Need help/advice with motor cost - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

 7Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:40 PM
Senior Member
 
Kelly_H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Austin, TX!
Posts: 5,172
Yeah, 9k is wayyyyyy too much! But dang, I should go work at that shop!

I rebuilt my motor for just about 2k. And almost 1k of that was just them fixing my heads, which were totally trashed.

For your reference, it is entirely possible to remove, disassemble, reassemble, and reinstall an engine in less than 24 hours. I did it with a friend in 18 once and that included finding, modifying, and painting a new bellhousing, finding and redrilling a flywheel, machining a new pilot bushing, machining a new bearing retainer for the transmission, chopping and modifying a clutch linkage, modifying a clutch fork, digging up a new block plate, and some other stuff in there... in other words a significant amount of "jury-rigging"-type hot rodding. If you don't include machine work, an engine removal, disassembly, reassembly, and install can be done in something like 12 hours, conservatively. So that's $1200 labor... a complete rebuild and reinstall of a pretty basic (not high performance) motor shouldn't cost more than 4 grand IMO.


Calamity Jane 1966 Modified Fastback - Driven semi-daily!
Wrecked and rebuilt even better
289 v8, 4-speed, 3.25 9" rear, goodies and stuff.

See my travel blog here for my adventures: http://calamityjaneroadtrip.blogspot.com/
2014: 10,051 mile, 2-month-long road trip around America
2015: 3,000 mile trip to Knotts in CA, CO to East Coast, an engine rebuild or two
2016: East Coast to TX, Hot August Nights, more trips to the East Coast
2017: Several long trips in the works! Stay tuned
Kelly_H is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:15 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 403
Yes, the 302 is drivable with the wrong balancer on it. Let me rephrase that, it is drivable if you ignore the vibration. And it can be an easy mistake with the classics. Someone pulls a 5.0 from the junk yard and when the front pullys do not line up, puts the 289 balancer on it with the front assessories. Of course, it will screw up everything inside the engine. Bearings, rear main seal, yaddie, yaddie, yaddie

If you have any mechanical inclination, you can buy a 2-ton harbor freight lift and pull the motor yourself. I recommend the 2-ton because it extends out further where as the 1-ton is not quite long enough. Watch their adds and you can buy it for under $200. And if you wanted, you can sell it on CL afterwards.

2 ton Capacity Foldable Shop Crane

I wonder if the statement was, your engine is what is throwing everything off, as in, the engine is the cause of the vibration, not, your engine threw everything off of it.

.

'67 Coupe, 306 w/ EFI
AOD w/ B&M short Megashifter
EPAS w/ Bruno Box
Shelby Drop, 17" Replica's
bacchus203 is offline  
post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 26
bacchus203- That is a correct statement. They said that the engine is the cause of the vibration. I should have phrased it that way instead.
Mustangdreamer is offline  
post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 08:01 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Central Tx
Posts: 86
Just rent a engine hoist and do it yourself. Its what me and my son did. I pulled it out one Saturday, had it rebuilt and installed it a different weekend. This is before all the crate engines that are available now a days, when you used to have to take it to your local machine shop. I found the following people:

https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equip...engine-hoist/#

$40 bucks a day. Man for 9k I could get a 347ci stroker with some nice AFR 205 heads and probably enough to put a Paxton supercharger on it.
Israel and 66whitepony like this.
my289 is offline  
post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: St Louis
Posts: 155
Garage
Holy smokes 9k?! I'm going to have about 7k (excluding fuel system) in my 408 that started with a reman'd block...that's installed and on the ground.

Go get a hoist, pull it, read up on rebuilding a windsor and get to it. Like most have said, doing a 'refresh' on the engine, a first timer taking their time could do it in a few days (excluding waiting on the machine shop) for around 2k. That's from pulling to back on the road.

Although...you should really press that shop on why they think its a total rebuild...and want you to pay a learning tax. Could be something as simple / dumb as a bad motor mount.
chaser012001 is offline  
post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:40 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,909
Just as point of reference I cracked the block on my 347. New dart block, forged crank, cam, gaskets, machined and balanced 4000 all in by local engine machinist/builder. I pulled engine myself though. I'm doing a 67 vert now. Doing a crate next time. Unless you are looking at a getting big power I would just get a crate from jegs or summit. Mild 331. If you go to much hp you will need upgrade tranny, rear end.
palerider is offline  
post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:26 PM
Member
 
jbman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 37
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangdreamer View Post
Hey there- So I will try to lay this story out the best I can and get feedback from you guys, which seem to know everything about everything when it comes to Mustangs.

