15" or 17" wheel? - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #31 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 01:28 AM
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Locking up the brakes is the bare MINIMUM requirement, not anything great.

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post #32 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 08:25 AM
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Locking up the brakes is the bare MINIMUM requirement, not anything great.
throw in no fade after repeated stops, and the ability to lock-up the brakes at speed is all a brake can do performance wise. ABS is another story entirely.

Spend the money on the right friction material for your application and save a bundle to spend elsewhere, like making the car turn a quick corner, which is one area where dropping a bundle can really make a difference.

Now if you are a 90 lb weakling, you might want reduced pedal pressure, etc. But that isn't stopping you better, only easier.

Z.

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post #33 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 01:31 PM
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throw in no fade after repeated stops, and the ability to lock-up the brakes at speed is all a brake can do performance wise. ABS is another story entirely.

Z.
This is where Shaun really has it over other kits I've seen/owned. The rotor has significant thickness so that it can shed heat repeatedly which keeps the good pads clamping. your point about the weight of the car is a good one too. I think the trend to upsize rotors and pads to the point they are on modern 'Stangs is not necessary on our cars because they weigh nearly 700lbs less (average). If you do not run open track a 6 pot caliper is complete overkill. It looks good, but it is nowhere near necessary.
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post #34 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 06:11 PM
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There is a braking advantage
Brakes just slow you down - totally overrated

I really wonder about that. If you can lock 'em up any time and do not seem to have overheating issues on tracks and autocross is there really any other advantage to giant brakes other than well... ;o)

Cheers,

M
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post #35 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 05:37 AM
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like most rules of thumb, there is an important exception to this statement: the Avon CR6zz

CR6ZZ | Avon Motorsport

it's DOT street legal, but essentially a soft compound race tire. You can have the best of both worlds with this tire, vintage looks and modern traction without the "rubber band" look of the 17" tires, which, in my opinion, look like hell on '60's cars.

I've seen cars with the Avons COMPLETELY embarrass cars with more HP, but that were running modern 17" rubber.

the downside is the cost, they will cost upward of $350 each and won't last too long.

Z.
Those are nice. They even have a part number that looks like a Ford number for a 1966 Mustang (with an extra "R" thrown in for good measure)

I'm considering a set. The high wear rate doesn't bother me much as the tires on my Mustang usually get old rather than worn (due to limited driving).
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post #36 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 11:43 PM
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HI Guys

Your all making my head hurt. Your all much farther out there than I am. I am thinking of Buying a set of 14 x7 style steel wheel from scott drake and throw out my drums for a Kelsey disc upgrade from chockostang.


Should I have to worry about using my used set of 67 styled steels on a disc brake set up?

Is the market really getting hard to find tire for 14 inches wheels?

my apologies for using Meadowlarks thread.
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post #37 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-10-2014, 01:26 AM
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I'm a fan of 15" wheels on 65-68 Mustangs for a more period-correct look. Tire selection is limited - I recommend BFG radials for regular street driving, Avon CR6ZZ for street/track or wet track, and Hoosier TDS for dry track.
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post #38 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 11:59 AM
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14" wal mart in Florida seems to stock them
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post #39 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 01:51 PM
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15". If you want something that handles, get a BMW.


68 Fastback.
351Windsor, 4sp, 8" 3.40 TracLok
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...ld-thread.html
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post #40 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 01:54 PM
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Tell that to all the late model M3's that can't keep up with me lol.
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post #41 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Meadowlark Yellow View Post
Thanks for all the feedback on this question - it has been interesting reading.

Right now I'm leaning toward two options (both in anthracite):

AR Torque Thrust M 17 X 7 , 4" BS, 235/50 R17 all 4 corners

OR

AR Torque Thrust M, 17X8, 4.5" BS, 245/45 R17 all 4 corners

Based upon my research, these should be a slam dunk for fitment, although I've seen 17X7 4.25 & 17X8 4.75 suggested.

Does anyone think I should expect any rubbing problems with either of these? 1968 FB, Global west front (with 1 3/8" upper arm drop - lowered around 1"), stock rear lowered 1".


EDIT: I'm going from 205/75R14 on the front now, and the car drives very nicely - should I expect much change in bump steer, or a tendency to follow ruts in the road (paved roads - like where semits travel alot asphalt their tires tend to make ruts)?
Thanks again,

Andrew
I ran 17x8 TTM's with 4.5" BS and 235/45/17 tires all round on my 66. All I did was roll the fender lips. Fit great.

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post #42 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 03:50 PM
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Just did a quick google and didn't have any problems finding normal sized 15 inch tires. 275 60 15 or 275 60R15 Discount Tires
Now if you need a larger diameter for brakes or more track oriented tires that would be the only reason I would consider going larger.


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post #43 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 11:30 PM
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I'll trade you my 15" steel style wheels for a set of 16" aluminum styled wheels! LOL. But the new aluminum wheels do look boss!
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post #44 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 02:10 PM
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Just did a quick google and didn't have any problems finding normal sized 15 inch tires. 275 60 15 or 275 60R15 Discount Tires
Now if you need a larger diameter for brakes or more track oriented tires that would be the only reason I would consider going larger.
A 275/60 15 front and rear would be HUGE tires on a 66 and rear only on a 67-68,and maybe even a 69-70.
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post #45 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 02:17 PM
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Yup, it's huge for width AND height IMO.
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