Yes, take it somewhere to press it out for you, shouldn't charge you too much for that. I have seen folks use the bolts and nuts to press them on, but I would have them press it into the new drum at the sometime if you have both parts.
I used a file to file away the swedged part on the bolt. There really isn't too much and it goes quick. Look at the stud by the drum. You'll see a little bit of the stud pitched to holed the drum on.
You must be referring to the front. Just curious as to why you want to separate the drum from the hub. Please don't say because you want to work on the brakes!
In addition to the studs helping hold the drum and hub together you need to remember rust. There is most likely a significant amount of rust between the mating surfaces of the hub and drum and that rust acts as glue. I once was trying to separate the hub and drum on the rear axle of an F600. No amount of wailing away at it with a big hammer would separate the two pieces. Finally I resorted to the Oxy/Acet torch with a rosebud tip. I started heating the face of the drum with the hub behind it. At some point I finally heard a "pop"and the hub literally fell out of the drum. The back of the drum and the face of the hub were covered with rust and the heat broke it loose.
Not trying to salvage the drum, getting ready for rotors. I'll probably bring to a shop and have it pressed out. I'll wait until I have the rotors just in case they need to be pressed on.
Just an FYI, the proper way to remove them would be to use a tool that cuts the 'swedge' (that's the part of the stud that gets smashed at the lip where it meets the drum so it holds it tight) off the shoulder of the stud where it comes thru the drum and then press it out. (yeah, you can beat em out with a hammer but if you get a stubborn one you can warp the hub.....) To press it out you support the area around the base of the stud so no chance of warping. Those tools and such were not common back in the 80's when I was doing it, much less so now. (You can use an old socket or piece of pipe on the underside for that support if you must hammer them out.) Another thing that can happen if you just beat 'em out without cutting the swedge is you can oversize the hole and then the new stud will be loose. Not as much of an issue if you are going to put the drum back on and swedge in some new studs, but since your putting rotors on pretty sure you'll want the studs to be a tight fit without having to do that.
Do they even make a disc brake conversion that re-uses the old hub?? I thought all the new rotors went directly onto the old spindles with new bearings and seals???
The plan is to use the MustangSteve's kit to mount 94-2004 13" Cobra rotors and calipers. Uses drum brake spindles and hubs.
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