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Help me upgrade my suspension! grab-a-trak didnt last

13K views 63 replies 22 participants last post by  MaK_1967v8 
#1 ·
So 3 years ago - when I started restoring my car - I went cheap.

I've replaced all the suspension parts with Grab-a-trak from mustangs plus.

$549 full kit - https://www.mustangsplus.com/1967-1968-1969-1970-Mustang-Spring-And-Sway-Bar-Kit-Grab-A-Trak-R.html
$79 - UCAs - https://www.mustangsplus.com/1967-1973-Mustang-Upper-Control-Arms-Grab-A-Trak-R.html
$47 - LCAs - https://www.mustangsplus.com/1965-1966-Mustang-Lower-Control-Arms-Grab-A-Trak-R.html
$19 - spring perch - https://www.mustangsplus.com/1965-1973-Mustang-Spring-Perch-Grab-A-Trak.html

= ~ $700 for pretty much every suspension part. I was ok with that.

Within the year my car was being restored (and not moving) ---- the bushings for those had already cracked!!



Last month or so I cut 1/2 a turn off the front coils to level the car out (nose was pitching up) and it drove pretty much the same - however i have 2000 miles on the car now - and the shocks have starting to squeak and sound like they're going out. They have a lifetime warranty---- so i'm sure they'll replace the shocks... however I should probably just upgrade them.

I've only 100% commuted the car (in LA traffic) so far - but wanted to take it to the track for the first time.

I've decided on Koni Classics and - looks like i'm in for $400 for a full set of those

but my main question is the other parts - the UCAs, the LCAs - the bushings.... can anyone attest to ones that are a significant improvement over the grab-a-trak?
 
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#2 ·
The most thrown around names I see here are Open Tracker and Street or Track.

Probably opposite ends of the cost structure with those, but it will give you a place to start your search.

I'm using Control Freaks coil-over setup on the front & rear of my 65, but I don't have it on the road yet, so no feedback. I didn't have the budget to afford the Street or Track stuff...if I had more to spend, I would have gone with Street or Track.
 
#3 ·
For LCA's I had great luck with buying a new set of Moog units and boxing them in with plate for stiffening. If you do a search you can probably find pictures.

I went with TCP Upper (adjustable) UCA's and like them as well. Pricey for sure though if you're looking at Konis, maybe pricing isn't the main concern. I went with those koni's as well and have not been disappointed.

Phil
 
#5 ·
perfect - thanks guys thats what im looking for - just names of something to start research.

TCP / street or track UCA's - top quality for sure --- @ $6-750 I can see how the ones I have must be utter crap lol.


wondering if spring perches also really make any difference - vary in quality / performance?
 
#8 ·
I put Johns Open Tracker parts on my Boss and on the 65 Hipo. Been happy with both cars for spirited street driving, but have not done any track. On the hipo, I had a LCA arm go bad and John took care of it with no problem.
 
#10 ·
I am in the middle of putting parts on the car that I hope to have on the road by spring or sooner. I contemplated putting together a system using various vendors but I ended up getting the full coil-over kit from Street or Track.

Of the vendors for parts I have dealt with, Shaun from Street or Track and John and Shari from Opentracker have been awesome to deal with.

BTW, I am also in the LA/ OC area and do plan on occasionally driving the stang to work, maybe on Fridays when the 91 has slightly less traffic...
 
#11 ·
damn-- thanks for the info Shaun!

one of my main goals are for things to not squeak over speed bumps (i know thats a tall ask of an old mustang) - I know poly bushings can tend to squeak -
I'm also looking to lower the car a bit than it is - I have a rather large gap in the wheel well (even after cutting a 1/2 turn off the front 620 springs.


i was looking at this beast on your site - Street or Track Tubular Upper Roller Control Arms - but sounds like your suggesting replacing other parts first -

so i'll grab one of these https://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Adjustable-Strut-Rods-pr-16135.html and then do you have a bushing kit? cant seem to find one on your site?



as for the Koni's - i've probably gone through 50 different forums and no one can make up their mind - between koni, bilstein, and KYB ---- I found a deal on Koni's for half off - without a doubt will be an improvement for what I have ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


 
#12 ·
All the parts we offer will make an improvement. You can do it all at once or if budget doesn't allow, tip-toe into it. In the front end, the strut rods make the biggest improvement in my opinion. Start there if you can't do the entire thing. Just consider though that you will have to go through multiple alignments if you add a piece here and a piece there...
 
#17 ·
#22 ·
I'm open to it - assuming I'll want to still get better and adjustable UCAs as well as a camber kit?

i've been reading through this post - http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/638938-upper-control-arm-shelby-drop.html


the only thing i've done so far is cut my 620 springs 1/2 turn to make the ride height level.

I would like to lower both front and rear at least an inch - but not sure whats the most cost effective system (or part) that will permit that along with upgrading the handling.
 
