1967 Mustang, how to get more negative camber? - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 08:54 PM
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Nick:

What caster settings did you settle on? IIRC, dialing in more caster will push the tire back resulting in a bit more clearance at the 10:00 o'clock position.

url]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k156/jefftepper/IMG_0027_edited-1.jpg[/url]

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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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I honestly don't remember. I didn't get a full print out either because they weren't able to get me past 0 camber and I was disgusted. Car drive nice though. It is in paint now and getting the lips flat while there. I am also shaving a couple hundred pounds of body filler off the car so it might end up not needing anything more.

I am also kicking around the idea of changing the wheels (which was ttii take offs from my other mustang) and the tires (which two where take offs, one was free, and the other I paid $150 or so for) so with mounting I balancing I only have about $200 into this full set of wheels/tires so it isn't a big loss if I downsize a little in the front to compensate. I was thinking about putting my 65 width 9 inch into it and getting some massive lip 9.5 wide for the rear

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1967 Fastback 347 T5- Cruiser
1968 Fastback 408w T5 - Brute
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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgestang View Post
Factory bolts I believe.

Those pictures look like you are nowhere even remotely close to full negative camber (in fact, close to the opposite).

If they are now different than that, and out as far as you can get, but it looks like there is room to go, try taking the bolts out and seeing if they are all the way outboard in the slots, or if things are just clogged or something of that sort.

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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheShagg View Post
Those pictures look like you are nowhere even remotely close to full negative camber (in fact, close to the opposite).

If they are now different than that, and out as far as you can get, but it looks like there is room to go, try taking the bolts out and seeing if they are all the way outboard in the slots, or if things are just clogged or something of that sort.
Pic is before the alignment.

Nick
1965 Fastback 410c AOD - DT
1967 Fastback 347 T5- Cruiser
1968 Fastback 408w T5 - Brute
1991 GT Hatch - Fauxbra
1996 Dodge Viper GTS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LUK2D0GjdY
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 06:21 PM
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I would pull the bolts and verify the slots go to the edge of the bracket(?). I've seen where they don't and this stops the bolt from going to the full outboard position. The slots may need to be filed.

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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 10:44 AM
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Assuming Monte carlo, export and lower cross brace are all in place, appropriate and undammaged. Might want to do some chassis measurements e.g. between shock towers etc, make sure your car hasn't been a stunt double in a Big-Air scene or one of your infamous 2nd gear burnout romps...

I had the same problem with my 66. I ended up shortening the UCAs to solve the problem. There may be aftermarket UCAs in your future. That will pull the top of your tire inward and get you extra clearance in the camber curve...

One thing I found out last year is was that I drilled my arning drop incorrectly, any chance you did something similar? That was fun filling part of the hole and dremmeling it to where they belonged.

BTW, the leafs are in, got the bolt from GW - can't wait to try em...

Good luck,

M
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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 03:55 PM
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Nick, if you don't mind my $.02. Outside of replacing ball joints, shocks and sway bars that's been about the limit of my suspension work. I decide to do some upgrades to make my 66 handle better. I jumped into the deep end of the pool and bought this from Shaun



It dawned on me with definite purpose parts maybe I should learn how to do an alignment since I'm flying solo with really no one to come over and hold my hand. In addition, do I really trust a local mechanic who was born 20 years after my car who's familiar with strut cars? I spent $125 or there abouts on a magnetic bubble caster/camber gauge. It already paid for itself! With out any shims with a quick camber check I was at +3/8* on one side and +7/8* camber on the other. I would have easily spent $125 at a shop just to find that out.

On to plan B. I bought a camber kit from Shaun and started installing it. I found that I had damage done to my LH LCA bushing end and the RH bushing was shot as well. Both control arms I would say have about 6,000 miles. I just ordered a set of LCA from Shaun.

On 65-66 caster/camber is set by shims. Caster is achieved by installing more shims in the leading edge. This is basically rotating the UCA on it's rear mount towards the rear of the car. This also adds + camber. I know your 67 does not use shims and caster is set by the strut and camber by the eccentric. By any chance could some one have added shims to get caster? This would cause + camber.

Buy the caster/camber gauge definitely money well spent. Best case you do your own alignment. Worst case, you can at least see where you are or check the shops work.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.

Last edited by Huskinhano; 02-25-2013 at 03:58 PM.
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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 05:36 PM
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Buy the caster/camber gauge definitely money well spent. Best case you do your own alignment. Worst case, you can at least see where you are or check the shops work.
Which alignment tool have you been using.

Any recommendations for a good affordable alignment tool.
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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 05:52 PM
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Dodge, maybe these will fix your problem. AdjustableArms

Or can make your own.

Heim Jointed Control Arms - LCAs and UCAs - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D0ZF View Post
Which alignment tool have you been using.

Any recommendations for a good affordable alignment tool.

This is what I bought Billet Caster Camber Gauge with Alignment Shims Mustang Camaro Chevelle Charger | eBay

Don't let the Chevelle listing scare you, they're all the same. You can make it fit anything, just get a net that threads on the spindle and weld a plate on it for odd ball applications. But that's the one I bought. Other listing just include shims. Very, very easy to use! I used 3mil garage bags folded up for turn tables.

Tom

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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 08:53 PM
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My frinds and I have discussed a novel way to do alignment.
For a couple of bucks, you can use your iphone to find the caster and camber angles.

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clin...286215117?mt=8

For camber, use a straight edge against the lips of the rim.
For caster, you can hold the edge of the phone flat against the spindle.
BTW it talks to you to tell the angle also. Great in case you can see the phones face as you hold it against the spindle.

There is also a wheel alignment app called Ialign.
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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 01:31 PM
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Do you habe a shelby drop?

Searching for Mustang Fastbacks 67/68 in all condtions and also Fastback Race Cars 65/66. Please contact me with a message.
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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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yes

Nick
1965 Fastback 410c AOD - DT
1967 Fastback 347 T5- Cruiser
1968 Fastback 408w T5 - Brute
1991 GT Hatch - Fauxbra
1996 Dodge Viper GTS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LUK2D0GjdY
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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 04:31 PM
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68 Mustang Shelby drop and neg camber

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent View Post
Do you have a shelby drop?
Hi can I chime in with a question or two?

I am about to do the Shelby drop on the front suspension of my 68 Fastback.

I want to also achieve a negative camber of 1 - 1.5 degrees.

Is there a kit that will do that? I'm guessing the Shelby drop doesn't do that on it's own?

My springs are 620s and are 13.4" tall.

I'm hoping the car won't sit too low, but definitely need the desired negative camber.

The 67-68 cars are adjusted on the top control arms?? yes /no?

I was informed a few minutes ago by a well known Mustang part supplier that 67-68 Mustangs already had the Shelby drop alignment from factory? First time I heard that. Anyone?

I'm toying with getting the
Total Control Products Lower Control Arm Eccentric Eliminator Kit 1967-1973

But not sure if that'll do the necessary negative camber.

many thanks Chris
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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 05:12 PM
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