Roll bars - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Roll bars

Looking at possible solutions for roll bars for my '65 coupe. I was wondering why I haven't seen any kits that have legs going from the main hoop back to the rear frame rails in the trunk. It looks like most or all with rear legs go to the inner wheel housing.

Would it not be more desirable to have the rear legs go to the rear frame rails?

Regards,
Patrick
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post #2 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 10:37 PM
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I ordered an Autopower cage for my 67 last week. If you order a weld together kit you can put the rear legs where you want them. I agree though not the best place for a plate to go. I may be wrong but using the short rear legs is mainly for making them easier to ship.


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Last edited by A/S65; 05-06-2013 at 10:41 PM.
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post #3 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 10:40 PM
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Competition Engineering has kits like you want, but its not direct fit. You have to do a lot of the fitting yourself. But I'm sure you have the skill set to do that. BL

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1966 mustang coupe GT350H clone
5.0L, GTP heads ported, RPM, E303, Holley 650 CFM, GForce T5, Tri-Y 2.5" X, 411:1, Global West front & rear, Wilwood front, Cobra rears, Caltracs
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post #4 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 10:49 PM
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I went with the autopower rollbar and bought it from mustangs unlimited, cost me about $400 maybe $450 and it does go to the inner wheel housing. It is specifically built for the 65-66 mustang coupe, and they make it custom for you. I can only think they did it that way since it is unibody, but it make sense to go to the rear frame rail. The issue would be cosmetic, because you would need to fabricate a trunk divider with the rails going thru it to the rear frame rail, not that it cant be done, just wont be too pretty I guess. It is a safety device though, your guess is as good as mine. If you want something like that, you are best to get a custom bar made for your car, and welded in by the same person making it for you, prolly run $1000 I think. And they couldn't be straight bars cuz of your window and trunk. Is it a drag car, what is the reason for the roll bar? My car is set up for track and I wanted the 5 point belts and less flex, so I used a bolt in bar. I welded bar should be better, but with bolt in, they can of course be removed rather easily with minor damage. For the price, I think the autopower is the best you can get, and could weld or bolt it.
Attached Images
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1966 C code coupe. Ford Racing Crate Z363, TKO600, TCP front coil over, TCP Rear pushrod suspension, TCP subframe connectors, TCP power rack and pinion, 13" Baer 6p front and rear brakes, Autopower Rollbar, track ready 500hp/450TQ!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/106090162@N02/
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post #5 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 04:37 AM
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yes , run it all the way back and split and weld a reinforing plate to the trunk divider. drill holes in a 3/16" thick plate and drill holes through the trunk sheetmetal above the rear spring mount where the frame is at its widest point and weld the plate directly to the farme rail and around the edges to the sheet metal. use 1-5/8" dom. weld a diagonal from the left back side of the main hoop to the right side plate that was welded to the trunk floor. this will help conteract torque.

heres 2 fotos of my bars that go all the way into the trunk. going to the wheelwhell is good but going to the rear of the frame rail is best.
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File Type: jpg CAGE 1.jpg (17.9 KB, 240 views)
File Type: jpg CAGE 2.jpg (21.0 KB, 208 views)

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post #6 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I don't mind doing the work. We have a tube bender at work. I can weld plus I work with a cert'ed MIG/TIG welder if needed. I can even measure, design it, 3D model it, and run a stress model on it if I need too. I just didn't want to reinvent the wheel if I didn't have too.

Building it to be a open track car. The Autopower units look nice and those are all great looking examples of work. I was just wondering if there was a certain reasoning behind going to the inner wheel house on a coupe rather than the frame rail. A/S65 may be onto the reasoning for the Autopower designs.

Thanks for the input and pics.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #7 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 12:07 PM
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I modified my Autopower cage and ran the rear bars to the frame rails instead of the wheel wells. Not into the trunk, but at the rise of the back seat area.


-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"

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post #8 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Silverblue, which kit did you purchase? Hard to tell from the window glare but it looks like you have extra bars in there.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #9 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickstapler View Post
Silverblue, which kit did you purchase? Hard to tell from the window glare but it looks like you have extra bars in there.
6pt bolt-in cage. Bought it back in 99 I think. Made a couple mods to it and welded bigger foot plates to the car. I have more pics at my cardomain site.

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"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"

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post #10 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Nice photos. Those will come in handy. Thanks.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #11 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 08:47 PM
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I regret not taking pics of the bare cage install before the carpet went back in.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"

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post #12 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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I was new to the site not long after you posted video of when you grenaded the engine. Made me sick. I can't even imagine how you felt. I don't think I ever saw what engine route you decided to go with after that.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #13 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 09:11 AM
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Built a street 302 and it's running again. I don't have the time nor the money to build another race motor since I just opened up a new business. It'll have to wait awhile.

Nothing fancy,.030" over 302. Stock internals, 66 289 heads ported very similar to my race heads. It has plenty of grunt, but nothing over 5,000 rpm.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"

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post #14 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 09:27 AM
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gonna track it with that motor or done playing for a while too?

Sucks when things break, that's for sure!
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post #15 of 68 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 09:45 AM
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Just wanted to point this out. There are cages for a track with corners that you lap on, and, there a cages for quarter mile trips.

Roddster
67 GT 350: MCA & SAAC Gold winner
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