Best sub frame connectors?? - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-21-2006, 07:51 AM
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So no one has tried the spin techs? I thing they would be pretty interesting especially with the jacking rail sort of thing.
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post #17 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-21-2006, 08:58 AM
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No. I got Comp Eng ones and called it a day.
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post #18 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-21-2006, 08:11 PM
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These TinMan Subframes fit very nice and really stiffened up the unibody.


Installing Subframes
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post #19 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-22-2006, 02:38 PM
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James,

Excellent documentation! Looks sharp! Jerry

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post #20 of 69 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 09:28 PM
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I bought a set of bolt on SFCs from CJ Pony Parts. I did so with the intention of welding in extra support attachments. Any advice on how and where to place these welds. I was thinking of cutting some flat stock and running over to the frame.
Thanks in advance!

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post #21 of 69 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 01:10 AM
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Talk about raising a thread from the dead.......

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post #22 of 69 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 05:39 AM
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I used tommy zees. He is f16falcon on here I think
He is on eBay with them.

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post #23 of 69 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grmcracker View Post
I bought a set of bolt on SFCs from CJ Pony Parts. I did so with the intention of welding in extra support attachments. Any advice on how and where to place these welds. I was thinking of cutting some flat stock and running over to the frame.
Thanks in advance!
What strength are you going to get from flat stock? Round, square or rectangular tube would be worth your while.

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post #24 of 69 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 08:08 PM
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There have been several discussions on here about sub frame connectors. Sub frame connectors don't necessarily stiffen the body of these cars. Yes they tie the front and rear frame rails together which stiffen the car front to rear (lengthwise). But, what are you trying to accomplish? If you think about how an engine induces torque (stresses) into the 'body' of these cars, or what happens when you try to take a turn a speed, it's in the form of twist. So tying the front and rear frame rails together really doesn't solve that entire problem. What you need to do is tie the front and rears together and then tie them together side to side. That's what Ford did with the convertible pieces. You add the inner rockers (or sub frame connectors if you wish) to get front to rear stiffness, torque boxes to reduce the twist in the firewall to outer rocker torque, and inner and outer convertible seat pan stiffeners to tie the two sides together. Now you accomplish some level of 'body' stiffness. The next level is obviously roll bars and cages. Take a look at the mods Shaun of Street or Track has done on his '66 coupe or call him for some guidance.

I had a friend about 15 years ago that did the mods I just described without the roll bar or roll cage and he could literally jack one side of his car up from any point on that side.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #25 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 07:22 PM
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Yep.
Don't forget welding in a panel behind the rear seat tying wheelwells, foorpan, and rear speaker deck together in a different plane than all the floor mods. Twisting a ladder is fairly easy, but it would be much harder if the ladder had square plates sticking up vertically that tied the two rails together. Relatively easy mod compared to cage, which has ingress/egress issues, weight, and loss of backseat for kids. Cage can be added when those things don't matter.


Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickstapler View Post
There have been several discussions on here about sub frame connectors. Sub frame connectors don't necessarily stiffen the body of these cars. Yes they tie the front and rear frame rails together which stiffen the car front to rear (lengthwise). But, what are you trying to accomplish? If you think about how an engine induces torque (stresses) into the 'body' of these cars, or what happens when you try to take a turn a speed, it's in the form of twist. So tying the front and rear frame rails together really doesn't solve that entire problem. What you need to do is tie the front and rears together and then tie them together side to side. That's what Ford did with the convertible pieces. You add the inner rockers (or sub frame connectors if you wish) to get front to rear stiffness, torque boxes to reduce the twist in the firewall to outer rocker torque, and inner and outer convertible seat pan stiffeners to tie the two sides together. Now you accomplish some level of 'body' stiffness. The next level is obviously roll bars and cages. Take a look at the mods Shaun of Street or Track has done on his '66 coupe or call him for some guidance.

I had a friend about 15 years ago that did the mods I just described without the roll bar or roll cage and he could literally jack one side of his car up from any point on that side.

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post #26 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 08:08 PM
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Agreed on the cage if you plan on riding folks around in the back seat.

BTW, I like the front spitter and the turn buckles on your car...very cool. Got any more pics or videos you would care to share?

Regards,
Patrick
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post #27 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 07:32 AM
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A plate behind the rear seat is effective and simple. It's a common trick among race car builders. I also once read a list of torsional stiffness of BMW's 3 series. The one with a fold down rear seat (and consequently no reinforcements there) was considerably weaker (like 25% or more) than the standard sedan with fixed rear seat, which obviously had some reinforcements there.

There's a thread on stangnet I believe of a guy who took measurements when installing all kinds of reinforcements. He supported the body on three jackstands, bolted a long beam to the front, applied a load on one end and measured the twist.

The rear seat plate improved stiffness by 10%. Not spectacular maybe, but good enough considering the simplicity of the modification.

An export brace improved stiffness by a considerable 25%! A real export brace that is, not one of those "moves freely in almost all directions" heim jointed things....

Subframe connectors didn't show any improvements in terms of torsional stiffness. That is not to say they're worthless though, they do make the body more sturdy.
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post #28 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmantel View Post
Subframe connectors didn't show any improvements in terms of torsional stiffness. That is not to say they're worthless though, they do make the body more sturdy.
That is true about the body being more sturdy. We had a few cars do "off track
excursions" that were near exact copies, except for one didn't have sub frame
connectors and the other did. Guess which car was infinitely more tweaked?
(Last time I recall this comparison it was on two '69 Boss 302s that left the
track at the bottom of Turn 4 at Willow Springs)

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post #29 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 01:55 AM
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Check out Maier Racings sfc set up. Hugs tight to the bottom of the floor pan and has large welding plates to connect to frame stubs. He has the bolt in x brace to match. Have seen them in person and they are really stout. No loss of ground clearance at all. I am going to be doing the covert inner rockers as well as the SFC just to be overkill! I like doing stuff like that
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post #30 of 69 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 01:55 AM
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Picking up tin man fab sfc next Tuesday as he's only a couple hours away from me. Convinced the wife we needed a date day in the cities but we need to pick these up first lol. She's so great.
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