fixing bad holes - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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fixing bad holes

how would you fix a bad drilled hole. i made a mistake using a bad bit while drilling the shelby drop on my shock towers, so the holes are not round.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:46 AM
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Weld it back up. Grind it down. Start over
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:41 AM
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Does the bolt fit through the hole? If it fits through the hole how much "slop" is there between the bolt and the edge of the hole?
If the hole is too small for the bolt use a rat tail file to make the hole round.
Drill bits are notorious for making holes in sheet metal that are not perfectly round. It even happens in thicker metal and that's why machinists use reamers instead of drill bits.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:46 AM
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If it's in the right place but slightly over size, ignore it. How much error are you talking about?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:41 AM
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^^^ agreed with above. Another option if you didn't want to weld and redrill through hardened weld; weld a washer on the engine side of the tower that's the same hole size as your bolt. It'll center the bolt and won't have any effect on alignment since it's on the back side. This is of course assuming that your current hole is well off the mark, and not just off by a smidge....

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:22 AM
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I had the same problem when I did the arning drop. I used a brand new bit however by the fourth hole it drifted about an eighth of an inch. I debated welding it up and redrilling but you can't access the engine side. Even if there is no engine the shock tower has folds that interfere with cleaning that side up so that the nut has a flat surface to sit against. Luckily for me my bit drifted to the inside so when I put my upper arm in I found that it was actually tight.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:49 AM
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I agree with the others. I don't think I would worry too much but I like what Claudemiro said about posting a picture. These weren't precision made car anyway. A lot of people forget as you add caster the cross section of the control arm becomes oval as it goes through the body hole.

I learned a tip from a Hungarian machinist I used to work with. When he had to drill a hole through sheetmetal he would use a small piece of cloth over the spot to be drilled. I asked him why he did it. He said it helps keep the hole round. I've done it and it does help.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrmustang View Post
Weld it back up. Grind it down. Start over

Have you ever tried to drill through hardened weld, let alone 1/2" of it?


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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
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Have you ever tried to drill through hardened weld, let alone 1/2" of it?


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Yep, take your time. I've also found that drilling thru a hardened weld is easier the drilling thru molten weld

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:26 PM
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This job goes best if you drill a 1/8" pilot hole first. Then the 1/2" drill follows the 1/8" hole.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:44 PM
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When I did the UCA drop I started with a drill bit the size of the hole in the drilling template I think is 1/8", then used 2 or 3 progressively larger bits & then the final size & it worked out fine for me.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry guys for the late reply to your questions, the wholes were drilled for GW control arms so 1/2 inch if i remember. The slop is minimal around 1/16" or less when the bolts are loose and no slop when tighten. I do have ascess to the engine side(no engine) how do you know where to position a washer? I cant take pictures currently as im on a business trip.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 07:34 AM
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Ah, good news. Don't worry about 1/16".

As for a washer, if you use an OEM style nut, it has an integral washer and stands alone. Some aftermarket arms come with a plain nut and a split washer. I prefer the OE setup.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 03:27 AM
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Have you ever tried to drill through hardened weld, let alone 1/2" of it?


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As a matter of fact I have. We had this happen before, and this was how we fixed it. So...

Last edited by nrmustang; 03-11-2017 at 03:29 AM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 07:41 AM
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I used the "Titanium step drill bits" from HF. No need to change bits, you start with an 1/8" and move all the way up to 1/2. No issues and it was WAY faster than when I tried with my old bits and changing them progressively each time.

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