an issue.. So I am looking for more consistency.

So I will be going through the summer with what I refer to as my granny engine (thankful to have a spare) and trying to get some lessons learned..
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:27 PM
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You know Ed Pinks son Bill Pink is a carburetor guy in Denver NC.
I'm sure he could help if he wanted to.
Power By Pink Home
Or call BLP and talk to them. They will give you rough tuning info if you are buying their parts.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Locked down the distributor advance, could not have been easier on the MSD and found a linkage that brings in the secondaries at about 20%.. Think I am going to like the distributor change..

Thanks for all the input
silverblueBP and app01 like this.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 04:08 AM
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I ran locked out on mine at the track also. I took the start wire off the ignition switch and wired it to a heavy duty steel push button under the dash. I could kick over the engine 2 or 3 turns with the ignition off, hit the ignition switch and it fired up easier and instantly that way. Even now I'm still cranking up with 24 initial timing so I kept it set up this way.

I have seen race car electrical switch organizers that work this way and if you ever caught a video of a Nascar car driver cranking up, they do this. Ha. I found it. See how he will kick over the starter first and then hit the ignition on switch. It is right at the very start of the video.

https://youtu.be/ugulThzd3Is

If the car has been sitting for a while, you can also wire up your fuel pump to a switch to prime up the carb. I have that switch under the dash also and 3 small chrome bezel led indicators I got from Speedway in the dash face for power on, fuel on and fan on. The fan led is wired to the fan on thermostatic switch so I can monitor it cycling on and off. My engine is so loud even with the street exhaust that I can't hear the fan running.

I mentioned the accel pumps because I had to change mine. I set the linkage a bit loose and on the second hole. I also chose cams that brought more shot in a bit later for longer. Something like this gives you some shot even at higher rpms when you go from some throttle to full throttle like exiting a turn. For me at the drags it got me a harder launch out of the hole because I left from around half throttle.

331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec

331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE

One of the last tnt's on my 289 may she rest in pieces. It ran in the
high 11's low 12's when it was at its best.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2yWPZGfMT0

Last edited by macstang; 04-25-2017 at 04:46 AM.
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