1967 Mustang, how to get more negative camber? - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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1967 Mustang, how to get more negative camber?

So I have all new suspension on my 1967. I installed 68 suspension that I source from John (opentracker) several years ago. Upper arms, roller perches, moog lower arms, SorT adjustable strut rods, big block springs, kyb shocks 1 1/8 sway bar. I did the shelby drop while I was in there.

When I got the aligned couldn't get the car past 0 camber.

Because of this I am unhappy with my 245 45 17 fitment. They would be PERFECT if I could get -1 camber. Car has wheel well molding that I kept in place but rolled it all with my fender roller.

On dips it will sometimes reach out and grab the driver side fender at the 10 o'clock position and bend the trim I rolled up down and out.

At first I thought maybe the tech used shims but when I was in there swapping brakes I checked it out...nope no shims. I also jacked it up and confirmed the lower eccentric bolt is at max adjustment.

I thought I should be able to get large amounts of negative camber with this setup so I don't understand what the problem is (I mean I can easily get -2.5 on my 65. Is there a length difference between 67 and 68 upper arms that might be the culprit?

What options do I have?
Do they make an eccentric bolt with a slightly smaller 'circle' on it to get more adjustment?
Can I take out my eccentric bolt and shave them down on the grinder to cheat another degree or maybe even 2 of adjustment? If so...how much material would I need to take out? Would popping out the bolt, shaving it, then reinstalling it and pushing out the lower arm a little more through the adjustment so out of whack I would need to do it all over again or can I plug and play?

Nick
1965 Fastback 410c AOD - DT
1967 Fastback 347 T5- Cruiser
1968 Fastback 408w T5 - Brute
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 10:11 PM
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Nick, do you have the factory eccentric bolts or the aftermarket adjustable plates? I have an extra set of the plates if you need more margin for adjustment. Let me know

Chris

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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Factory bolts I believe.


Nick
1965 Fastback 410c AOD - DT
1967 Fastback 347 T5- Cruiser
1968 Fastback 408w T5 - Brute
1991 GT Hatch - Fauxbra
1996 Dodge Viper GTS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LUK2D0GjdY
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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 10:59 PM
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I think you can only get this with an aftermarket UCA

I'm running with a substantial camber, but since I flared the front fenders, and now fit wider front tires, I'm going to drop it to about 1 -1.5 degree.



You might be able to use Shauns or Global West UCA's.

I'm using TCP's and like it because it has RH & LH threads on barrel bolts. No need for shims or to remove anything, once you get the camber close, you can also pitch the UCA, a little to tweak the caster, without messing with the strut rod adjustment.

I made my own solid plates with offset holes (I think it was from the opentracker site or daze cars) for the LCA's because my eccentric came loose once.


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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 05:20 AM
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Nick, I beleive the plates I have will allow you some extra travel on the eccentric bolts to offset your issue. I will let someone chime in to correct me if I am wrong, but that is the reason I purchased them as well. Pics included.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 581274_4079625598574_1924340458_n.jpg (64.1 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg K CODE PAINTED (12).jpg (91.1 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg K CODE PAINTED (16).jpg (93.7 KB, 98 views)

1967 K Code GT Fastback
1992 LX 5.0 Convt
2010 Mustang GT Convt
2003 Lightning
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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 05:44 AM
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67 & 68 uses the same uca. 67 lca is the same length as the 68 lca. the only difference between the 67 & 68 lca are the strut rod bolt holes. maybe the opentracker uca is a tad longer on centers that the stock uca. it only takes a fraction of an inch to throw things off. if you shock towers are saging outward just a tad that can also throw things off. maecomotorsport modifies stock uca's and they become 3/8" shorter on centers and that will give -camber.

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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgestang View Post
Factory bolts I believe.

Nick,

That pic is obviously before you rotated the LCA eccentric so the bolt is as far outboard as possible correct?

If so, I don't know what the solution is with stock control arms. The cause has to be either a chassis that is off, control arms that are too long or a mistake by the alignment tech.

I made our tubular UCA's adjustable so they can be shorter or longer than stock. I've had -5 degrees camber out of my 66 when I measured to see the max. I could get. It looked ridiculous!

I don't like the arms with the barrel adjusters. They trick you into speeding up your alignment by using them to help set camber/caster. Our chassis are not square/equal both sides so you will end up with different length arms on either side. This means your camber curve will be different on each side. Control arms must be the same length. By leaving out the barrel adjusters we ran a rear tube that braces the frame of the UCA and takes a large amount of the twisting loads off the bearings:



It takes longer to take apart our arms and set alignment but you'll end up with a better setup. I like to set the front bearing a few turns out further than the rear as this adds some positive caster before having to use the strut rod. I do most of the caster with the UCA, then fine tune it with the strut rod. This also stops the wheel being pulled so far forward it hits the front fender lip on turns (not to mention looks odd when the car is viewed from the side).

With time and patience I'm able to get my alignments EXACTLY the same both sides to the tenth of a degree.
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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRISCADE View Post
Nick, I beleive the plates I have will allow you some extra travel on the eccentric bolts to offset your issue. I will let someone chime in to correct me if I am wrong, but that is the reason I purchased them as well. Pics included.
You can only go as far as the slot in the LCA bracket will allow. If the stock round eccentric reaches the outboard edge of the slot when rotated then you have no more outboard adjustment.
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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-09-2012, 08:02 AM
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Listen to Shaun.....he knows his stuff.
OP could use a GW tubular lower arm as well, as it is longer than stock. He may, however,
get too much static negative camber and need to shim the upper arm out.... which
will definitely mess with his tire clearance on the fender lip.

There's no easy/cheap solution.

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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-09-2012, 09:16 AM
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Dodgestang, What kind of lift is that in your picture?

I will be trying to install a lift when I find a new home/garage up in IL in a few months.

mark
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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-09-2012, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
I made our tubular UCA's adjustable so they can be shorter or longer than stock. I've had -5 degrees camber out of my 66 when I measured to see the max. I could get. It looked ridiculous!
Ha! Only -5. Amateur.
Huskinhano and restodude like this.
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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 01:10 PM
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nick, what solution did you go with?

thanks, jason


Jason
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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't gone with one yet.

Nick
1965 Fastback 410c AOD - DT
1967 Fastback 347 T5- Cruiser
1968 Fastback 408w T5 - Brute
1991 GT Hatch - Fauxbra
1996 Dodge Viper GTS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LUK2D0GjdY
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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 04:14 PM
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Why don't you shorten the radius rod?
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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 07:51 PM
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Thats not going to help CAMBER
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