I purchased my 67 fastback a few months ago and realized that it was very shaky when driving and that it had a pulsing sound. I did all the usual things like have the driveshaft balanced, replace the ujoints, etc but it was still there. It has also had problems with the oil pressure dropping to zero, overheating, etc. So this week I took it to a very reputable shop here in town and they are telling me that my 302 is shot and that is the cause of my issues. They are saying that it is a later model engine and that it has thrown everything off... Now the issue is not that I do not believe them, because I do, as they have been highly recommended by several people. The issue I am having is with the replacement cost.

They are saying it is going to be between 8-9K to tear down my engine, reuse the block, get it installed with a new water pump, fuel pump, etc and get it running correctly. Does that sound right as far as pricing is concerned? I am asking because I genuinely do not know. I know that I can go online and find a turn key engine for 5-6K but obviously that does not include install, so I am just at a loss for what to do...

Could really use some help on this one... I don't exactly have 9 grand laying around, but I really want my car to work correctly as well...
I still have my receipt from my recent rebuild... had a mechanic friend pull the motor and install it again, and a shop rebuild it. Total cost was less than 5k (which included a lot of random other stuff, too). The total cost for the rebuild itself, which included fixing up some serious issues with the heads, was only 2958.66. This was from a very reputable shop, and I had to wait a month or two the shop was so backed up. This all includes a valve job, milling the heads, balancing the crank etc, boring the block, grinding the crank, decking the block, the whole rebuild kit including pistons and rings and such, a cam, etc., etc., etc. It was very complete and I couldn't be happier.

That all being said, 9k sounds absolutely insane. You could get a killer crate motor AND have someone install it for that price.

jbman is offline  
post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:42 PM
Senior Member
 
BlakeTX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 474
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by panabax View Post
Other options are City Motors in Dallas...
Avoid this place like the plague. There's a reason they're known as "Sh*tty Motors". I know this from personal experience. I ignored their reputation because it was cheap and ended up buying 2 engines. (this was for a Ranger V6, but still)

I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.
BlakeTX is offline  
post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 01:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakeTX View Post
Avoid this place like the plague. There's a reason they're known as "Sh*tty Motors". I know this from personal experience. I ignored their reputation because it was cheap and ended up buying 2 engines. (this was for a Ranger V6, but still)
Good to know. I've never used except to resize some piston rods which they did a credible job on. If I do another motor, I would take it to Wells in Duncanville.

Baxter

1965 A Code GT Fastback
Rangoon Red/Black

panabax is offline  
post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 01:52 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Sacramento area
Posts: 58
$9k? Whoa that is very bad.

I did a high end 5.3L LS engine build at about $5k. This is forged pistons, forged rods, head studs, balanced/blue printed, etc.

The same shop is quoting me about $2300 to rebuild my 1968 289 with new cam and unleaded valve seats.

In both cases, this is me dropping off a long block plus intake and picking up a ready to bolt in engine.

FWIW, this is outside of the Sacramento, CA area.

Project on deck: 68' Mustang fastback aka Karma Kruiser : resto-mod
Project wrapping up : 71' Land Cruiser FJ55 with 6.0L LSx aka expedition rig
Project on hold : 72' Land Cruiser FJ55 with turbo 5.3L LSx aka insane rig
Lil'John is offline  
post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 03:06 PM
Senior Member
 
Blood-J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lewisville, TX
Posts: 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by panabax View Post
Wayne Calvert in Denton.

I'd also give a nod to Calvert. They haven't built anything for me personally, but I've have friends who had great luck with them. I plan to use them when the time comes.
Blood-J is offline  
post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 05:34 PM
TJH
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Glendale, California
Posts: 1,107
Find a real shop & have them check out your current setup - you may just have the wrong balancer on it. If it turns out your current setup is bad (i.e. really shot) you have a lot of choices. You need to decide what you want from your new motor and build one accordingly. $ 9k+ is too much. Good luck.

Tom<br>
TJH is offline  
post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:48 PM
Senior Member
 
Israel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 5,522
I'd love to see you do this yourself, you'll learn a lot.

Pulling the motor, breaking it down having a shop rebuild it with mild performance adders, then you reassemble and install it will do wonders for your confidence.

There's NOTHING to these old cars,....you can do this.

Short of the hoist, common toolbox tools will get you there.
subpar63 likes this.

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html

Last edited by Israel; 02-17-2017 at 07:43 PM.
Israel is offline  
post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 01:27 AM
Senior Member
 
ToneMT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: MT, USA
Posts: 1,369
Rebuilt/modified a 5.0 roller, rebuilt a T5, bought a rebuilt 3.55 Trac Lok, ...everything for 5k ...installed all in 2 days... 9k is stupid high.

If you have an interest in DYI project, you'll save a bunch and learn a ton.

1968 Mustang Convertible: Rest/Mod Start Feb 2012 - Ended Sept 2012 with first car show
1963 MGB Restored and supercharged
1991 300zx - a work in progress
277 Photos of this restoration (photobucket)
/ 2013 Walk around video
ToneMT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome