I have no axe to grind with Canton, or any mfg for that matter, but you are likely not to see that pan on any serious race car.
Really? Stop on over at your local circle track Saturday night and ask those guys... A roundy round car on 10" slicks is going to pull more lateral G's than most of us ever will in a 40 year old Mustang. They don't have oiling problems.
Really? Stop on over at your local circle track Saturday night and ask those guys... A roundy round car on 10" slicks is going to pull more lateral G's than most of us ever will in a 40 year old Mustang. They don't have oiling problems.
Here are some inside pics of the 15-630:
I appreciate the pics...wish I knew how to do that. The reason I bring this up is that one of our track cars with a Canton pan recently experienced 3 stress cracks at the location of the vertical pieces in your pics. We don't know exactly what caused them to fracture but surmise that there was some sort of harmonic set up inside the pan that caused it to happen. We advised the owner to try another pan...he said to weld em up...go figure.
I admit I don't have all the experience in the world but at VARA events you don't see those pans. At our club events you don't see many of those pans...at least not on the more built track cars. At Tulsa last year I didn't see many of them. All I can go on is what I see and find out when talking to very experienced racers.
Ask Dave Dralle about oil pans. When this car I referred to above lost oil pressure and ended up with a spun bearing at Willow and they took the pan off to check things out. Dralle stopped by and commented on the pan they were using and recommended they get something better. They didn't...go figure and this is now the 4th edition of the engine in that car. Not saying all the problems were caused by the pan...but why not eliminate that as being a questionable area. Turn 2 at Willow will test your pan and oil pump...don't know what the G's are there but I take it in the mid 90's...all I have balls for and it's a long constant radius corner. If you are going to have oil problems they will show up there.
Well anyways this is all a good discussion. I like to read all the comments on here and I think its very useful for newer guys to get some great info.
I have the Canton pan, yet I hear from the Shelby Club guys who are running in the top groups that they like the Avid pans (not sure why, but many of them do).
Having said that, for my Open Track driving (especially with my wimpy motor) the Canton has been fine. I rarely push it even to 5500 rpm (my original 289 has been mildly worked over, but the valve springs are weak and act as a built-in rev limiter!). I'm not racing, but I do drive fairly hard. Again, however, I don't have a 450 hp motor and 10 inch super-sticky tires, so I'm not putting the stress on the car that some do.
I just bought the 9qt Aviaid pan from Cobra Automotive, as I've heard only positive things about them, and my engine builder insisted I get one for the new 363 going in my '65.
I'm just going from personaly experience. I've never dealt with any other pans than Canton. Sold over 200 pans the past 7 years and have only ever had one guy come back with a warranty claim. That was a deformed rear main seal area that was delivered that way. He ran the pan for a year, it leaked from day one and yet Canton still replaced it for free.
My opinion is that its like Koni's. All the old school guys use them because that is what was top dog, now there are cheaper/comparable or dare I say better solutions available yet the 'legend lives on'
Attached are a few pix of pan. No issues with headers or quick steering...might be worth a look. Pan has five built-in hinged doors and comes with windage tray, pickup and all hardware.
Fred
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The reason I bring this up is that one of our track cars with a Canton pan recently experienced 3 stress cracks at the location of the vertical pieces in your pics. We don't know exactly what caused them to fracture but surmise that there was some sort of harmonic set up inside the pan that caused it to happen.
That would be the correct. Ford small blocks have nasty harmonics unless they are internally balanced. Canton makes a special 15-630 with a 14 gauge sump for just that reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shelbyman1
you don't see many of those pans...at least not on the more built track cars....... this car I referred to above lost oil pressure and ended up with a spun bearing at Willow and they took the pan off to check things out. Dralle stopped by and commented on the pan they were using and recommended they get something better. They didn't...go figure and this is now the 4th edition of the engine in that car.
There's a point in power and competition levels that one needs to ditch the internal pump wet sump system and step up to a true race level oiling system. My guess would be the car in question is at that level, or has other problems that are being blamed on the oil pan.
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Nothing worthwhile is ever quick, cheap or easy, those that can't do, complain
The reason I bring this up is that one of our track cars with a Canton pan recently experienced 3 stress cracks at the location of the vertical pieces in your pics. We don't know exactly what caused them to fracture but surmise that there was some sort of harmonic set up inside the pan that caused it to happen.
That would be the correct. Ford small blocks have nasty harmonics unless they are internally balanced. Canton makes a special 15-630 with a 14 gauge sump for just that reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shelbyman1
you don't see many of those pans...at least not on the more built track cars....... this car I referred to above lost oil pressure and ended up with a spun bearing at Willow and they took the pan off to check things out. Dralle stopped by and commented on the pan they were using and recommended they get something better. They didn't...go figure and this is now the 4th edition of the engine in that car.
There's a point in power and competition levels that one needs to ditch the internal pump wet sump system and step up to a true race level oiling system. My guess would be the car in question is at that level, or has other problems that are being blamed on the oil pan.
That engine had other issues too numerous to go into here. Made the rest of us question what the heck that engine builder was thinking about. One good thing is when they are running they make tons of power.
avaid has the best baffling and gate design to prevent oil starving at high speed tracks like willowsprings. yes they are expensive but so are engines especially cranks and all the work and parts involved to fix them. if you buy a cheap pan dont bother buying a Bryant crank or Oliver rods as that would be a waste of moola with a crummy oil pan. you might be able to get a better price from MEACO motorsport 818-701-1923 all they do is build and roadrace shelbys and mustangs for a living !
Attached are a few pix of pan. No issues with headers or quick steering...might be worth a look. Pan has five built-in hinged doors and comes with windage tray, pickup and all hardware.
Fred
Wanted to make a comment on ARO pans. Mine is an ARO pan but made with drawings a friend of mine made up to hold 10 qts of oil. The kick outs are a bit wider and the overall depth a bit shallower to provide a bit more road clearance. We did have a problem with one pan developing cracks at the junction of the kick outs and the vertical part of the pan. Armando forgot to weld in triangular shaped pieces to add strength to that area and low and behold cracks did develop. I think it would be a good idea to have him weld them in on any of his pans. Like so much stuff in track cars better to fix it before it breaks.
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One good thing is when they are running they make tons of power.
