Powering the Sniper,
There are three wires that need to be connected to power on the Sniper,
Red and Black main power wires, these need to be run directly to the battery and have a solid connection.
Pink switched power wire, this needs to be connected to a point that is 12V in run and while cranking. It seems that what you can do here varies somewhat by year.
The best way that works for all years is to grab the wire out of the back of the ignition switch that goes to the coil. It is connected to a resistor wire with a
bullet plug. Tie into the ignition switch side of the bullet plug. DO NOT connect to the + terminal of the coil.
An alternate way is to use the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid to switch a relay. In this case, you come off the battery directly to the relay to power the Pink
switch power wire on the Sniper. There is an issue with this, with stock wiring ( resistor wire to coil ) you only get 5 - 6 volts on this terminal in the run
position and 12V while cranking. You would need to find a relay rated for 12V that is reliably energized with 5 volts. There is one reported case I know of that is
doing this and working fine. If you have rewired your car to run 12V to the coil ( non points ignition ), this method works fine.
Sniper fuel supply,
I installed a Tanks Inc EFI fuel tank with an internal pump. I set it up so that I use an external pressure regualtor ( I capped the Sniper regulator ) and return line
back at the fuel tank, so I do not have a return that runs from the Sniper to the tank. With the internal fuel pump, I do not have a pre filter but do have a 10 micron
filter berfore the Sniper. This system was originally installed for my PJIII and works well.
I have Hooker Comp headers and welded my O2 sensor bunge on the collector, did not use the strap on kit.