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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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floor question

The floors of my 68 coupe are solid, but there is some surface rust that needs cleaned up. From searching the forums the consensus seems to be wire wheel on an angle grinder, then some naval jelly to treat the rust. My question is how do you clean out the naval jelly after it sets? Then I plan on topping with some primer, maybe from Eastwood, something i can rattle can on since I don't have a paint sprayer.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 03:31 PM
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Clean it off of the dirt and loose scale, than treat is with rust encapsulater of some sort, it'll dry to a primer type finish that you can then topcoat with whatever you want- paint, undercoat, bedliner, etc... Eastwood makes a good one, as does Loctite and others I'm sure..

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 07:51 PM
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Twisted wire brush on a 4 " angle grinder, vacuum up the crap & some metal prep from the local home store, Ospho, Jasco etc...

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 09:08 PM
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For paint/rust removal I use a makita disc sander:

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1483062349.802474.jpg

And put a polycarbide disc on it:

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1483062375.872853.jpg

The 3m discs I like to buy in bulk if I can off Amazon. They're about $8.50 a piece. One disc will almost strip a fender if you stay away from sharp edges to give you an idea of how much life to expect. If I'm in a bind I can find them locally but they usually have an 1/8" arbor on them I have to cut off and remove for use in my makita.

I've tried every type of converter, encapsulator it seems and I always revert back to just removing the surface rust with a disc and putting epoxy over the bare steel. I've had Eastwood and other brands of rust encapsulators cure for 6 months and they will literally wipe off with lacquer thinner almost like a MR. Clean commercial.

For floors and interior I prefer to apply epoxy with a 3" foam roller. It eliminates the need for masking and spraying/equipment. The epoxy will destroy the foam roller fast so I buy those in bulk.

I did the bottom of my floors using a foam roller with Southern polyurethane epoxy in red oxide and plan to do the interior/trunk the same way only using black. I'll keep a couple foam brushes handy to dab it into crevices the roller won't reach:

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1483063479.404249.jpg

It's still wet in this pic. It will be a semigloss/flat when dry.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1483063607.162563.jpg

Good luck with your project!
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 10:55 PM
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Sure you don't mean Scotch Brite?


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 03:20 AM
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Can't you just clean up the loose stuff and coat with Por15? Then paint if you want.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 03:27 AM
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floor question

Quote:
Originally Posted by slim View Post
Sure you don't mean Scotch Brite?

Was this directed at my post?If so then no. I use polycarbide strip n clean discs. My apologies if it wasn't directed at me.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 12:03 PM
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So I take it you are not a fan of using the "rust encapsulation" products ? Do you just prime then apply epoxy ?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 06:00 AM
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floor question

Epoxy is dtm (direct to metal). I don't use anything underneath it. I've tried the encapsulators and moisture cure urethanes (por15, masterseries). I'm personally not a fan.

Epoxy is two part catylized paint cured by an activator (jb weld is an epoxy). The others use evaporating solvents or moisture from the air to cure. Many on this board swear by them so it's just my opinion but I don't care for them but it's not for lack of trying them. As my welding and panel replacement skills developed over the years I just never found a reason to relive painting over rust. I now remove it and epoxy over the bare steel.

Last edited by Riley; 12-31-2016 at 06:04 AM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 06:21 AM
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good old Ospho.. esp good on floors
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 12:04 PM
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I had first cleaned off my rust with a wire wheel, cleaned well with wax and grease remover, and then epoxied the floors (I sprayed them). However, once I had some rust breaking through epoxy in some other areas (including the floor in some spots) I went back over it with a red scotch brite to scuff and painted the floor with a moisture cured urethane (the Masterseries silver). I put it on a lot of stuff around my farm and it will simply not let moisture and air through to rust. I never paint over rust with anything however, I always remove it first. If I need a heavy *** duty finish for something really rust prone, I'll put the silver on first, then go over that with epoxy.

Almost all my parts started rusting again before my resto was already done so I started painting everything with silver first before I painted it black and that pretty much stopped that issue. On the body of cars I only use epoxy.


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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have to top the MS silver with anything or can you go right to insulation and carpet?
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldog View Post
Can't you just clean up the loose stuff and coat with Por15? Then paint if you want.

X-2
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Do you have to top the MS silver with anything or can you go right to insulation and carpet?

Just go straight to insulation or FatMat, etc.


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67 coupe with 5.0 and C4 (Viper GTS Blue, paint code PBE, since everybody asks)
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
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Can't you just clean up the loose stuff and coat with Por15? Then paint if you want.
No, search here for Master Series, a better product.
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