efi parts gathering - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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efi parts gathering

So i decided to move forward with the EFI swap and going to go with the Sniper unit. I ordered the Spectra EFI tank which arrived last night. My game plan is to use the stock fuel line as either the return line or the sending line.

Question 1: what line does everyone recommend running from tank to the front of the car?
q2: how are you getting power to your pump? i installed the painless cirkit boss kit and plan on using that to power the tank and efi unit. im thinking about running the pump wires up into the trunk for the connection.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:26 PM
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I used the Spectra tank with my FiTech install, this is what I did:

Original 5/16 fuel line used as return line
New 3/8 original style hard line used as the feed
Fuel Injection rated rubber hose with proper connectors connecting hard lines to sending unit
Terminated both hard lines right at the tow board
Then ran braided lines from the end of the hard lines to the FiTech

My fuel pump is powered through the FiTech.



ET: 12.7@109 mph
ENGINE: FiTech EFI, DSS 347, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, XE274HR cam, MSD ign, Hooker Headers, Magnaflow exhaust
DRIVELINE: Tremec 3550, Pro 5.0, Fidanza AL Flywheel, McCleod clutch, 3.55's, 13" GT Front & Cobra Rear brakes
SUSPENSION: 17" TTII's, 235/45 tires, 620 coils, Shelby drop, 1" & 3/4" sway bars, Monte Carlo bar, S&T strut rods, Bilsteins, & roller perches
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 04:43 PM
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The Sniper harness has a 14 gauge blue wire powered by the 30 amp relay. That's the wire you should power the fuel pump with. I'm going to run the wire under the drivers side sill plate and over wheel well to follow the fuel gauge wire.

Sniper needs 3/8 or AN -6 for a supply. The sock on the fuel pump has the 100 micron filter and you must install a 10 micron filter anywhere in the pressure line. The return can be 5/16 and that's the size of the return fitting at the tank.

Holley has a new filter / regulator. It puts the 60 psi regulator just after the filter so you can run without a return from the Sniper. The return on the Sniper is plugged and the system has the pressure it needs. HOLLEY EFI FILTER REGULATOR 3/8" NPT
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolblue65 View Post
I used the Spectra tank with my FiTech install, this is what I did:

Original 5/16 fuel line used as return line
New 3/8 original style hard line used as the feed
Fuel Injection rated rubber hose with proper connectors connecting hard lines to sending unit
Terminated both hard lines right at the tow board
Then ran braided lines from the end of the hard lines to the FiTech

My fuel pump is powered through the FiTech.
So did you bend your own metal lines or buy an aftermarket one that follows the original path? have any pictures?

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Originally Posted by cougar70 View Post
The Sniper harness has a 14 gauge blue wire powered by the 30 amp relay. That's the wire you should power the fuel pump with. I'm going to run the wire under the drivers side sill plate and over wheel well to follow the fuel gauge wire.

Sniper needs 3/8 or AN -6 for a supply. The sock on the fuel pump has the 100 micron filter and you must install a 10 micron filter anywhere in the pressure line. The return can be 5/16 and that's the size of the return fitting at the tank.

Holley has a new filter / regulator. It puts the 60 psi regulator just after the filter so you can run without a return from the Sniper. The return on the Sniper is plugged and the system has the pressure it needs. HOLLEY EFI FILTER REGULATOR 3/8" NPT
good to know. i saw the new filer with the bypass. while it's nice, if im using the stock line as the return, then im only about $50 into a new feed line. quite a bit cheaper than the new filter/regulator.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:25 AM
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I am running -6AN PTFE steel braided lines with filter from the tank all the way to the fuel rail and return. Looks great and no leaks. A lot easier than bending steel lines.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:24 AM
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don't forget an inertia switch

Original Owner 69 Mach1
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Terrier View Post
I am running -6AN PTFE steel braided lines with filter from the tank all the way to the fuel rail and return. Looks great and no leaks. A lot easier than bending steel lines.

