ATK crate engine - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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ATK crate engine

Hi all! Anyone to share your experience with one of these engine on a 65/66 mustang?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hpe...rview/make/atk

I'm planning to put one of these, with a T5 and 8" rear end. What are your thoughts? I'm looking for a driver/cruiser, not a drag car.
Thanks in advice!
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 11:42 PM
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I have no experience with this engine but the price is very reasonable. Only thing that stands out is the bore. Others on here are way more experience than I so they might give you more insight.

1969 Mustang Convertible
302, C4, P/S, P/B, A/C, FiTech EFI
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 01:02 AM
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I've heard decent things with ATK brand engines. A google search would likely help. It really depends on what you want to do with the car, I personally would want something with much more than stock power. I had a stockish 302 in my 65 fastback before my current engine and a Volvo station wagon kept up with me. At that minute I realized I needed just a bit more power. I think something in the low 300hp range would be very acceptable. I'd maybe spend a little bit more to get more HP as the last thing you want is to spend a good chunk of change on a motor and not have it be fast enough for you and then have to do it over again or not be happy with the money you spent. Here's a link to a similarly built motor but with 270hp and over 300ft/tq.

http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...ron-heads.html

Last edited by MUSTANG65FBK; 01-16-2017 at 01:11 AM.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 08:37 AM
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Yeah if you are going the route of a crate engine, then i would spend a little bit more and only do it once. Once you get in the $3500 range you are looking at some good power for what you are looking for. $4k to $4500 and now you are in the stroker range. Personally i would have an engine builder build one before i buy crate, around the same price but you can have it built better.

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 08:43 AM
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PLEASE NO! Do not buy anything from ATK/Spartan/Surefire engines


While I have no experience with ATK crate engines, I did put one of their cylinder heads in my F150 after it dropped a valve. What a horrible experience!


To make a very very long story short, the first complete cylinder head I received had the wrong cam shaft. It was about 1/2" too long, which was just small enough to not notice when buttoning everything up. Ended up destroying a 400 dollar cam phaser, and luckily nothing else.


ATK had ZERO understanding of how this happened, zero traceability from their build, and were not willing to help at all. Luckily I bought through Autozone, so they took the return.


Second head had a bunch of exhaust manifold studs broken off in the head.


Third try, they finally got it right. 1 month without my daily driver, one destroyed cam phaser, and the delight of doing the entire job twice.


ATK was entirely unwilling to help, offer any assistance, explain why they were having issues, or even pick up the phone half the time.


DO NOT BUY ANYTHING MADE BY ATK!
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qbui View Post
I have no experience with this engine but the price is very reasonable. Only thing that stands out is the bore. Others on here are way more experience than I so they might give you more insight.
Yeah, I also noticed about the bore... The thing is that is on my price range at the moment... I didnt notice any other downside besides this. Im between this or a ī95 explorer 5.0, converted to carb.
Thanks for your reply!
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUSTANG65FBK View Post
I've heard decent things with ATK brand engines. A google search would likely help. It really depends on what you want to do with the car, I personally would want something with much more than stock power. I had a stockish 302 in my 65 fastback before my current engine and a Volvo station wagon kept up with me. At that minute I realized I needed just a bit more power. I think something in the low 300hp range would be very acceptable. I'd maybe spend a little bit more to get more HP as the last thing you want is to spend a good chunk of change on a motor and not have it be fast enough for you and then have to do it over again or not be happy with the money you spent. Here's a link to a similarly built motor but with 270hp and over 300ft/tq.

302 Ford 270 HP 335 Torque Street | Ford Crate, Performance Crate Engines| Tri Star Engines & Transmission
Hi! thanks for sharing your experience! Thanks also for the link, I didnt knew about tristar engines...
As I mention earlier, I dint plan on racing or such, just have decent power when I hit the gas, but for street use. Also want a confortable/reliable car, to go to work If I want, etc. The problem is Im not in the US right now.. so my budget is also limited, because I have shipping costs/taxes, etc.. By the other side, I have the oportunity of buying a 1995 5.0 explorer engine, to convert co carb... Well se..
But thanks for the feedback!
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telecomboss View Post
Yeah if you are going the route of a crate engine, then i would spend a little bit more and only do it once. Once you get in the $3500 range you are looking at some good power for what you are looking for. $4k to $4500 and now you are in the stroker range. Personally i would have an engine builder build one before i buy crate, around the same price but you can have it built better.
Hi! That sounds like a lot of fun! As I mention, my budget is limited, I think the best is make some upgrades, talking about suspension/brakes. Also, Im planning to use a 8" with 3.55 gears (the car was a factory 6 cyl car, so Iīm swapping the rear end). I already have all new front suspension and steering components, only improvement is polyurethane bushings...
As Iīm not in the US right now, the engine builder is not an option....
Thanks for your reply
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 02:43 PM
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I put in an ATK 347 during the summer. I've been very happy with it so far, quality seems just fine.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 03:27 PM
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The other option is to use either a used GT40 or GT40P Explorer motor. Even with close to 200K miles they'll be in decent shape. I found one with 40K miles for $450. I swapped the cam for a $60 used Mustang 5.0 cam, used Crane 1.72 roller rockers, $115, used Wieand Stealth, $80, used 600 CFM Edelbrock $100. I did buy a new billet flywheel, $230, new balancer, ~$100. I'd say it's making about 260 hp. It runs real well and didn't break the bank. Here's my build Got my GT40P up and running in my 66

