ATK crate engine - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mackinawmike View Post
I live in the north and have a '65 vert, 289 2V, 3 spd as my summer dd. For my spring project I placed an HP80C and T5z tranny on order. Since I knew I could only go to my SWMBO once I wanted no regrets. If it is too much power (I can't believe I just wrote that) I will train my right foot to behave. I ordered directly thru ATK and will be sure to post my experiences with them, and my engine/tranny swap.

HP80C Engine Specifications:
• HP: 410
• TQ: 420
• Block: Seasoned OE Roller Block 1987-1995
• Bore/Stroke: 4.040 x 3.400
• Displacement: 347CI
• Crankshaft: Scat nodular iron external balance 28oz
• Rods: Scat 4340 forged I beam with ARP 8740 bolts
• Pistons: Forged 10:1 compression
• Rings: Moly
• Camshaft: Hyd. Roller
• Cam Specs: 220/224 @50 .512in/.512ex 112LSA
• Timing Chain: Double roller
• Cylinder Heads: Dart pro 1 aluminum 58cc/170cc 2.02/1.60
• Rocker Arms: Aluminum 1.6 roller rockers
• Oil Pan: Front sump
• Oil Pump: Melling high volume
• Balancer: External balance 28oz (with Scat kit)
• Flexplate/Flywheel: External balance 28oz 164 tooth (with Scat kit)
• Intake Manifold: Weiand Dual Plane #8020
• Distributor: MSD Pro Billet RTR #8352 (Iron gear) or Factory
• Water Pump: OE standard rotation RH inlet
• Carburetor: Edelbrock thunder series 650CFM #1806
• Fuel Pump: Holley Mechanical 110GPH #12-289-11
• Spark Plugs: Autolite #3923
• Spark Plug Wires: MSD 8mm #5541

Engine Info:
• Oil: Conventional / Non Synthetic 10W30
• Oil Filter: Wix or K&N
• Timing: 34-36 Degrees
• Spark Plug Gap: .035”
• Firing Order: 13726548
• Octane: 91+
• Stall Converter: 2400-2800
• Exhaust: 1 5/8
We´ll wait for news from you, about how goes the swap and about the engine! Hope it goes smooth
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by stang66uy View Post
Thanks for sharing Sad to read the bad experience you had...
But I think it might be not the case, talking about a complete engine setup? I know that anyting wrong could happend, but maby the odds are less in the case of a complete engine?
What do you think?


I really don't think their poor customer service and lack of attention to detail is limited to just cylinder heads. There's a lot more attention required in engine assembly, and a lot more to go wrong.
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stang66uy View Post
Great! What transmission did you install?
I have a toploader.

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 11:48 AM
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Garage
Local garage which services all years, makes and models recommended to me to only purchase ATK. Has installed many replacement engines from them with very minimal returns.

God bless.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Hey all! I ended up getting a 5.0 explorer engine with GT40P Heads, i will convert it to carb and adding a T5, so thats the new plan.
Thanks all for your feedback on the matter!
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by stang66uy View Post
Hey all! I ended up getting a 5.0 explorer engine with GT40P Heads, i will convert it to carb and adding a T5, so thats the new plan.
Thanks all for your feedback on the matter!
Be sure to order the right headers, changing the plugs with headers that fit but are not correct requires removing the headers. I know, I was in that situation when I purchased my car.

1968 Mustang Coupe
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:43 PM
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I'm a big advocate of having your local machinist build you something. You're supporting a local business AND you've got customer service just a few miles away in case anything goes wrong.

1969 Mustang Convertible field find (It's a 450hp spaghetti noodle)
www.SaveClassicCars.net

"The problem is not the problem, the problem is your attitude about the problem"

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Iceotron View Post
Be sure to order the right headers, changing the plugs with headers that fit but are not correct requires removing the headers. I know, I was in that situation when I purchased my car.

Thanks for the tip! Actually I´m in the process of studying and looking for info related to the swap, but overall seems to be a easy swap...
I´m already ordered new oil pan, sump, gasket and oil dipstick for a start... Then well see what intake/dist/carb to get.. I Will open a thread as soon as I start with the build
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by happystang View Post
I'm a big advocate of having your local machinist build you something. You're supporting a local business AND you've got customer service just a few miles away in case anything goes wrong.
Hi Yes, I do also support local business... Mainly here was a money thing.. as I started with a total piece of crap engine, and the cost of a crate engine VS rebuilding and getting the missing parts for the engine I had, was practically the same...
Thanks for your reply!
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by stang66uy View Post
Yeah, I also noticed about the bore... The thing is that is on my price range at the moment... I didnt notice any other downside besides this. Im between this or a ´95 explorer 5.0, converted to carb.
Thanks for your reply!
I'm glad you didn't go with a ATK engine with the .060 bore. Although you are in the North, perhaps cooling wouldn't have been an issue, but in a 65-66 mustang with a standard cooling system driving anywhere that gets hot may create an overheating issue with that bore. I found out the hard way.


1965 Ford Mustang, A-code Coupe
WimbledonWhite, Red interior
Automatic with 302 engine
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