Do you have any pics showing how you routed the fuel lines?
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdub4u View Post
So did you bend your own metal lines or buy an aftermarket one that follows the original path? have any pictures?.
I didn't bend any lines, I just bought a stock 3/8 steel line and ran it right along side the 5/16 line that was already installed. Simple to do. I have some random pictures I can find.
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ET: 12.7@109 mph
ENGINE: FiTech EFI, DSS 347, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, XE274HR cam, MSD ign, Hooker Headers, Magnaflow exhaust
DRIVELINE: Tremec 3550, Pro 5.0, Fidanza AL Flywheel, McCleod clutch, 3.55's, 13" GT Front & Cobra Rear brakes
SUSPENSION: 17" TTII's, 235/45 tires, 620 coils, Shelby drop, 1" & 3/4" sway bars, Monte Carlo bar, S&T strut rods, Bilsteins, & roller perches
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:28 AM
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I ran PTFE all the way for both lines. While hard line is easier to make conform to the surface of the floor pan and has a smaller bend radius (helpful mostly just in the axle area), I really hate trying to flare lines for -AN fittings, which is what I would need to transition from the hard line to the soft line routing up into the engine bay. So I opted to just go full length soft lines.

Mine run all the way up the inside of the passenger side frame rail. I have subframe connectors that are welded full-length along the floor so they provide a nice sheltered ledge for the fuel lines to sit next to. I have the external fuel filter parked on the front frame rail right at the toeboard, because there's a nice big out-of-the-way space for it there.

My Powerjection has the option to run my pump, but I thought the wire looked a little skinny so I opted to just wire it straight to 12V with a heavier gauge wire. I either used 14 or 12, but don't quite remember. Regardless, I snaked mine down through the rockers where the stock wiring goes (using a piece of clothes hanger to pull the wire through the holes works great) and ran it with the taillight wiring as far as the gas filler neck, then ran it to the pump from there.


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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplin View Post
Do you have any pics showing how you routed the fuel lines?
Yes I just can't figure out how to post pics..LOL
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:24 AM
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I am running a relay and inertia switch to my fuel pump. Lets see if these pics load.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:31 AM
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Fuel filter running along subframe connector.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Mach1 Driver View Post
don't forget an inertia switch
I asked Holley tech support about an inertia switch. I was told not to use one. They said to wire the system as shown in the instructions. If the engine stops for any reason Sniper will turn off the fuel pump. I'm going to have a simple and reliable system so I'll forget the inertia switch.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bdub4u View Post
So i decided to move forward with the EFI swap and going to go with the Sniper unit. I ordered the Spectra EFI tank which arrived last night. My game plan is to use the stock fuel line as either the return line or the sending line.

Question 1: what line does everyone recommend running from tank to the front of the car?
q2: how are you getting power to your pump? i installed the painless cirkit boss kit and plan on using that to power the tank and efi unit. im thinking about running the pump wires up into the trunk for the connection.
I used the EFI tank, pump, and sender kit from CJPP. From that kit I ran 3/8 steel braided PTFE line through the trunk floor, and then followed the routing of the original line back into the engine compartment. I used bulkhead fittings wherever the line ran through anything, and did my best to avoid extreme turns. Anywhere I had to make a tight turn I used a 90* elbow, or something of the sort. I ran a new return line as well, since it really wasn't much more work since I was already under there cutting the line and putting fittings on. It looks nicer that way and everything matches, too.

Additionally, power to the pump is provided through the blue wire from the Sniper harness. It's very long and will easily reach the trunk. It has a built in relay and primes the lines and everything for you automatically. It's SUPER easy.

You're going to love the sniper, it really woke my car up.

I included some pictures, but keep in mind they're all from the middle of the job so stuff wasn't completed yet. Hopefully they help. It's finished now, and it is AMAZING by comparison. I was running pretty rich, and the sniper keeps things dialed in now.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg EFI Trunk.jpg (92.7 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg EFI engine compartment.jpg (69.5 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg EFI wheel well.jpg (66.8 KB, 42 views)

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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:04 PM
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Classic Tube will make a set of factory lines with EFI push lock ends. That's what will eventually be used when I get around to the conversion. Russell and a couple other companies make push lock to AN and AN to push lock, that way the only clamps I'll have will be at the outlet/return of the Spectra tank. Will use pre made push lock hoses or AN hose with crimped on hose ends for the short sections of flexible stuff needed. Since I was buying lines anyway......
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