First off ill start with i plan to drive my car a lot(67 mustang coupe). I have lots of tracks within a hour or so of me and all of them have lots of open track days, However i will be street driving it just as much or more but im kinda hard on it on the street . all that being said i have a few questions and i have searched a lot on the topics.
#1 will boxing my original control arms help me i see on opentracker thats what they have (boxing kits or pre boxed sets) ill make mine just wondering if its worth the time
#2 what size sway bar should i use i was thinking no bigger than a 1 inch but other than that im kinda lost im running a built 289
#3 i know im doing the shelby drop but when i started searching i found a 1 inch and 1.25 inch drop can someone help me understand whats the difference in the ride and what i should go with? (also saw this on opentracker)
#4 i see they have a solid bearing on there site as well is it ok to street drive on them or is it more 100% track usage item
also figured i would mention i am doing roller perches as well and have an export brace and monte carlo bar and was thinking 620 pound springs 1 inch drop (unless you guys have something better) i am kinda on a tight budget but am flexible.
I can't comment on most of that, but I do want to point out something. If you're referring to the 620 springs sold by Mustangs Plus (and others, I'd assume), they're not really 620# spring rate, it's just a model designation. I can't find it right now, but I saw a chart that shows the rates and it's really 500-something #s. I see a lot of people go with true 600+ # springs for corner carving / track, so I thought I'd mention it.
The 620# springs are actually rated at 560#. That's what I have on my 66.
i see yours is modeled like a track car you do a lot of racing ? how do yours work for you have you cut them at all or were they basically on the dot out of the box ?
No racing, just open track. Rarely sees any street time anymore. The springs are as delivered, no cutting, nothing special. I've been tracking the car for 6 years with almost the same suspension setup. The only thing I've messed with is camber, toe and tires. The car handles quite well for me.
First off ill start with i plan to drive my car a lot(67 mustang coupe). I have lots of tracks within a hour or so of me and all of them have lots of open track days, However i will be street driving it just as much or more but im kinda hard on it on the street . all that being said i have a few questions and i have searched a lot on the topics.
#1 will boxing my original control arms help me i see on opentracker thats what they have (boxing kits or pre boxed sets) ill make mine just wondering if its worth the time
Uppers? Lowers? Personally I hate the factory uppers. After you fix all the shortcomings you might as well have gone tubular. The factory uppers pivot steel-on-steel. You're not gonna get anything more "harsh" than that. And the factory situation isn't harsh.
The lower arms are a joke from the factory but you can fix them with a plate and a
spherical bearing. Well worth it. Not just a race item. No penalty in ride.
#2 what size sway bar should i use i was thinking no bigger than a 1 inch but other than that im kinda lost im running a built 289
1" non-adjustable front sway bar.
#3 i know im doing the shelby drop but when i started searching i found a 1 inch and 1.25 inch drop can someone help me understand whats the difference in the ride and what i should go with? (also saw this on opentracker)
1" down is the "traditional" drop. It's the original number that Arning determined back-in-the day. A farther drop than that without addressing the factory ball joint angle is asking for a broken upper ball joint.....
A farther drop affords you a different camber rate. If the upper arm length is also addressed, it goes from an ok camber rate change to a really good negative camber gain, which is really advantageous.
#4 i see they have a solid bearing on there site as well is it ok to street drive on them or is it more 100% track usage item
See answer to #1 above
also figured i would mention i am doing roller perches as well and have an export brace and monte carlo bar and was thinking 620 pound springs 1 inch drop (unless you guys have something better) i am kinda on a tight budget but am flexible.
Depends upon whose 620's. Some really are 620. Some aren't. The 540-560# springs seems to be the best rate. You can actually chop Moog replacement '68 coupe springs and by the time you get them to the correct ride height, they end up at 540#.
ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
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No racing, just open track. Rarely sees any street time anymore. The springs are as delivered, no cutting, nothing special. I've been tracking the car for 6 years with almost the same suspension setup. The only thing I've messed with is camber, toe and tires. The car handles quite well for me.
i looked at your CarDomain you have done everything i planned on adjustable strut rods roller perches (accept you have the double roller) #620 springs. do you open track often because i wanna get into it and seems like a good setup for sticking with stock style suspension no mustang 2 from the sounds of it your quite happy
also the rest of you guys thanks there was a few of those people ive actually talked to a bit also read up a lot on some of the stuff on their web site some really talented guys. One main thing is i want to try the roller bearings for the lower control arms like open tracker sells but ive never seen any feedback on them anyone running them ?
hey i wanted to thank you im not sure everyone saw but you answered everything in that box what are the shortcomings of the stock setup control arms ? i know there is a lot but can you explain im a welder as a trade so i can build almost anything
I go to track days as often as work (and the weather) allows, usually 4-6 times a year. I started off going to HPDE with the Audi and Porsche clubs. Got some really good instruction and tons of seat time. You can't beat getting different perspectives from real racers.
I see no reason to go with anything other than stock type suspension parts for open track. Now, if I was going to race for real, that's a different story! One of the best parts about track days, is having the vintage iron with 1966 technology. You can get some real jaw drops when people find out what's under the sheet metal. Most of the time they expect to see all kinds of new, high tech parts. You can spend tons of cash of expensive, flashy, cool parts...but you don't NEED to. My car is still way better than the driver even after 6 years of track time.
Thanks thats what im really looking for im doing some of the mods i can do myself or make. Ill be open tracking it for fun no real all out racing plus some of the people like you said would be surprised what you can do with a few minor changes, also i do wanna be able to hop in and go for a regular drive.
Thought i would add i really like your 66 seeing some cars like that made me want to do open track events have some serious fun with my car.
You can get some real jaw drops when people find out what's under the sheet metal. Most of the time they expect to see all kinds of new, high tech parts. You can spend tons of cash of expensive, flashy, cool parts...but you don't NEED to. My car is still way better than the driver even after 6 years of track time.
that's cool.
I wish there was a track near me, I would go often!
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suspension ideas
I have a friend telling me I need to drive from upstate NY (4 hrs) to Mosport because its so much fun
