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Help Build 289 for 67 T/A Race Car

7K views 10 replies 10 participants last post by  GT350HR 
#1 ·
I would like to get some input on an engine build. The car will be a 100% racecar, so I'm not concerned about "streetability." It is a 67 coupe T/A clone that is all stripped out (plastic windows, etc.) so should be fairly lightweight. I have a toploader and a 3.80 axle for it. Manual brakes and manual steering.

I have a 65 289 A-code long block that I would like to keep somewhat low budget; and rules do not permit stroker motors or aluminum or Cleveland heads. For now, I plan to keep the stock heads (will port with screw in rocker studs, roller rockers, and larger valves). I will be using the stock crank and rods and balance the rotating assembly with a lightweight flywheel. Since this will only be 289 cid, I'd like it to handle (and make power) at high RPM (7kish). Other than polishing and stress relieving the rods, should I add 3/8" ARP bolts or is using 5/16" ARP bolts good enough? Of course the rest of the engine will use ARP studs.

The cylinder walls look great, and I don't think I'll need to overbore it. If I'm able to get away with just a hone, should I reuse the a-code pistons? The valve reliefs are much smaller than aftermarket pistons and I want to keep the compression as high as possible. If not, are there any flat-top hypereutectic pistons with only 2 valve reliefs?

I would like to run a solid roller cam in this build. Does anyone have any recommendations, or should I just stick to a solid flat tappet similar to the old LeMans cam?

I was thinking about a single-plane intake like the Vic. Jr. Would that be a good choice for this build, or would the heads limit the effectiveness? The carburetor is a 4150 600 CFM Holley HP (also limited by rules).

Any input would be appreciated, thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Make sure to build within the rules. I wish I could run a solid roller cam...rules won't allow it in vintage.

That stock crank will work for awhile and then it'll go boom. Been there, done that! Go with a Weiand stealth intake. Talk to a cam manufacturer (I use Elgin cams) and get the cam that's best for your setup.

You need to do a lot of research about engine parts so they all work together. Find a local guy that builds Ford road race engines (assuming this will be a road race car and not a straightliner) and make friends with him. I'm really lucky to have made friends just like that almost 20 yrs ago. Read this book by my friend: http://www.amazon.com/Revved-Up/dp/1629024961 by Dean Steward.
 
#4 ·
Make sure to build within the rules. I wish I could run a solid roller cam...rules won't allow it in vintage.

That stock crank will work for awhile and then it'll go boom. Been there, done that! Go with a Weiand stealth intake. Talk to a cam manufacturer (I use Elgin cams) and get the cam that's best for your setup.

You need to do a lot of research about engine parts so they all work together. Find a local guy that builds Ford road race engines (assuming this will be a road race car and not a straightliner) and make friends with him. I'm really lucky to have made friends just like that almost 20 yrs ago. Read this book by my friend: http://www.amazon.com/Revved

-Up/dp/1629024961
by Dean Steward.
Really accurate statement picking parts out of a catalog never works out like Invisioned. IF building it yourself is the only way I'd look at a few built fords and copy the receipe.

Stock crank to 7k is asking a lot of it, and if you want to keep the block around a crank upgrade would be advised.
 
#5 ·
67 t/a Cougar 289

I built a 289 and raced Autocross and road raced in Texas from 76 to 93 with motor built similar to what you are looking for. 12.5 trw forged pistons, 69 351 w heads with chevy valves. roller rockers, ford Lemans solid cam. Wiend 360 intake 700 cfm dp I modified. MSD 6 , BOSS 302 pan with baffled valve covers. two fuel pumps front and back, 3/8 in fuel line, Accusump oil with double filters, and oil cooler. 12.5lb alum. flywheel. I raced the entire time with the same crank and modified rods, 7K red line. 2700 lb car with roll cage. chasis built to Boss 302 Chasis Manual specs including the Lincoln brakes with some additional twikking to rear suspension. recommendations, restrict the oil to the valves and open up the drain back to the pan. Good luck with a decent power steering system. Racehorse retired
 
#6 ·
I built a 289 and raced Autocross and road raced in Texas from 76 to 93 with motor built similar to what you are looking for. 12.5 trw forged pistons, 69 351 w heads with chevy valves. roller rockers, ford Lemans solid cam. Wiend 360 intake 700 cfm dp I modified. MSD 6 , BOSS 302 pan with baffled valve covers. two fuel pumps front and back, 3/8 in fuel line, Accusump oil with double filters, and oil cooler. 12.5lb alum. flywheel. I raced the entire time with the same crank and modified rods, 7K red line. 2700 lb car with roll cage. chasis built to Boss 302 Chasis Manual specs including the Lincoln brakes with some additional twikking to rear suspension. recommendations, restrict the oil to the valves and open up the drain back to the pan. Good luck with a decent power steering system. Racehorse retired
Thanks for everyone's input so far. Racehorse, sounds like a cool car! Thanks for the advice on the heads. I'm planning on running the 1.94 and 1.6 chevy valves. In addition to the port job, I'll open up the oil return holes a tad. I've haven't had very good luck with the PS system on my street car when driving it hard on the track, so I won't be running power steering on this car - one less thing to break.

All of the solid roller camshafts I have seen have too much lift for my build, so I've been doing a little research running an HR cam with solid roller lifters. It sounds like it is ok to do, and will give the cam a little more top end. Any thoughts?
 
#10 ·
Surprised no one has mentioned rotating the pistons(notch toward the rear...not the front). It changes the rod angle in relation to the crankpin. Its like running a little longer rod(but your not!) Good for a 5% increase in power alone. Arp rod bolts are a great idea. Will extend the "safety" margin to 7 grand for the rods.
Would think a crank girdle would help the crank stick around@7000+ rpm. Also a quality balancer will help
 
#11 ·
Not every piston has pin offset. Turning one around without offset is worthless. Look for an arrow or notch if it is directional +1 on the quality balancer as well as a GOOD oil pan not a cheap "catalog" higher capacity one. A girdle is a waste of time and money.
 
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