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 03:31 PM
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I live in the north and have a '65 vert, 289 2V, 3 spd as my summer dd. For my spring project I placed an HP80C and T5z tranny on order. Since I knew I could only go to my SWMBO once I wanted no regrets. If it is too much power (I can't believe I just wrote that) I will train my right foot to behave. I ordered directly thru ATK and will be sure to post my experiences with them, and my engine/tranny swap.

HP80C Engine Specifications:
• HP: 410
• TQ: 420
• Block: Seasoned OE Roller Block 1987-1995
• Bore/Stroke: 4.040 x 3.400
• Displacement: 347CI
• Crankshaft: Scat nodular iron external balance 28oz
• Rods: Scat 4340 forged I beam with ARP 8740 bolts
• Pistons: Forged 10:1 compression
• Rings: Moly
• Camshaft: Hyd. Roller
• Cam Specs: 220/224 @50 .512in/.512ex 112LSA
• Timing Chain: Double roller
• Cylinder Heads: Dart pro 1 aluminum 58cc/170cc 2.02/1.60
• Rocker Arms: Aluminum 1.6 roller rockers
• Oil Pan: Front sump
• Oil Pump: Melling high volume
• Balancer: External balance 28oz (with Scat kit)
• Flexplate/Flywheel: External balance 28oz 164 tooth (with Scat kit)
• Intake Manifold: Weiand Dual Plane #8020
• Distributor: MSD Pro Billet RTR #8352 (Iron gear) or Factory
• Water Pump: OE standard rotation RH inlet
• Carburetor: Edelbrock thunder series 650CFM #1806
• Fuel Pump: Holley Mechanical 110GPH #12-289-11
• Spark Plugs: Autolite #3923
• Spark Plug Wires: MSD 8mm #5541

Engine Info:
• Oil: Conventional / Non Synthetic 10W30
• Oil Filter: Wix or K&N
• Timing: 34-36 Degrees
• Spark Plug Gap: .035”
• Firing Order: 13726548
• Octane: 91+
• Stall Converter: 2400-2800
• Exhaust: 1 5/8
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyeguy1212 View Post
PLEASE NO! Do not buy anything from ATK/Spartan/Surefire engines


While I have no experience with ATK crate engines, I did put one of their cylinder heads in my F150 after it dropped a valve. What a horrible experience!


To make a very very long story short, the first complete cylinder head I received had the wrong cam shaft. It was about 1/2" too long, which was just small enough to not notice when buttoning everything up. Ended up destroying a 400 dollar cam phaser, and luckily nothing else.


ATK had ZERO understanding of how this happened, zero traceability from their build, and were not willing to help at all. Luckily I bought through Autozone, so they took the return.


Second head had a bunch of exhaust manifold studs broken off in the head.


Third try, they finally got it right. 1 month without my daily driver, one destroyed cam phaser, and the delight of doing the entire job twice.


ATK was entirely unwilling to help, offer any assistance, explain why they were having issues, or even pick up the phone half the time.


DO NOT BUY ANYTHING MADE BY ATK!
Thanks for sharing Sad to read the bad experience you had...
But I think it might be not the case, talking about a complete engine setup? I know that anyting wrong could happend, but maby the odds are less in the case of a complete engine?
What do you think?
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Huskinhano View Post
The other option is to use either a used GT40 or GT40P Explorer motor. Even with close to 200K miles they'll be in decent shape. I found one with 40K miles for $450. I swapped the cam for a $60 used Mustang 5.0 cam, used Crane 1.72 roller rockers, $115, used Wieand Stealth, $80, used 600 CFM Edelbrock $100. I did buy a new billet flywheel, $230, new balancer, ~$100. I'd say it's making about 260 hp. It runs real well and didn't break the bank. Here's my build Got my GT40P up and running in my 66
Hi!
Its ok for you if l send you a PM, maby I can pick up a 5.0 from a 95 Explorer, to convert to carb setup, and want to ask you some questions about the swap.. I checked your post, great work man Hats off
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ajzride View Post
I put in an ATK 347 during the summer. I've been very happy with it so far, quality seems just fine.
Great! What transmission did you install?
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stang66uy View Post
Hi!
Its ok for you if l send you a PM, maby I can pick up a 5.0 from a 95 Explorer, to convert to carb setup, and want to ask you some questions about the swap.. I checked your post, great work man Hats off
Absolutely you can PM me!

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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