Autolite 1100 issues - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Autolite 1100 issues

Hi everyone. New to the forum. I recently picked up a 65 convertible with an inline 6 and an original Autolite 1100 carb on it. It runs pretty decent but I"m having an issue with the carb.

When I'm driving it around town for 15-20 minutes and it's pretty warmed up, it starts stalling out at red lights unless I keep my foot on the accelerator and massaging a little gas in to it. If not it will stall. If it does stall it does start right back up on first try but usually will stall again unless I'm pumping small amounts of gas waiting for the light to change. I'll then have to really pump the pedal when the light changes to keep driving. Once moving, there is no issue. Just when sitting and idling.

I don't believe the carb has been rebuilt recently or even if ever so that could be something that might be needed. If a rebuild is recommended how tough of a job would this be for a relative newcomer? Is there anything else someone might recommend? Would adjusting idle screws or such make a difference? Could something like a vacuum leak be a cause and how would I test for leaks?

I can do some mechanical things on the car but carbs and transmissions have always been like voodoo to me. If anyone has any good links to look at, I would really appreciate that too.

Thanks again!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 03:50 PM
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Well for one thing, I'd check easy stuff first. Look for vacuum leaks. If an autotrans check the hoses running up and down to the manifold; and the modulator down by the side of the trans. Check pvc hose and the grommet where it goes into the valve cover. Replacing the grommet helped me once. It should be a snug fit. Make sure the carb is secure on the manifold. Replace the fuel filter at the carb cause it's easy and cheap. If you have power brakes I'd check that hose too and the check valve on the booster.
Report back.

I'd make sure engine is tuned up, good spark plugs, wires and all. Good chance you may need to rebuild the carb. It's not hard. For the time being you could adjust the idle speed and mixture screws to see if that helps.

And you need a service manual. Preferably the factory one.

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Last edited by 66conv6; 03-17-2017 at 03:53 PM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:05 AM
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Since it runs for a while, then won't idle once it warms up it might be that it only works with the choke on.

If that's the case, once you've checked for leaks and stuff like 66conv6 said, you might try increasing the idle speed on the carb. The hot idle screw is the one sticking out on the passenger side, and the main idle adjustment is on the back of the carb, accessed with a really long screwdriver across the valve cover from the driver's side.

But check for leaks and loose mounting nuts first since those would still be a problem even if you bumped the idle up.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for not respond. I had to make an emergency trip out of town but I'm back and plan to spend any time I get this week working on this.

Thanks for the great responses and I'll report back anything I find.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:39 AM
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The original Autolite 1100 in my Mustang did the EXACT same thing. Car started fine, and ran perfectly- until it heated up- then it would stall at stops, but start right back up. I tinkered with this and that- including the choke- and finally just purchased a freshly rebuilt 1100, and the problem was immediately gone.

My guess is it needs a rebuild, but one other thing that bears checking is the float level. If the float is set too low, you won't have a lot of fuel in the bowl. Since the pickup tube is in the back of the bowl, when you hit your brakes the fuel sloshes forward and the pickup tube sucks air- starving the engine.

Good luck!
'65 Coupe, Silver Smoke Gray, Std Red Interior, ENGINE: 200ci inline six, Offy 3x1 intake, HEI ignition, Classic Inlines dual header; TRANSMISSION: T5 5 speed, 3.55 8" rear; MISC: Chockostang front disc conversion, dual master, MB "Old School" 15" wheels
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 09:39 PM
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First step is to check for vacuum leaks then toss a vacuum gauge on to a manifold vacuum source and evaluate the readings. You could have carburetor issues or it could also be a SCV (spark control valve) or distributor spark advance diaphragm issue.


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