1967 Mustang, how to get more negative camber? - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #31 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by patrickstapler View Post
Hi Patrick

I'm still a little konfuzed.

There are kits like the one you mentioned that cost $70 which consist of nothing more than a couple of bolts and a quadrant plate.

Then there are UCA and LCA camber wedge plates that allegedly do a similar thing regarding camber at $350 a pop.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=cat...arent=0&year=0

Hence my concern that I will get something that is either overkill or not exactly what I need to induce 1.5* neg camber. Preferably I'd like the top of the tire to go inwards rather than the bottom to go out, thus helping with any fender clearance issues.

To reiterate, I have a 68 fastback, intend to do the Shelby drop and have 620 springs that are 13.5" tall.

Any more thoughts?
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post #32 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 09:21 AM
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The negative wedge kit is to correct the ball joint angle when the upper control arm mount is relocated more than 1 1/8" down. Without the wedge kit, the ball joint can bind and break, but is only needed if the UCA is dropped excessively. You can get the the 1" drop template for little money and use your stock ball joints with no problem, as long as they are good.

The lower arm camber bolts are a good idea and pretty cheap at $70.00 from SorT. They will allow you to fine tune the camber more so than the stock lower excentric.

John

Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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post #33 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 09:37 AM
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Chriscade: How much camber is the setting in your posted pics giving you ?
I have my 67 set at same setting w same type plates. It's not on road yet.
Joe
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post #34 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 11:19 AM
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A 68 doesn't need a camber kit,it already has it.The lower control arm eccentrics. With "stock" upper and lower control arms maximum neg camber is achieved with no shims in the upper arm mounts,not even my "normal" 1/4" in the front bolts to add caster,and the lower eccentric set with the bolt to the maximum out board position.i IIRC your looking at about 2-2 1/2deg neg.

To move the uppers in more will require a shorter upper control arm.

The Arning/Shelby drop does move the upper ball joint "in" a little due to it's change in location on the upper arm arc,additional neg camber is the result by about 1/2deg,maybe. When the suspension moves the tire does move away from the fender inner edge though.

If your goal is to stuff the biggest tire under the front your limit is the upper control arm ball joint area and the fender (first).

I have 17x8 with 5"BS 235/45 17 tire,the upper control arm is trimmed and fenders rolled.
Believe it or not a 19x9 fits with a 6 3/8" BS (current Mustang size) the rim fits OVER the upper ball joint and puts the tie rod inside the wheel too.
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post #35 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 02:45 PM
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I can't speak for the negative wedge kit as I don't have one. However, my understanding was and is what John explained in his post. My opinion would be you really don't need it for the standard Arning drop. I am also unfamiliar with the stockeccentrics on the later cars as to how much negative camber you can obtain with them.

What I can offer is I have the #2 camber plates installed on my '66 GT with new GT springs, roller spring perches, roller LCA's, Cheater UCA's, 1" sway bar with poly bushings, and no shims on the UCA's. Both sides of my car are sitting almost dead nuts at -1.5 degrees camber.

I temporarily have 15x7 TTD's 3.75" BS with 225/60-15 tires. No rolled fenders, although it would help a little and would definitely alllow more than the 1.5 degree caster I currently have. However, I will soon be going back to my 14x6 SSW's with 215/70-14 tires. So I won't be rolling anything until then and only if I have too.

Other than shortening the UCA and moving the balljoint in, there would be no other way for me to gain additional negative camber other than moving the LCA out. I can't say how all that translates to '67 and later cars.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #36 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 11:36 PM
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Essentially what you want is the UCA pivot location lower then the upper ball joint. This way as the suspension compresses it quickens the negative camber curve. Look at most of the cars from the 50's to 70's you'll notice the pivot point was higher then the ball joint and they handled like poop. The sharp NASCAR guys back in the 50's would make the spindle taller to accomplish this.

Tom

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post #37 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-20-2017, 06:37 AM
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If your upper ball joint is outside the wheel rim, you could use a mono ball ball joint. These are adjustable ball joints and allow you to effectively raise the spindle length. I used them on my FFR Cobra and they gave me much more camber gain and allowed me to adjust the roll center, but I had fabricated upper control arms that used Chrysler screw in ball joints. Ball Joint, Mono-Ball, Upper, Chrysler, K-719

John

Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.

Last edited by j persons; 01-20-2017 at 06:41 AM.
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post #38 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 08:09 AM
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Thanks everyone - going with Shelby drop and the camber adjuster kit from CJPony. If that works, happy days.
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post #39 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ShelbyGT350 View Post
Thanks everyone - going with Shelby drop and the camber adjuster kit from CJPony. If that works, happy days.

You can spend your money anyway you want,but,with a 67 you already have a "camber adjuster kit" those kits a designed for 65-66's without the lower control eccentrics. Your 67 has that already.

If that kit (I haven't looked) is the blocks with multiple holes that wont give you any more negative camber either.
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post #40 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 11:53 AM
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You can spend your money anyway you want,but,with a 67 you already have a "camber adjuster kit" those kits a designed for 65-66's without the lower control eccentrics. Your 67 has that already.

If that kit (I haven't looked) is the blocks with multiple holes that wont give you any more negative camber either.
OK thanks for that. The only reasons I'll get the camber adjuster kit is that it's not too expensive and it'll lock in place better than an eccentric wheel. (look newer too!)

If it can give up to 5* of neg - I only want 1.75 negative - see how it pans out. Lots to do in the meantime. cheers
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post #41 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 02:55 PM
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I agree with cyclone03. I don't believe it's going to have a wider range then the eccentric but as you said it'll lock the camber in place. I installed the camber kit on my 66. I believe both kits use the same blocks. It's possible that the blocks may offer more camber if the range on the eccentric is less. That's purely a guess on my part. Since the factory really never intended for negative camber it wouldn't surprise if the eccentric bolts due have less range. Again I'm just guessing and reading into it. On the You could make your own blocks, maybe grind the frame opening a tad if needed to get to your goals.
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post #42 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 09:07 AM
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1.75* - the great Marko predicts big inner tire scrub in your future - better have a good tire budget. I ended up at 1.4 which was a little overshoot, really wanted 1.2* but surprisingly both sides came out exactly 1.4 so I'm leaving it for now but I expect some tire rotations in my future. Might consider shorter A arms so you can run closer to 1* and when the car sets in a corner on that side neg camber increases, mine goes a little over 2* at the bump stop, 2.25 inch compression from 1.4* plus 4.5 degrees castor which adds neg camber as you turn in all leaving minimal scrub in straight lines...

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post #43 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 11:05 AM
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I hear you Oh Great One!

Now that my Mustang racer / builder / expert is back on the scene I think we will have to do some calculations based on the new springs, the Shelby drop and various other tweaks. Maybe 1.2 or 1.4 is the best way. I'll update when the Eagle Lands.

thanks for input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dobrostang View Post
1.75* - the great Marko predicts big inner tire scrub in your future - better have a good tire budget. I ended up at 1.4 which was a little overshoot, really wanted 1.2* but surprisingly both sides came out exactly 1.4 so I'm leaving it for now but I expect some tire rotations in my future. Might consider shorter A arms so you can run closer to 1* and when the car sets in a corner on that side neg camber increases, mine goes a little over 2* at the bump stop, 2.25 inch compression from 1.4* plus 4.5 degrees castor which adds neg camber as you turn in all leaving minimal scrub in straight lines...
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post #44 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 12:39 PM
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Be very imterested in what you learn. I am no expert but im happy to give you your money's worth of opinions ;o)
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