fixing bad holes - Vintage Mustang Forums

 7Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: abilene tx
Posts: 131
fixing bad holes

how would you fix a bad drilled hole. i made a mistake using a bad bit while drilling the shelby drop on my shock towers, so the holes are not round.
snakekiller is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:46 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 46
Weld it back up. Grind it down. Start over
rpm likes this.
nrmustang is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:41 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The Hill Country of Central Texas
Posts: 4,013
Does the bolt fit through the hole? If it fits through the hole how much "slop" is there between the bolt and the edge of the hole?
If the hole is too small for the bolt use a rat tail file to make the hole round.
Drill bits are notorious for making holes in sheet metal that are not perfectly round. It even happens in thicker metal and that's why machinists use reamers instead of drill bits.
awhtx is offline  
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:46 AM
Senior Member
 
22GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 31,071
If it's in the right place but slightly over size, ignore it. How much error are you talking about?
Rorin67 likes this.
22GT is online now  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:41 AM
Senior Member
 
gt350sr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 3,079
Garage
^^^ agreed with above. Another option if you didn't want to weld and redrill through hardened weld; weld a washer on the engine side of the tower that's the same hole size as your bolt. It'll center the bolt and won't have any effect on alignment since it's on the back side. This is of course assuming that your current hole is well off the mark, and not just off by a smidge....

Buckle up- I wanna try something!!
gt350sr is online now  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:39 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 189
A pic would be worth a thousand words.
Huskinhano and gt350sr like this.
Claudemiro is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:22 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 738
I had the same problem when I did the arning drop. I used a brand new bit however by the fourth hole it drifted about an eighth of an inch. I debated welding it up and redrilling but you can't access the engine side. Even if there is no engine the shock tower has folds that interfere with cleaning that side up so that the nut has a flat surface to sit against. Luckily for me my bit drifted to the inside so when I put my upper arm in I found that it was actually tight.

david

69 Winter Blue 302 Fastback w/ Original Paint

Moodster is offline  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:49 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 15,963
I agree with the others. I don't think I would worry too much but I like what Claudemiro said about posting a picture. These weren't precision made car anyway. A lot of people forget as you add caster the cross section of the control arm becomes oval as it goes through the body hole.

I learned a tip from a Hungarian machinist I used to work with. When he had to drill a hole through sheetmetal he would use a small piece of cloth over the spot to be drilled. I asked him why he did it. He said it helps keep the hole round. I've done it and it does help.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
Huskinhano is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:57 AM
Senior Member
 
Lizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 2,130
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrmustang View Post
Weld it back up. Grind it down. Start over

Have you ever tried to drill through hardened weld, let alone 1/2" of it?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


67 coupe with 5.0 and C4 (Viper GTS Blue, paint code PBE, since everybody asks)
69 Mach 1 428 SCJ drag pack
Lizer is online now  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 04:36 PM
rpm
Senior Member
 
rpm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
Have you ever tried to drill through hardened weld, let alone 1/2" of it?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Yep, take your time. I've also found that drilling thru a hardened weld is easier the drilling thru molten weld

Bob


There are 2 types of people, those who own pickups and those who borrow them.

69 M code Mach 1, 393w AFR 185, C5 trans, 3.50 traction lok N case, 13" 01Cobra 4 wheel disc, QA1 4 wheel coil covers, Chromo tube susp arms, Triangulated rear arms, Convertible inner rockers & seat riser, 6 point roll bar.


Build Pics http://s782.photobucket.com/user/rob...?sort=3&page=2

Build Thread
http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php...bitch-is-back/
rpm is offline  
post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 189
If you find you can't drill through a welded area, then anneal it some. Usually I am able to drill through, better bits do a better job.
Claudemiro is offline  
post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:26 PM
Senior Member
 
22GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 31,071
This job goes best if you drill a 1/8" pilot hole first. Then the 1/2" drill follows the 1/8" hole.
Lizer and cougar70 like this.

Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
22GT is online now  
post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:44 PM
Senior Member
 
MikeG69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 408
Garage
When I did the UCA drop I started with a drill bit the size of the hole in the drilling template I think is 1/8", then used 2 or 3 progressively larger bits & then the final size & it worked out fine for me.

2000 Ranger 4X4 (my DD)
1999 Explorer Sport (wife's DD)
2008 Escape (spare)
1969 Mustang Coupe (project)
Build thread; http://www.newyorkmustangs.com/forum...cs-t15096.html
AKA; mike65
MikeG69 is offline  
post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 12:53 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 189
I would say, start with a 1/8", then go 1/4", then 3/8" and finally the correct finished size.
Claudemiro is offline  
post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: abilene tx
Posts: 131
Sorry guys for the late reply to your questions, the wholes were drilled for GW control arms so 1/2 inch if i remember. The slop is minimal around 1/16" or less when the bolts are loose and no slop when tighten. I do have ascess to the engine side(no engine) how do you know where to position a washer? I cant take pictures currently as im on a business trip.
snakekiller is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome