Want to build a corner carver - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Want to build a corner carver

Hey VMF, first post here but not new to Mustangs. I've got a 66 coupe, 4 speed manual with a 289 that I've owned for 10 years and would like to improve the chassis. Not pertinent to old Mustangs but I also own a 04 GT with a full Griggs Racing chassis. I've been doing research for quite some time and would like some opinions for the 66.

Not sure if I should go full blown modern chassis on it or do a mix of old school with a modern twist. First off I snagged a set of Global West uppers to do a Shleby drop, they were used so I don't have a template. I understand there is a one inch or a 1.75 drop, any opinions on which would be better? I've been exercising the idea of rack and pinion or doing a FR quick ratio box and rebuilding the factory stuff. I love how quick and easy steering is on any new car, I don't mind the effort of manual steering but if I decide to auto x or do driving events I want quick responsiveness. I'm open for any set ups or experience you guys have!

Thanks!
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post #2 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 08:18 PM
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Don't do any drilling for the Shelby drop until you get a template. The new holes are not directly downward.
Global West has a website. Get ahold of them. I'm sure they will get you a template somehow.

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post #3 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 08:47 PM
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http://www.opentrackerracingproducts...s/template.jpg

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post #4 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Do you guys have any opinions on rebuilding stock steering vs R&P set ups? Pros and cons?
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post #5 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 09:10 AM
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No R&P for me. I'm running manual with a Flaming River (new in 2002) box.

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post #6 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverblueBP View Post
Neither of those is the right drop template for Global West upper arms.
The drop on their arms currently is 1.5" ....... the reason I say currently is
because that number has changed at least once since 1984.
I'm traveling this week, so your best bet is to call them and see if you
can score one that way.

I really don't care for the R&P kits that are out. Too much compromise.
The only good one's I've seen are all custom rack setups.

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post #7 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 01:06 PM
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post #8 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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I was digging around my parts pile and realized I have the templates and some hardwear. I installed some new ball joints in my used GW arms and got one side installed already. I called GW just for grins and they said their drop is 1 3/8 apparently.

As far as steering goes Im not sure what to do. Quick ratio boxes run in 500 or 600 range plus other items I'll service while Im in there like tie rods or what ever. Not sure if I should also run a Shelby pitman arm or is that only for use with stock steering? Flaming River makes a steering rack/tilt steering combo for 1200. Thats tempting considering I'd like a tilt column and a new box would be 50 percent of the cost of a RP set up. Im sure with either set up I'll have to correct bump steer. Another consideration, IIRC, steering effort is heavily related to scrub radius so rack and pinion or not I've got some more figuring out to do...
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post #9 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalStang66 View Post
I was digging around my parts pile and realized I have the templates and some hardwear. I installed some new ball joints in my used GW arms and got one side installed already. I called GW just for grins and they said their drop is 1 3/8 apparently.
That's just today (and depending upon who you talk to there), tomorrow maybe
different
I have both 1 3/8" steel and 1 1/2" blue plexiglass in my tool box.

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post #10 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I ripped the pony around and seems to be better, I didn't have time to align it tonight so I'll do it tomorrow. Not sure what I think yet, I know it's an improvement but its hard to tell. Steering is sloppy and I'm sure there is zero caster because I lost all my self centering on the steering. I'm almost certain I have way to much negative camber also. I'd like to get adjustable strut rods from GW but I'm running 16x8 wheels with a 225 tire, IIRC it's a 55 side wall, but they rub like crazy. So if I add more caster through strut rods it will just get worse.
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post #11 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 09:47 PM
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post #12 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 09:51 PM
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Need either measurement or photo of front ride height.

225 is not max'd, but rim offset may not be ideal

Yes, if you just did the "Shelby" drop you are prob camber heavy. Get the camber eccentric eliminators.

Wouldn't have thought the caster would have changed remarkably unless you moved the lower arm too. But yes caster can change the rotation axis. Where is it rubbing front/back fender:frame

Don't forget in the end to compensate for bump steer. You'll never be happy with the lowering until you do. Neither of these mod's are pricey and there are several good strut rod solutions. Do NOT run Poly on stock type as it just binds and doesn't fix problems.

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post #13 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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I have no idea how much it's lowered, I know the center of the wheel from the ground to top of the wheel well is 24.5 inches. I know that means nothing with out a pic but its tucked. It rubs the front lower part of the fender. I really like GW bump steer kit but I'm not sure if I'm going to run RP or factory steering so I want to make sure it's compatible with any bump steer kit I get. I'd actually like to get new springs front and rear with Bilstiens or some other quality shock. I'm sure with bump steer and the terrible rebound control of my tired KYB's that doesn't help either.
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post #14 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalStang66 View Post
I'm running 16x8 wheels with a 225 tire, IIRC it's a 55 side wall, but they rub like crazy. So if I add more caster through strut rods it will just get worse.
You are fighting yourself.

16x8 wheels, to fit on a mustang have 4.5 backspacing, which is limiting factor number 1 (aka with a larger rim you could move everything inward another .25 inch.

A 225 55 16 is 26 inches tall and your car's ride height is 24.5 so where other people can live the backspacing on the 16x8 you can't which is limited factor number 2

You need more - camber to keep the tires from rubbing plain and simple with how you have it configured at this point.
You also need the adjustable rods not necessarily for the caster (that is a benefit) but for the solid mount and lose the deflection of the bushing in your stock strut.

You then need to install your upper arms either according to the global west instructions (best) or at least in the shelby drop location and then you need to take it and get it aligned with -2.5 camber, as much caster as you want and 1/8 toe. If it rubs after that roll your fender lips. If it rubs after than, go to -3.

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post #15 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-05-2013, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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I think I'll order up GW strut rods. Im going to get it up on the alignment rack today and get some base line specs. Im still not sire which route to go with the steering. I adjusted my steering box successfully but slow ratio makes it less fun to drive.
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