#27 ·
I got my suspension kit from Mustangs Plus probably around 15 or so years ago Pre Grab A Track They called it Magna back then .I think they have since sourced cheaper parts from else where .I will admit to having some squeaks, I have a lot of ploy bushings .But typically shocks aren't noted for squeaking:shrug:
 
#37 ·
I agree with Shaun,
The first step should be the strut rod conversion. Konis are superior to KYBs in every way. Be prepared for more "road noise" when you begin eliminating rubber bushings.
 
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#38 ·
Even as a noobie I could tell the difference between a good set of shocks and cheap. Go with at least Koni or Bilsteins.

I've completely eliminated rubber bushings. Nada, zilch. Not even in the idler arm. I honestly can't say it's had any increase in road noise or harshness. The only thing I noticed besides much improved response is maybe it feels like a set of low profile tires. If I really pay attention I can notice a very slight feeling of the road surface. Just driving normally you probably wouldn't notice anything on my car. I run 215/60/15 tires.
 
#43 ·
UPDATE:

So I have all the new parts on the car on the lift -

between the shelby drop, the free-er moving roller rocker joints, and the 1/2 turn I cut off my 620 springs --- the spring is now too short and i can just pull it out of position, theres a good 1" gap at full suspension droop (eg, on lift)

called Sean and he suggested adding a droop limiter -


after some google-fu I found someone made one out of a cable tie and bolted it to the UCA and the chasis.


Shock question for lowered car - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite


I wondering if anyone can give me better info on making one - I've seen old land rover defenders using what looked like seat-belt straps to prevent full droop.
 
#45 ·
Yes! I found this out on my car, too much droop. I honestly believe this is the problem most people experience. On my car after I had installed a Baer bump steer kit I was running out of travel on the rod end before the suspension ran out of travel. This binds the steering linkage up and as a result the camber goes positive and the tires toe in. I think with stock tie rod ends the boot covers this and is not noticed. Trying different thinks I installed 1" spacers under the shocks to limit. I'm not overly in love with it. I think I'm going to try cables.



 
#49 ·
If you lookup Dorman Tailgate Cables, they come in different lengths. You could probably find one that is about the right length and mount them if it makes you feel safer.

Just be careful and don't make them too short. If you take a corner hard and the suspension is abruptly stopped, bad things can happen.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#52 · (Edited by Moderator)
I myself just did a bunch of suspension upgrades within the last year. The difference from before and after is amazing.

Before:
- Original leaf/coil springs
- Original UCA's/LCA's
- Kyb gas a joke shocks
- Stock type strut rods
- 1 1/8" front sway bar
- 3/4" rear sway bar
- Slapper type traction bars

Car rode like a dump truck and was very bouncy over bumps and not comfortable to ride in.

After:
- Maier Racing leaf/coil springs 1/2 coil cut
- Moog UCA's/LCA's
- Bilstein sport valved shocks
- PTP adjustable strut rods
- PTP competition crossmember
- Opentracker roller spring perches
- All new shackles and bushings
- Took slapper bars and rear sway bar off
- Shelby 1" drop
- Alignment with Shelby specs

Now the car handles much better, much more comfortable to drive and also handles considerably better. I'd definitely recommend some or all of what I and others have done. I'd love to have coil overs but couldn't justify spending thousands of dollars on a car I only drive during the summer time.
 
#57 ·
I probably should have sprung the extra 800 difference for the coil overs --- considering I probably could have put them on myself and I ended up paying 800 in labor to get all my parts on

But - luckily I dont think i'll need to do any more adjustments with my new setup. between the koni shocks, the roller joins, and the shelby drop -- Im loving the way it handles and the ride height.

big drawback now that the suspension feels modern - is that I've become hyper-aware of how ****ty my steering is!




 
#58 ·
Shaun, just out of curiosity how hard would it be to convert your regular arms to coil over? I'm guessing remove the brackets for the spring perch. Not to mention the other parts. Hey do an upgrade service on a customer's arms. Right now I'm very happy with my set up. Been a few years, huh?
 
#59 ·
Easy. You'll just need the coilover upper arm frame and ball joint. The non-coilover UCA shaft and bearings are the same.

Then, of course you'll need the coilover spring/shock assembly with upper and lower brackets.
 
#60 ·
Here's my current suspension setup on my 67:

Before:
- Grab-a-Trak 620 lb coils (no coils cut yet)
- 4.5 reverse eye leaf springs
- Moog UCAs/LCAs
- Kyb gas-a-just shocks
- Stock type strut rods w/ new bushings/hardware
- 1 1/8" front sway bar
- Prothane shackles
- Roller Spring perches
- Roller Idler Arm
- Shelby drop

I haven't tracked too many miles on this setup and have maybe 100 miles on it, I must say I have no complaints about this setup. I advise it to everybody, to be honest.

With that being said, i don't get how the OP blew through grab-a-trak parts that quickly.
 
#61 ·
Here's my current suspension setup on my 67:


I haven't tracked too many miles on this setup and have maybe 100 miles on it, I must say I have no complaints about this setup. I advise it to everybody, to be honest.

With that being said, i don't get how the OP blew through grab-a-trak parts that quickly.

im not sure how either. I think i had 1,800 miles for the 2 years they were on. the rubber bushings cracked before I even drove them (car was in the shop for 6 months)
 
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