Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Maverick MC swap questions

3K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  Huskinhano 
#1 ·
I picked up a "maverick" 15/16 disc/drum Master.

What is everyone doing for brake line to deal with the different fitting size from the Maverick vs. the Mustang?

Stock drum/drum 68 Mustang master has 1/2x20 fitting in the rear of the MC for the front brakes and 9/16 x 18 fitting at the front of the MC for the rear brakes

The "maverick" MC I picked up has 1/2x20 fitting in the rear for front brakes and an adapter to I forgot what size, the reason I put "maverick" in quotes was because of this adapter. The front fitting for the rear brakes has 7/16 x 24 for rear brakes.

So... the stock mustang tube from the rear of the master for the fronts fits perfect and I thought I would just buy a 12" length of complete flared and fitted tubing and bend up the curly-cue to the distribution valve. I hastily bought a 12" length from Summit that filled the bill except that it is 1/4" tubing and stainless instead of 3/16 and steel. Bending that up was quite a task, for me at least. It does fit, but looks a bit dog chewed... Do I just buy a double flaring tool and make up my own stuff?

Next question is; Are there differences in the distribution block if it is a drum/drum, disc/drum, or disc/disc?

Also, I am only temporarily going to use a disc/drum set up as the rear will get swapped to disc when I do the exploder rear swap at the time I do the T-5 conversion, so I assume that removing the residual valve is possible when that swap is done?
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I have flared my own when using the Maverick master. I cut off the ends and did swap the fittings to get what I needed. I also use a junkyard proportioning valve instead of the distribution block/ and adjustable valve. I disassemble, clean and reassemble the P-valve, and usually have to make a flare for the rear break line to fit the P-valve (if i remember correctly?) as for the rear discs, I can't help there.
 
#3 ·
I'm guessing you'll need to swap out the master when you go to rear discs, or add a prop valve on the rear line- I could be wrong. A piece of advice- don't waste time bending and flaring stainless lines. That crap is hard as hell to get a good double flare and always seems to leak (for me anyway). I think in my case I'd have better luck trying to stack marbles! I've since always used the standard coated brake line and it works much better..
 
#6 · (Edited)
I picked up a "maverick" 15/16 disc/drum Master.

Also, I am only temporarily going to use a disc/drum set up as the rear will get swapped to disc when I do the exploder rear swap at the time I do the T-5 conversion, so I assume that removing the residual valve is possible when that swap is done?
You'll get lots of opinions on here. You don't even have to worry about whether the master has
an internal residual valve; 15/16" bore isn't enough for front and rear disc. You'll want
a 1" bore. You want fairly big reservoirs too. The 67/68 Mustang drum master (1") is about
the absolute minimum. I can't recommend it for street use. I'd get an aluminum 1" from
Cobra Automotive.
http://store.cobraautomotive.com/1-bore-master-cylinder-only/
I'm pretty sure they're still aluminum.... description says cast iron though.


ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
#7 ·
You'll get lots of opinions on here. You don't even have to worry about whether the master has
an internal residual valve; 15/16" bore isn't enough for front and rear disc. You'll want
a 1" bore. You want fairly big reservoirs too. The 67/68 Mustang drum master (1") is about
the absolute minimum. I can't recommend it for street use. I'd get an aluminum 1" from
Cobra Automotive.
1'' Bore Master Cylinder only
I'm pretty sure they're still aluminum.... description says cast iron though.


ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

I have 72 discs in front on my 66. I run a disc/drum master, I think for a 72 Mustang. It's a 1" bore and no residual check valve. I find it to be completely satisfactory.
 
#15 ·
On the distribution block, if I understand correctly, since my 68 is a drum/drum car it has no proportioning incorporated into the distribution block so I need to add a proportioning valve valve now that it is disc regardless if the rear is drum or disc. Is this correct? valve suggestions?
 
#16 · (Edited)
Do yourself a favor and get a decent flaring tool! They don't cost much more and the only difference between "regular" and double-flare tools are the mushroom caps for the initial flare. This is about the best deal I've found:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/16795059...75035&wl11=online&wl12=16795059&wl13=&veh=sem

Then buy the HF flare kit, keep the mushrooms and throw the rest of it in your tool box for doing home plumbing stuff... :)

NiCopp lines are easier for bigger bends and easier to flare, but they won't make as tight a bend as the coated alloy stuff.

I just finished getting the parking brakes hooked-up (so I could actuate the rear Caddy p-brake assemblies to get the pads snugged-up). Mentioning since I've got a 15/16 bore aluminum MC from an '88 Ranger manual brake application. Granada discs up front.

The pedal feels pretty good, but won't know until I drive I drive it next week...they'll lock up...or they won't! I suspect GT289 is right though...there's a lot of complicated (to me) math that goes into calculating what size will work, but it's telling that the only factory 4-wheel manual disc cars I've seen ALWAYS came with a 1" bore MC.

The only thing I don't get it a proportioning valve for 4WD...don't you want as much pressure as you can get to ALL the brakes when running manual disc? Unless you have a weird disparity (e.g. rears that have the same or close piston area as fronts), why would you need one? A lot of guys run 4WD on 60's and older hot rod stuff around here and none use a proportioning valve. None seem to have a problem with rears locking-up first. Definitely willing to learn something though!!
 
#17 ·
you can go w/ an adjustable P-valve and your stock distribution block, but you will have to block off a port on your block, or fab a new line. Or you can use a stock ford proportioning valve from another car and fab some flares. Both solutions will get you there. I have done it both ways and they are just fine.
 
#18 ·
I see in the pic posted by Huskinhano he has the MC tube straight to the proportion valve, with what I assume is blocked ports on the distribution block. Why couldnt the proportion valve install after the distribution block? Shouldnt it be this way to keep the brake warning light function from the distribution block? Or am I missing something.
 
#19 ·
No, you are correct, you can plumb it either way, but using the block does allow for the warning light as you noted.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dads68stang
#21 ·
I picked up a "maverick" 15/16 disc/drum Master.

Also, I am only temporarily going to use a disc/drum set up as the rear will get swapped to disc when I do the exploder rear swap at the time I do the T-5 conversion, so I assume that removing the residual valve is possible when that swap is done?
Couple of things here. Yes you can remove the residual valve (RV), at least I have done it on a 69 F150 MC I put in my car. In fact if the only reason you are going to a Mavrick MC is the residual valve going to discs in the front that likely can be fixed so you can go back to the original MC with the right fittings. I just posted this in another thread so some may have seen this process recently:

First, take the right drill bit and poke around inside the flange fitting on the MC to the circuit you want to remove the RV. If its the same as the one I have, you will feel a rubber RV behind the seat in the flange fitting. You can thread the inside of this seat and put a screw in it and use a claw hammer to remove the seat. You can then remove the RV, clean everything as if your life depends on it and replace the seat. Wallah: drum-drum to disc-drum to disc-disc...

Second you will definitely need an adjustable proportioning valve to return the over sized and over-unsprung weighed disc brakes back to providing the exact same calculated braking that your light-weight drums did very well. :shrug::wink:

Good Luck,

M
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top